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Go with your gut feeling and which ever decision gives you peace.
I bought my truck 8 years ago for $9,200 with 200,000 miles. I have about $6,000 into it, but I can and do travel long distance towing a 5th wheel and getting 11 - 13 MPG's hand calculated while doing so.
These trucks can be reliable, but they can also be costly. When something breaks or I have an issue come up, I just remind myself that what I am dealing with is better than a $1,000 a month payment.
The right truck will come along. I looked and waited a year to find mine and still drove 600 miles one way to buy it. Keep us updated!
288k miles and needing "some" work is not bad if you get it for the right price.
Mine had 285 and needed ball joints, tie rods, hub bearings, bushings all around, leaf springs, shocks, leaks fixed in the valley, tires and wheels (ones on it had the wrong offset and rubbed badly).
It now runs great and is dependable, especially with other upgrades done just for dependability.
Did all the work myself or cost would have been too much to make it worth while(my opinion)
Just don't pay to much up front and make sure the bones are solid.
288k miles and needing "some" work is not bad if you get it for the right price.
Mine had 285 and needed ball joints, tie rods, hub bearings, bushings all around, leaf springs, shocks, leaks fixed in the valley, tires and wheels (ones on it had the wrong offset and rubbed badly).
It now runs great and is dependable, especially with other upgrades done just for dependability.
Did all the work myself or cost would have been too much to make it worth while(my opinion)
Just don't pay to much up front and make sure the bones are solid.
I am seriously thinking about going back and giving it a solid shakedown after he gets it diagnosed. Definitely gonna need some front end components, tires, and whatever to fix the dead cylinder. What would you consider to be a good price?
Also, what would I be looking at for the valley oil leak repairs? Is it nessacary to fix?
What would you consider to be a good price?
Also, what would I be looking at for the valley oil leak repairs? Is it nessacary to fix?
any number of items that can leak in the valley- oil and fuel. I guess if it doesn't bother you to have a few drips under the truck then repair is not absolutely necessary. I'm sure there are many 7.3s out there with leaks that are running just fine.
I'm anul about leaks and won't have drips and stains in my driveway. I deleted the EBPV and replaced the ICP due to leaks. Also rebuilt the fuel bowl. My valley is bone dry, at this time
My truck was not leak free when I got it and I wouldn't consider that a reason to reject it. Just know it will add to the amount of work to be done to get an older truck where you want it.
I think you've been given some good advice on price already. Start somewhere below the $7500 and see what happens but wouldn't go much above that.
This truck is starting to look like a total bust...
Why?
Becouse he does everything by himself?
Engine oil interval is too long with 10K but he has done some things..
I've seen member(s) here,who has not change oil to the tranny in hundreds of Kmiles..
And lets take a 12 valve 5.9 Cummins,it's notorious for leaking oil all over the place and has the KDP(killer dowel pin).Which will cause a catastrophic engine failure, if hasn't been fixed..
Those things are irrelevant becouse the engine base is solid as can be,just like with 7.3..
Mileage is irrelevant in these engines.
I bought my van with 470K miles in it.
It's been a couple of years and now it has 511K in it.
Yes,several thousands has been spend on basic mainteinance and upgrades..
Why?
Becouse he does everything by himself?
Engine oil interval is too long with 10K but he has done some things..
I've seen member(s) here,who has not change oil to the tranny in hundreds of Kmiles..
And lets take a 12 valve 5.9 Cummins,it's notorious for leaking oil all over the place and has the KDP(killer dowel pin).Which will cause a catastrophic engine failure, if hasn't been fixed..
Those things are irrelevant becouse the engine base is solid as can be,just like with 7.3..
Mileage is irrelevant in these engines.
I bought my van with 470K miles in it.
It's been a couple of years and now it has 511K in it.
Yes,several thousands has been spend on basic mainteinance and upgrades..
I've been told lack of oil changes are the biggest killer of a PSD. That was the main reason... the 10k interval scared me.
You will have to find a seller that wants to sell. If they are asking over market value and won't budge, they don't want to sell and you need to move on.
Long oil change intervals have a potential to destroy the oil side of the injector. The variables are what brand/type of oil, towing/empty mileage, short trips/hot shot, and lab testing.
I've been told lack of oil changes are the biggest killer of a PSD. That was the main reason... the 10k interval scared me.
If you have your oil analysed & the results are good, 10k is entirely possible, I could get away with it according to my results but I tend to just do it annually at around 8k. I generally have to add a couple of quarts between changes.
If the seller can't provide something to backup the less frequent changes, walk away.
I wouldn't pay a dime over $5k, but with a "dead cylinder" and the lack of care. I'd move on....in fact, I would run......fast....and far. I have owned two of those "sat for a while" or "babied and driven sparingly". That is a nightmare I never want to relive.
I scanned in your area last night. Holy cow, what are people drinking out there. I thought northern pa was high. Apparently my centurion is worth like 45k where you are at lol
I scanned in your area last night. Holy cow, what are people drinking out there. I thought northern pa was high. Apparently my centurion is worth like 45k where you are at lol
Must be something in the water I guess
Now you see why I was even entertaining the thought of 10k for this truck
Seller told me last night he would work down the price to offset tires and for repair of whatever the misfire issue is.
If I cannot work him down to at least 8 I guess I'll be walking
Cole94, you have and will get a wide range of advice. If you are not in a hurry, walk away and take your time finding the right truck.
1st world problems are great problems to have sir!
I appreciate all the advice so far, really was eye-opening as to how fast I was ready to jump on this truck...
As I said in the previous post, if I cannot work him down to 8k, or if the injectors are what have failed, Ill be walking
Pull up the plastic door thresholds inside the cab, see how much rust is in the troughs.
Those cab lights do not appear to be OEM. They look like aftermarket cab lights from the photo presented. As such, the curvature of the plastic bases may or may not quite mate with the curvature of the roof skin sheet metal, and the after the fact installer may or may not have painted the raw edges of the holes drilled for the lights. Water runs down hill, so if you find standing water or lots of corrosion in the troughs, you might have more bargaining power, or more confidence in the body integrity. Either way, you can't lose by checking.