swapping 5.0 for 5.0 in 88 f250- two issues:

1. just an alarming amount of electronic disconnects!- has anyone seen a good protocol for going about the process?- have labeled everything and taken plenty of photos - should i disconnect fuel rails and all attached electronics before pulling old block to make things easier?- any other hints

2. having a horrible time with fuel line disconnects- have the right tool- have pb blasted the fittings- good insertion for tool but no results!- hours now! - is there any reason why i cant cut the fuel line at the fitting and then just slide the line over the barbs when new engine goes in?

thanks for any advice

 

1. Labelling everything is generally your best bet.

2. If you like having the hoses blow off the barbs, go right ahead. These aren't real super high pressure lines, but I wouldn't trust just jamming them on there, even with clamps.

 

nobody wants a hose coming loose- but cant quite figure what is holding fuel line presently other than the barbs!- if i have to spend much more time trying to disconnect the "quick disconnects" i guess i might find out

 

What year is the donor motor? If it's anything other than another '88 truck motor the wiring harness won't be compatible so the best plan of attack is to remove the upper intake on both motors, disconnect all the electrical devices and lay all that back out of the way in the engine bay. Remove all wiring from the donor motor and bolt it in, then reconnect all the wiring.

The fuel line disconnects can be a bitch, with the tool inserted try pressing the junction together before pulling on it, that usually gets it moving and then it will let go.

 

I've got a tool, I think from Snapon (I can't remember, and I'm not near my toolbox), that is like pliers that push the little fingertrap together, and grab the hose and pull on it, that work great. But I'll be damned if I even know if they make them anymore, and if they did, they're probably not worth it for somebody to use once.

 

I have the metal tool, I filed down where it is supposed to push the spring outwards, to help it get under spring. But you still have to try and push lines together, as you try to push tool, in, , royal PITA

 

Electrically, nothing is easier than undoing those 4 connectors on the driver side inner fenderwell and pulling the engine with the harness still installed on the engine. Swap the engine harness over with both engines out of the vehicle and reinstall the new engine. Hook up those same 4 connectors and you are done. Couldn't be simpler.

 

You could just tie the fuel rails back close to firewall and not bother disconnecting. Should be enough room. I swapped heads without pulling fuel rail off.
Just be carful not to get it caught while pulling and replacing motor.

 

unfortunately, i only have a long block coming my way..... so plenty of broken 32 year old plastic tabs and selective profanity as i separate donor from harness

 

like that idea!- realized as i started this that all prior swaps were all carbed- fuel injection sure complicates the process!

 

yep- i bought the plastic tool since it was all they had and filed it down, too- it slips in fine but i will be damned if i can get it loose

 

I have 3 sets of release tools, the white plastic on a rail, spring loaded snap overs & the scissor tool. Not a big expenditure to have them all.

Some work when the others don't. Best thing is lots of WD-40 or PB- Blaster on the spring + compressed air, followed by carb or brake cleaner + compressed air, then another shot of WD-40.

 

I'm going to agree with everyone else. It's hard to do with two hands. I usually slip the tool in and hold in with decent pressure with my thumb and pointer finger, while holding the male side of the line with the other fingers. Then with my other hand, and fingers not pressing tool in, push the two connectors further into each other before pulling apart. Trick is to push together and pull apart without releasing pressure on the tool. Idk if that makes sense. But I tried. Also wiggling the lines when you push together and pull apart tends to help separate the difficult ones.

And finally, I may be wrong, but I've come across a fair number of fuel connections that are black, and out of the female side is a colored plastic piece, with tabs 180 degrees from each other. Pinch those towards each other and separate the connection.

 

Make sure you pull the fittings in a direction that lets your knuckles slam into something hard and sharp when the fittings come apart. That always works for me.

 

They call them 'quick disconnect' for a reason.
First, make sure fuel is bled off, you don't want to pull them apart with fuel pressure.
If your holding the two fuel lines, where the tool goes on the right side, into and under the flare on the left side:
- holding the left side, push the tool in from the right, as far as it will go
- pushing the tool and right side fuel line, towards the left, usually you will feel it 'click' as it goes under the springs
- then, let go of the tool, and pull on the right side fuel line
They should release in less time it takes to read this.

If the tools inner diameter is not tight on the fuel lines outer diameter, your tool is too big, you need a smaller one.
If the tools inner diameter binds on the fuel line, and will not close all the way, your tool is too small, and you need a bigger one.
I have two complete sets, as one brand fits differently than the other. Some tools are for A/C lines, some are for fuel lines, some tools are specifically for GM/Dodge.


Also, if it does not work first try, take tool out, and rotate a few degrees, and try again. Some tools have a gap, and sometime one spring finger will find that gap, and the line will not separate.