When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Now that the center console and the headlights are complete, I'm starting some new projects. I pulled one of the second row bucket seats and bench when I installed the futon, but I kept knocking my knee on the mounts. I was able with two pairs of vise grips to pull one of the Torx from the bracket, took it to the parts shop and it's a T55. It was a bugger to remove on account of the corrosion but once I got the bit the other three came out pretty quickly. I tried this bit on the bench seat brackets but they were too tight even with a 2 ft. cheater. The bit is only a 3/8 drive and those mounting bolts have rubber bushings preventing penetrating oil from getting to the threads. I'll work at it some more later.
Also I ran the ground line behind the plastic left side bulkheads and it hid slick as you please. I ran it under the door and the door gasket is thick enough not to pinch the wire. Now I just have to solder the wiring up and install the backup alarm.
I had a similar experience with those pesky seat bracket bolts, they were such a PITA I left the rearmost set in since I was covering them with the bed platform.
From what I recall they are exposed to a lot of road spray from underneath. I think you can see the threads on a few of them from the underside if you wanted to try some oil from there.
I believe the bolts I used to secure 2x4 to the floor were 12mmx70mm fine thread if you plan on using any of the holes for mounting other things.
I can dig that Zodberg, I'm just about to take another whack at it today. I wish those T55 bits came in 1/2 drive, them I could really use torque. I'll post progress later today. Take 'er easy.
Got 'em out, it seems that following pulling the mid seats I bumped the ratchet and in my haste was tightening (lefty loosey, righty tighty) the bolts by mistake. I still had to use a cheater, but after several turns I got 'em out. My plan is to clean the bolts up, chase the threads and heavily douse them in dielectric grease before using them to plug the mounting holes. Or perhaps finding a smaller threaded bolt and coat it with gasket sealer, liquid electrical tape or something, that way the bolts will be readily available if I can ever sell/give away the seats.
In the meantime I completed running the ground wire out the back so maybe tomorrow that backup alarm is going in.
This was a one time use for me so I couldn't justify paying a premium for this Torx, normally when I buy tools to keep I go with SK, Craftsman, Proto or Snapon but now that I'm 10 months on furlough, my tool purchases have dwindled.
Firstly today I got the new tags on, I'd forgotten about them since the pandemic, ODOT sent me a window sticker that expired 5 months ago, my bad. I was intending on wiring the backup alarm power to the trailer plug on the rear bumper as I did on 'Easy bake' the wiring is wrapped much better though. I tried un mounting the bracket but whomever installed the 'Hidden Hitch' used non stainless steel hardware and the nut is out of sight so I'm going to try again tomorrow using needle nose vise grips and a mirror.
Just backing up a few posts to remind you DIY's Ford seat bolts tend with Torx head fasteners tend to require driver bits with the PLUS designation. While a normal T55 might fit the PLUS versions won't strip the recesses.
HAH~Some progress, got the Hidden hitch trailer plug dismounted, they're a mainstream company I don't know why they didn't use stainless hardware. I was at last able to manipulate the needle nose vise grips onto the nuts and extract the mount. The screw and nuts were thoroughly corroded by 22 years of exposure to the elements. I found that the wire wrap was abraded and so exposing more wire I think I was able to isolate the yellow backup light wire. EDIT wrong wire it's the central purple wire in the plug. Dang~! At that moment my multimeter failed.
No worries I have a backup multimeter, this old one has taken lots of abuse over the years. I'm going to verify that yellow wire tomorrow and tie the positive wire of the alarm to it. Then it should be good to go and then I can focus on the Hella Jumbo fog lights.
What in somewhat modern trailer plugs from Hidden Hitch
the central connection is supposed to be the circuit for backup lights, on mine it was not present, so unlike my easier tap to the trailer plug on my '81 I ran the connection from the wiring of the backup light on the van. I pierced the rubber boot and ran 12 gauge to it and got good continuity, so tomorrows' plan is to reassemble the Hidden Hitch plug and mount up the alarm.
When it came to the mounting of the horn itself I got some stainless hardware given the state of the nuts and bolts holding the trailer plug. Reassembled and drilled in steps for the horn mount, broke one drill bit, luckily I have two sets but need to augment some individual bits. Can't see purchasing an entire new set. Stripped the end of one of the bolts so another day of delay, kind of becoming used to setbacks on this van. I sure do miss my '81
Before getting 'Strayhound I tried to find another but there were none to be found when we were shopping
I would miss that 81 too! That is a very nice looking van for an 81. My mom is no longer driving but she wont part with her 1978 shorty which is sitting under the carport wit a lot of surface rust now because it is never in the sun.
Well I completed the wiring and drilled the bumper and mounted the alarm, tested it and it works as well as the switch to turn it off when I'm backing up at home as I don't like disturbing the neighbors (I wish they'd extend me the same courtesy) The horn was disappointing as what I thought was my old backup alarm was actually a theft alarm horn tweet tweet.
So today I begin the search for the backup alarm horn, I have the old switch so I'm thinking I have the horn somewhere.
Well, I broke down and purchased a new 97db backup alarm. I puchased it from the Napaonline site and was suprised that this Balkamp Backup Alarm was only $32 clams. The same one at the store was $71!
I'll wire it in tomorrow if I have time.
The reason behind installing this is on Easy Bake (my black panel above) I had the same alarm and in a busy and tight Target parking lot I was backing up with the alarm blaring and my hazards on. (I'm a commercial driver so it's my habit) and I saw a small sedan behind me backing up at the same time. I stopped but she backed right into my van. It would've been an insurance mess on account in Oregon the driver in the rear is labelled at the one 'at fault.' It was that alarm that saved my insurance from paying a claim and subsequently jacking my premium.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.