When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
People here don't understand that U bolts are a one time use item on these modern trucks. They are torque to yield.
Where are you getting this information?
Hobo
Legal mumbo-jumbo to cover their butts if something were to happen. Bed bolts are TTY and "one use only", yet every Line-X and Rhino Liner shop across the country reuses the stock bolts without issue. I've reused head bolts on engine rebuilds without issue. I've reused u-bolts on many other trucks without issue, flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, etc...
Legal mumbo-jumbo to cover their butts if something were to happen. Bed bolts are TTY and "one use only", yet every Line-X and Rhino Liner shop across the country reuses the stock bolts without issue. I've reused head bolts on engine rebuilds without issue. I've reused u-bolts on many other trucks without issue, flywheel bolts, clutch bolts, etc...
Exactly! And if it matters a very reputable machine shop that makes many front end parts as well as other suspension components that most of you are running told me when I was installing my traction bars that they reuse u-bolts all the time with no issues.
Still dumbfounded about the recommendations here to take apart the rear suspension on what was described to be in a hard brake event.
This isn't a good way to diagnose problems, any mechanic worth their salt would concur.
Should we recommend to others to take apart the 6.7 manifolds, valve covers and remove injectors because they heard a ticking noise?
Im with you on this....inspecting to see if the pin is not sheared is one thing...and gettinig it to line back up is an even worse thing to try to do.....
me personally...if i heard a pop while towing and looked and found evidence of axle geometry change...it would be time to call road side and have some warranty work done.
I disassembled my 2010 to install some traction bars and every componet either has a female pin hole or a male pin. There’s more invoked here than just a leaf spring thru bolt.
Still dumbfounded about the recommendations here to take apart the rear suspension on what was described to be in a hard brake event.
This isn't a good way to diagnose problems, any mechanic worth their salt would concur.
Should we recommend to others to take apart the 6.7 manifolds, valve covers and remove injectors because they heard a ticking noise?
be dumbfounded all you want...........the original picture that the OP posted leaves the *APPEAREANCE* of the axle having moved. The title of the thread also leads a person this way. An axle that has shifted and sheared the center bolt requires disassembly to repair it. I am dumbfounded that one can come on here mid-stream and spew bull**** that he knows all.
be dumbfounded all you want...........the original picture that the OP posted leaves the *APPEAREANCE* of the axle having moved. The title of the thread also leads a person this way. An axle that has shifted and sheared the center bolt requires disassembly to repair it. I am dumbfounded that one can come on here mid-stream and spew bull**** that he knows all.
Hell, I have made my own u-bolts when it was necessary to keep the rig running.
Yep, yep, yep 99150...... I'm with you.... I have been in the Pacific Northwest Forest, on a mountain top, middle of winter and it's getting dark and I need to get a loaded log truck down off that mountain and heading to the mill before it gets dark and snows..... I've used a 1" drive pull handle and a 6' cheater pipe to tighten U Bolts on an axle..... I think that owner / operator wore that trailer out before he ever messed with those U Bolts.... Field Service work is not for sissies.