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Guys, the output seal on our 52 build is leaking bad enough to need replacement. I think the driveshaft was so out of balance it ruined the seal. Any tips for doing this in the truck?
Same as doing it on a bench. Depending on your truck, remove the driveshaft and any yokes. Support the transmission and remove the bearing and seal retainer (transmission mount/stand). Pull the seal and put in the new one.
Make sure the bearing is sound. Often the seal goes because the bearing has excess play.
Usually there's no need to pull the retainer off on a LD 3-sp. Just pry the old seal out after removing the DS. If it's stubborn put a sheet metal screw into the face of the seal to pry against, or use a slide hammer with a screw point.
I made a crude puller using an old axle bearing retainer. I drilled 4 holes in the retainer and screwed it into the seal lip. I used a two jaw puller and it came right out. I did this on the spare bench transmission. Any concerns with this approach on the real transmission?
I made a crude puller using an old axle bearing retainer. I drilled 4 holes in the retainer and screwed it into the seal lip. I used a two jaw puller and it came right out. I did this on the spare bench transmission. Any concerns with this approach on the real transmission?
JB
That's a slick trick! I had to take the rear bearing retainer off my trans and beat the hell out of the old seal, from the inside, to get it out.
You're probably aware of this, but one point worth mentioning is that if you did take the retainer off, you'd need to be careful that the output shaft and rear bearing don't slide out. Otherwise there's a good chance the synchros can pop out of place... which can't be repaired without pulling the trans, as far as I know...
One thing that concerns me on this approach is the pressure the puller has on the rear bearing. Thoughts on that? I could use my three jaw slide hammer on the crude puller but afraid the jarring will just pull the screws through instead of the steady pull the two jaw has.
One thing that concerns me on this approach is the pressure the puller has on the rear bearing. Thoughts on that? I could use my three jaw slide hammer on the crude puller but afraid the jarring will just pull the screws through instead of the steady pull the two jaw has.
JB
Good point... All the pressure should get put onto the clip that holds the rear bearing from pushing into the case. I guess as long as the seal isn't too old and crusty, the clip should be fine. How hard was it to pull the seal out on the bench?
Good point... All the pressure should get put onto the clip that holds the rear bearing from pushing into the case. I guess as long as the seal isn't too old and crusty, the clip should be fine. How hard was it to pull the seal out on the bench?
pretty easy once it strarted. I am going to try the slide hammer first.
I attached the homemade tool last night and tried the 3 jaw slide hammer first, no go. Used the two jaw puller and it came right out. I used the bearing retainer / hammer to install the new seal along with a little permatex aviation on the edge. Took it out for a test drive today and it solved the leak.
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I use one of these on most seals, works great 