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Based on my compression test results tomorrow, I may wind up just pulling the motor and doing a full rebuild of my motor so I can keep the thing forever. I can do the entire breakdown and reassembly myself, the only thing I have questions on is the machine work. What all do I need to ask the folks at the machine shop to do and what info do I need to provide them with?
The guys at the machine shop should be able to tell you everything they need from you way more than we can here. That is their livelihood. You can upgrade pistons, crank, etc, as well as valvetrain....but it's a rabbit hole if you let it be. If it were me, I wouldn't overthink it too much unless you were building a competition sled puller, which you aren't. Get a good rebuild kit from Riffraff Diesel and let the machine shop do the rest.
Post up your numbers when you do the test. Elevation has a lot to do with compression numbers and can provide false negatives. There is a member on here who went through this very thing. @Colorado350 can tell you all about it
The guys at the machine shop should be able to tell you everything they need form you way more than we can here. That is there livelihood. You can upgrade pistons, crank, etc, as well as valvetrain....but it's a rabbit hole if you let it be. If it were me, I wouldn't overthink it too much unless you were building a competition sled puller, which you aren't. get a good rebuild kit form Riffraff Diesel and et the machine shop do the rest.
Post up your numbers when you do the test. Elevation has a lot to do with compression numbers and can provide false negatives. There is a member on here who went through this very thing. @Colorado350 can tell you all about it
Thanks for the info! I’ll post the numbers in the next few days
The guys at the machine shop should be able to tell you everything they need form you way more than we can here. That is there livelihood. You can upgrade pistons, crank, etc, as well as valvetrain....but it's a rabbit hole if you let it be. If it were me, I wouldn't overthink it too much unless you were building a competition sled puller, which you aren't. get a good rebuild kit form Riffraff Diesel and et the machine shop do the rest.
Post up your numbers when you do the test. Elevation has a lot to do with compression numbers and can provide false negatives. There is a member on here who went through this very thing. @Colorado350 can tell you all about it
^^^ +1
Do a through background check on quality of workmanship and punctuality. I first took my engine to a local shop and had to pick it up 2 months later with a thick layer of dust on it. (The local stock car engines came first.) It wasn't touched. I took it to the machine shop that does the engine work for the local Cat dealer. In two weeks it was done and I could not have been more content with the job they did. That was two years ago and the engine is running great.
I researched internal engine modes. I would recommend having a TIG tack weld on all the oil spouts which cool the pistons and have a weld in dipstick bracket. I had the oil pump pickup tube welded also.
Rebuilding a 7.3 is a lot of work. Enjoy the experience and take lots of pictures.
Go ahead and assume you need all 16 valves replaced in the heads. Spend extra coin for at least Comp 910 springs or equivalent, shimmed to the correct installed height. Be silly not to do ARPs while it is all apart and may as well do Smith Bros pushrods or the like too. Injectors you can always upgrade easy enough later on as well as the pushrods...springs are not too fun in chassis. I have seen ARP main studs and rod bolts available too, I would at least consider things like this.
One of the other guys had his rotating assembly balanced. He showed how it was grossly out of balance stock. I would balance it all before ARP head studs as you can do those in chassis I read. The dually has a Fluidampr now and it is quite a bit smoother than with the old balancer.
If you plan on going BIG later you might as well look into a girdle as well. I'd see if you can pick up an extra block in decent shape and have them go through that. We don't have the same thin cylinder walls that the IDI 7.3's have so I think you'd be good with a .20 over bore and some de lipped pistons from Riff Raff and ARP everything.
So I ran my compression test finally today after rigging up a tester from Harbor Freight. The results were not pretty. Ran the test on a cold engine and ambient temp was 39*. So numbers are lower than on a warm engine, but still obviously not good.
So I ran my compression test finally today after rigging up a tester from Harbor Freight. The results were not pretty. Ran the test on a cold engine and ambient temp was 39*. So numbers are lower than on a warm engine, but still obviously not good.