2005 excursion No Crank No Start Intermitted Problem
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New User
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Mpls/St. Paul Area
2005 excursion No Crank No Start Intermitted Problem
Hi to all,
Have 2005 Excursion (AKA The Dobie Limo) it has done this on and off since I have owned it. start drive go to somewhere turn off no problem. Now here is what happens from time to time. Go to start and all the lights light up hit the starter and nothing. Sometimes let it sit for a bit starts right up. Had dealership reprogram the PATS worked fine and low and behold it doing it again. Of course it is acting up when it is 17 degrees out and not in the garage. Here is my Question after seeing a few things on youtube. Could it be the Fuel Pump Mod like they have on the F series were it corrodes up and breaks the circuit board causing to back feed power to the ECM. Does the Excursion have this part and where would it be located at? Also I just found out that if you hold the odometer reset an then turn on the ignition switch you have a self test and code reader with a whole lot of info but where do you find the info to decide what you are reading? This little feature works for all ford products from late 90s and up if it has digital odometer.
Thanks to all
Bob
Have 2005 Excursion (AKA The Dobie Limo) it has done this on and off since I have owned it. start drive go to somewhere turn off no problem. Now here is what happens from time to time. Go to start and all the lights light up hit the starter and nothing. Sometimes let it sit for a bit starts right up. Had dealership reprogram the PATS worked fine and low and behold it doing it again. Of course it is acting up when it is 17 degrees out and not in the garage. Here is my Question after seeing a few things on youtube. Could it be the Fuel Pump Mod like they have on the F series were it corrodes up and breaks the circuit board causing to back feed power to the ECM. Does the Excursion have this part and where would it be located at? Also I just found out that if you hold the odometer reset an then turn on the ignition switch you have a self test and code reader with a whole lot of info but where do you find the info to decide what you are reading? This little feature works for all ford products from late 90s and up if it has digital odometer.
Thanks to all
Bob
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 672
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From: Tampa, FL
Hi Bob, first thing we'll need to know is the engine you've got in her. If I'm reading it right, you're turning the key and getting nothing? Do the gauges all go full tilt when you do that? Do you hear a click of any kind like the starter is trying to engage?
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From: Mpls/St. Paul Area
Hi Scott,
It is a 2005 V10 with 287k on it. Gauges do not sweep but when I turn it to the start position I have a relay clicking in fuse block next to column. I have switched relays around but no changes. This thing has had a intermittent problem that started just after I bought it but it may have been doing it longer than that. It has done it all 4 seasons so I don't believe it is weather or temp. related. I have tried both keys that I have and both do the same. I have not crawled under it to checkout to see if I am getting power on the solenoid wire on the starter just waiting for a friend to come over and help (2 man job). while I am down there I will be getting voltages for the stater circuit. If there is anything else I should check let me know. I am just at a lost with this computer junk. I can do anything else on this as I am a former Ford tech from the 70s and 80s. got out of wrenching before all the computer stuff came out.
Thanks for the help
Bob
It is a 2005 V10 with 287k on it. Gauges do not sweep but when I turn it to the start position I have a relay clicking in fuse block next to column. I have switched relays around but no changes. This thing has had a intermittent problem that started just after I bought it but it may have been doing it longer than that. It has done it all 4 seasons so I don't believe it is weather or temp. related. I have tried both keys that I have and both do the same. I have not crawled under it to checkout to see if I am getting power on the solenoid wire on the starter just waiting for a friend to come over and help (2 man job). while I am down there I will be getting voltages for the stater circuit. If there is anything else I should check let me know. I am just at a lost with this computer junk. I can do anything else on this as I am a former Ford tech from the 70s and 80s. got out of wrenching before all the computer stuff came out.
Thanks for the help
Bob
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,664
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From: Northwest
Bob,
Perhaps you should get another Ford relay (New) and just start rotating it through the relay box and see if the issue changes. I understand you have rotated existing relays around. Perhaps determine which relay is clicking when you try to start it and see what function that relay performs.
