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Does this look right? Axle shift

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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 12:15 PM
  #31  
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From: Phelan CA
Originally Posted by h20camper
My 2017 OEM Service Manual states:

Tighten the new U-bolt nuts in a cross pattern in 4 stages.

F450/550
  • Stage 1: 74 lb.ft (100 Nm)
  • Stage 2: 148 lb.ft (200 Nm)
  • Stage 3: 221 lb.ft (300 Nm)
  • Stage 4: 295 lb.ft (400 Nm)
F250/350

SRW Vehicles:
  • Stage 1: 48 lb.ft (65 Nm)
  • Stage 2: 96 lb.ft (130 Nm)
  • Stage 3: 148 lb.ft (200 Nm)
  • Stage 4: 195 lb.ft (265 Nm)
DRW Vehicles:
  • Stage 1: 74 lb.ft (100 Nm)
  • Stage 2: 148 lb.ft (200 Nm)
  • Stage 3: 221 lb.ft (300 Nm)
  • Stage 4: 295 lb.ft (400 Nm)

There it is again.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #32  
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From: SW VA
Originally Posted by hobohilton
_______________________________

You have quoted this a few times:

People here don't understand that U bolts are a one time use item on these modern trucks. They are torque to yield.

Where are you getting this information?

Hobo
Legal mumbo-jumbo to cover their butts if something were to happen. Bed bolts are TTY and "one use only", yet every Line-X and Rhino Liner shop across the country reuses the stock bolts without issue. I've reused head bolts on engine rebuilds without issue. I've reused u-bolts on many other trucks without issue, flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, etc...
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 07:53 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
Legal mumbo-jumbo to cover their butts if something were to happen. Bed bolts are TTY and "one use only", yet every Line-X and Rhino Liner shop across the country reuses the stock bolts without issue. I've reused head bolts on engine rebuilds without issue. I've reused u-bolts on many other trucks without issue, flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, etc...
Exactly! And if it matters a very reputable machine shop that makes many front end parts as well as other suspension components that most of you are running told me when I was installing my traction bars that they reuse u-bolts all the time with no issues.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 07:08 AM
  #34  
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I have reused them in the past. Not a big deal. New bolts preferred but never went out of my way.

I have seen one or two that came completely out and I had to crow bar the axle and leaf springs about a foot.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 09:39 AM
  #35  
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Still dumbfounded about the recommendations here to take apart the rear suspension on what was described to be in a hard brake event.

This isn't a good way to diagnose problems, any mechanic worth their salt would concur.

Should we recommend to others to take apart the 6.7 manifolds, valve covers and remove injectors because they heard a ticking noise?






 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 12:39 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by DSLTRK60
Still dumbfounded about the recommendations here to take apart the rear suspension on what was described to be in a hard brake event.

This isn't a good way to diagnose problems, any mechanic worth their salt would concur.

Should we recommend to others to take apart the 6.7 manifolds, valve covers and remove injectors because they heard a ticking noise?
Im with you on this....inspecting to see if the pin is not sheared is one thing...and gettinig it to line back up is an even worse thing to try to do.....

me personally...if i heard a pop while towing and looked and found evidence of axle geometry change...it would be time to call road side and have some warranty work done.

proceed with caution

 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 12:46 PM
  #37  
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As I posted earlier, if the spring bolt broke you can tell just by checking the nut on thr top of the springs, no disassembly required.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 12:50 PM
  #38  
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I disassembled my 2010 to install some traction bars and every componet either has a female pin hole or a male pin. There’s more invoked here than just a leaf spring thru bolt.

my comments remain.

proceed with caution

 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 05:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DSLTRK60
Still dumbfounded about the recommendations here to take apart the rear suspension on what was described to be in a hard brake event.

This isn't a good way to diagnose problems, any mechanic worth their salt would concur.

Should we recommend to others to take apart the 6.7 manifolds, valve covers and remove injectors because they heard a ticking noise?
be dumbfounded all you want...........the original picture that the OP posted leaves the *APPEAREANCE* of the axle having moved. The title of the thread also leads a person this way. An axle that has shifted and sheared the center bolt requires disassembly to repair it. I am dumbfounded that one can come on here mid-stream and spew bull**** that he knows all.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 05:13 PM
  #40  
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Hell, I have made my own u-bolts when it was necessary to keep the rig running.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 05:27 PM
  #41  
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From: Phelan CA
Originally Posted by 99150
be dumbfounded all you want...........the original picture that the OP posted leaves the *APPEAREANCE* of the axle having moved. The title of the thread also leads a person this way. An axle that has shifted and sheared the center bolt requires disassembly to repair it. I am dumbfounded that one can come on here mid-stream and spew bull**** that he knows all.
^ Now that reads like someone's flustered.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 05:42 PM
  #42  
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From: Northwest
Originally Posted by 99150
Hell, I have made my own u-bolts when it was necessary to keep the rig running.
Yep, yep, yep 99150...... I'm with you.... I have been in the Pacific Northwest Forest, on a mountain top, middle of winter and it's getting dark and I need to get a loaded log truck down off that mountain and heading to the mill before it gets dark and snows..... I've used a 1" drive pull handle and a 6' cheater pipe to tighten U Bolts on an axle..... I think that owner / operator wore that trailer out before he ever messed with those U Bolts.... Field Service work is not for sissies.

Hobo
 
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