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I have a 1977 Custom with 302 2v, T-18, non AC, man. brakes, PS, non CA. I have the one piece clutch adjusting rod. I have too much play at the top of the clutch, but the adjusting rod is maxed out. I don't yet have to push the clutch through the floor, but it doesn't engage soon enough. Does this mean my clutch will soon need to be replaced? Thanks guys
We have the same adjuster on ours. Replace your linkage rod bushings and see if the helps. Ours were completely gone giving a decent amount of lag before Z-bar engagement.
Here is how the adjusting rod connects to the Z-bar.
Thanks, John. This is the assembly I have. I definitely will check bushings. As I said in my first post, if the nuts are on the end farthest from the tip, there is no more adjustment to be made? Is this correct? Should I replace the return spring while I'm at it?
I've adjusted so many clutches I forget which ones use what hook up. if it's that style then yes the farther the nuts are from the fork the less pedal slack you should have. if you're out of rod then you either have the wrong rod or you have so much wear in your linkage it's requiring the rod to be excessively long. check your Z bar bushings as well as all your rod ends and the holes they go into all the way to the pedal. it's also possible someone put the wrong fork in or that it's bent. look and see if it's straight .
If that checks out then get or make a longer rod and see how it works. I always put a nut on each side of the pivot block rather than jamming them together. that way if your spring jumps off or breaks you don't loose your adjuster somewhere behind you on the highway.
It's not impossible your clutch isn't going. but it would be in the pressure plate not the disc wearing, that makes the rod shorter. I'd consider that after everything else checks out.
Thanks 440! From what I can tell, the clutch adjustment rod on my zbar threads through the pivot block. I haven't taken it apart to verify. As far as putting in a longer rod, is there a limit? I mean am I risking damaging an otherwise functioning clutch system? I definitely will check out bushings and washers. Should I look into clutch return spring, or is that just what returns the pedal to the top?
As long as the geometry is somewhat acceptable so it works correctly there's no reason you can't lengthen the rod out. my concern would be more about why you need to, has something bent or worn so bad it needs fixed? or it's also possible someone replaced your adjuster and it's too short in the first place. after 45 years a lot of crazy and downright dumb things have happened to these vehicles so take nothing for granted.
Your set-up is just like mine.....
I have the same adjusting rod as you do.
If you are going to change to the other shown above, you will need to add a stud to the "Z bar lever" to connect the open end of the rod to.
If you have run out of adjustment, there has to be something else wrong.....
Only other place there is a transfer rod is the rod from the pedal lever that comes thru the floor to the other side of the "Z bar".
Maybe check to see if it is the correct length....
That would be easier that changing a clutch and pressure plate.
Thanks for the info! Pardon my ignorance. I was led to believe one adjusted the clutch rod as clutch plate wore? If that's true, and my adjuster is maxed out, that's why I was wondering if the clutch is on the way out. So I probably have a rear main seal leak. Also, I am planning to replace my speedo drive gear. I also have to replace the differential seal. So I wanted to gather information about the clutch as obviously I would replace it if I need to when I'm that far into things. If the clutch adjuster rod is about 8 inches, mine is the right length.
If you are in there far enough and can do it NOW, go ahead and replace the clutch and pressure plate.
I got a kit from O'Riley that had it all.... including the line up tool for the clutch plate. seems like it was a couple of hundred bucks or so.
Better to do it now than to pull the engine or transmission and do it later.
Yep, that is about the length of that rod. So yours is right.
As your clutch wears you shorten the rod to keep it off the throw out bearing. so your rod being too short is the opposite of a disc wearing down.
As your disc wears your clutch fingers on the pressure plate move closer to the flywheel which pushes your arm forward , requiring you to shorten the rod.
I suspect your problem is due to worn linkage or bushings, bent parts or the wrong parts . not disc wear.
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