Hobo
Perhaps you should get another Ford relay (New) and just start rotating it through the relay box and see if the issue changes. I understand you have rotated existing relays around. Perhaps determine which relay is clicking when you try to start it and see what function that relay performs.
Hobo
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From: Mpls/St. Paul Area
Hi Hobo
Will give that a try also I just got the Ford Factory Repair Manual CD and will be looking that over for test procedures for no crank no start. Was told that it could be the fuel pump module back by the gas tank I was told that if they get corroded that they can short out and cause this kind of issue. I will keep you informed when I get things check out what I found.
Thanks again
Bob
Will give that a try also I just got the Ford Factory Repair Manual CD and will be looking that over for test procedures for no crank no start. Was told that it could be the fuel pump module back by the gas tank I was told that if they get corroded that they can short out and cause this kind of issue. I will keep you informed when I get things check out what I found.
Thanks again
Bob
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
1. Your truck does not have an FPDM.
2. Your PATS system does not have a starter interlock and cannot cause a "no crank" symptom.
3. Do not randomly futz around with the relays in the box, doing so only confuses things, especially if you did not mark them first.
4. Leave the odometer reset switch alone, it won't tell you anything useful.
The starter circuit is a simple one: Ignition switch > F31 > DTR switch > Starter relay (energizes). The starter relay, when energized, supplies power to the starter motor solenoid to energize it. Nothing computerized about the system, it's pretty "old school".
So, does the starter relay in the fuse box click (or not) when the key is turned from RUN to OFF? You need to determine which half of the circuit is or isn't working.
Have you crawled under the truck and inspected the wiring connections at the starter motor? The small trigger wire from the starter relay has a nasty habit of corroding off and requiring replacement. Ford has a repair kit for that issue, if found.
2. Your PATS system does not have a starter interlock and cannot cause a "no crank" symptom.
3. Do not randomly futz around with the relays in the box, doing so only confuses things, especially if you did not mark them first.
4. Leave the odometer reset switch alone, it won't tell you anything useful.
The starter circuit is a simple one: Ignition switch > F31 > DTR switch > Starter relay (energizes). The starter relay, when energized, supplies power to the starter motor solenoid to energize it. Nothing computerized about the system, it's pretty "old school".
So, does the starter relay in the fuse box click (or not) when the key is turned from RUN to OFF? You need to determine which half of the circuit is or isn't working.
Have you crawled under the truck and inspected the wiring connections at the starter motor? The small trigger wire from the starter relay has a nasty habit of corroding off and requiring replacement. Ford has a repair kit for that issue, if found.
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From: Mpls/St. Paul Area
Hi Project SHO89,
No I haven't really had a chance to check it out and of course now the weather just got nasty Blizzard conditions so we will have to hold off. hopefully I will be able to get someone to help me get it in the garage so we can chack things out but as you know the thing is a tank so that is no easy task. will do what you suggested and let you know what I find out.
Thanks
Bob
No I haven't really had a chance to check it out and of course now the weather just got nasty Blizzard conditions so we will have to hold off. hopefully I will be able to get someone to help me get it in the garage so we can chack things out but as you know the thing is a tank so that is no easy task. will do what you suggested and let you know what I find out.
Thanks
Bob
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 610
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From: NE Kansas
Hi Project SHO89,
No I haven't really had a chance to check it out and of course now the weather just got nasty Blizzard conditions so we will have to hold off. hopefully I will be able to get someone to help me get it in the garage so we can chack things out but as you know the thing is a tank so that is no easy task. will do what you suggested and let you know what I find out.
Thanks
Bob
No I haven't really had a chance to check it out and of course now the weather just got nasty Blizzard conditions so we will have to hold off. hopefully I will be able to get someone to help me get it in the garage so we can chack things out but as you know the thing is a tank so that is no easy task. will do what you suggested and let you know what I find out.
Thanks
Bob
I don't have the loose shifter bracket issue. That was my issue before though.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 610
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From: NE Kansas
Looking like solenoid. Funny thing is after removing the wires and cleaning up a bit it worked. Then when I went to put it into the garage it stopped again. Shorting the 2 terminals turns the starter. 12v is at the small terminal when key on "start".