Thanks...Unfortunately, I don't have much history on the pickup. I bought it last spring from an old farmer's widow. She didn't know much about it. She said it would "run and drive." Well, it started, but I had to trailer it to get it to my uncle who rebuilt the carb. and replaced the heater fan. Then I was able to drive it. I wish he lived closer because he's a wizard when it comes to anything mechanical. I've done a bunch of fixing,(new rear brakes, new back glass, new radiator mounts, a bunch of rewiring (still not done) new rear shocks, new door hinges, new bench upholstery junkyard scavenging for OEM when I can find it).... but my process has kinda been all over the map instead of focusing on one system at a time. Plus of course there's always the budget to consider. I have a bunch of drive line stuff to do, so like I said, I'm gathering info.(thanks to the awesome guys like yourself on this forum) and buying parts that I'll need for the clutch. There's just too much travel toward the floor before the clutch is engaged. I won't post again on this thread until I have new information. (Maybe members reading this aren't all too keen on updates!)

 

You may or may not be able to tell by shaking the parts but I think its best to remove the parts.
Its just the long rod from pedal to Z bar and the Z bar from frame & motor.
If they are good then put them back in, if not then they are out now for repair.

When I took the truck for a test drive before I bought it the clutch felt good.
It was not till I pulled the truck all apart for a full on rebuild did I find what was pictured.
Then when I turned to my parts truck I found the same parts just as bad.

As for the fork I would not mess with it and leave it in place.
I say this because trying to get the throw out bearing to clip back on the fork and be a PITA
But that just me.
Dave ----

 

Where does this bushing go?

 

Both ends of the Z bar. normally there will be a wire clip holding them in.

 

In addition to this stuff?

 

No, that's another version of the same thing.

My '76 V8 uses the first one you pictured. not sure about the 6 cylinder .

 

UGH! when I do a search, both sets come up. I thought the 2 piece bushing was for older stuff. I guess I'll buy both and hope there are at least remnants of one or the other in my z bar to see which style to use. Thanks again!

 

I got those parts as well as 40-4424 bushings for the upper and lower ends of the clutch rod from LMC.

It straightened up the Z bar and tightened up the pedal travel. Total cost was about 30.00.

LMC also lists the one piece clutch release rod.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-79-for...ase-components

 

Thanks, John. What bushings did you buy, the 2 piece, or the 3 piece kit?

 

The 6 piece set up. I had to order them individually.

2 felt washers
2 bushings
2 retainer clips

Plus the 40-4424 bushings I listed above.

I'll try to snap some pictures tomorrow.

The original bushings that go inside the Z bar were wallowed out. It was causing the Z -bar to sit out of
alignment.

I see that you have a 302 so the motor pivot Part 11 in the diagram is available. (I don't think it is available for our 300, but luckily both of ours were still good.)

Also check the hole where the clutch rod attaches to see if it is too far out of round. Ours wasn't too bad and the new bushing took most of it out.

I have seen where some people have welded up the hole and re-drilled it for a better fit.

If don't have to drive your truck, pull it apart and check to see what parts you need and plan any repairs.

 

 

Thank you so much for the pics...they are very helpful! So on the rod that goes through the floor, where that connects to the z bar, there is a "wave" washer on both sides, correct? Would a bushing in that hole be better, or bushing and wave washers? Thanks for you advice! Also, do you have the one piece adjusting rod or the 2-piece with the "crayon"?

 

If you zoom in on the 2nd picture you should see a white plastic bushing on the end of the rod. There is also one in the cab where the rod mounts to the pedal assembly.

I didn't have any wave washers there. Just a spring clip on the outside.

replacing those helped take out some of the slack.

I have the one piece adjusting rod.

 

UPDATE--Been a while, but it's springtime in ND! With my sons' help, we pushed "Ginger" into the garage. Jacked up the rear end. Removed rear drive shaft. Addressed the pinion seal leak. Discovered my pinion nut was much too loose. (Torque to 180 ft/lbs???) Removed carrier bearing; seems to be good. All U-joints seem good. Bought transmission jack. Removed T18 and 2nd drive shaft. Getting tailpiece off was a bear. Confirmed my speedo drive gear is shot. FYI it's the brown, 8 tooth drive gear. Removed bell housing and found my clutch problem: my pivot lever was snapped off at the rivets!! Was able to pop the sheared rivets out and luckily there's a bolt on fix. Also discovered my pressure plate had been replaced with a "remanufactured" one. Clutch disc seemed ok. I believe my very minor oil leak seems to be coming from the top (valve covers or manifold). Took apart my z-bar assembly. Discovered engine side mount was bad (grooved and loose). Ordered speedo drive gear and engine side z-bar pivot (it bolts into the bell housing.) Also discovered the teeth of my flywheel ring gear are bad. Will replace. Need to check teeth of starter. Having a blast and am excited to finally figure out my clutch problems. I really don't mind discovering other issues while everything is apart. Thanks so much guys!