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Identifying the correct clutch

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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 01:20 PM
  #1  
Patrick Beal's Avatar
Patrick Beal
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Identifying the correct clutch

Hi All,

I need help figuring out the correct clutch for an engine swap I have to do.

After my old 1984 351w (E3AE- 6015-BA 20)
died that was in a 1986 f-150 short chassis and I believe driveline.

I got a 1979 351 W (casting # D9AE-6015-ED 12)

I have a NP-435 (C 13894) transmission.

The bell housing I have is stamped C5TA 6394 A

the old clutch was toast. And the flywheel was an incorrect flywheel for a Cleveland motor (old owner told me) and always engaged with a shutter.

after new clutch installed and get everything back together the clutch would not disengage.

when I took apart I noticed

The clutch kit I ordered is to large and was rubbing against bell housing.

the flywheel I got is AMS 167735

Flywheel Type Solid
Pressure Plate Bolt Circle (IN) 11.375
Dowel Pin Size (in) 0
FLAT OR STEP Flat
PRESSURE PLATE BOLT PATTERN Other
DOWEL PIN LOCATION No dowel pin
Crank Center Hole Diameter (in) 1.752
Crank Bolt Circle Diameter (in) 3
NUMBER OF CRANK HOLES 6
Crank Bolt Hole Size (in) 0.45
Counter Bore Depth (in) 0.5500
Pressure Plate Bolt Hole thread size 3/8 x 16 Number of Teeth 164
Ring Gear OD (in) 14.25

the clutch I got is AMS 07031

Pressure Plate Size (in) 11
Disc Size (in) 11.000 X 1.063 X 10T
Disc Type Organic
Clutch Cover Type Diaphragm style
Includes Slave Cylinder No
Includes Flywheel No
Upgrade Hp Rating N/A
Clutch Kit Type Standard Replacement

the clutch that came off of it was a 10”.

If I replaced the 11” clutch with 10” could it work.

or do I need a different flywheel and clutch set up?

thank you

 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 01:28 PM
  #2  
hobohilton's Avatar
hobohilton
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,664
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From: Northwest
See if you have a local "Brake and Clutch" rebuilder. If you do.... Gather up everything you have and take it to their shop and let them look at it and get their input on what you are attempting to do. Verify that the clutch disk slides freely on the input shaft of the transmission. Check the input shaft bearing (behind the retainer collar that the throw out bearing runs on)...

after new clutch installed and get everything back together the clutch would not disengage.

Did you remember to install the throw out bearing? If so, was it sliding freely on the transmission snout?

If you started it in neutral, was it making any noise?

Post some photos of what you are dealing with.

Hobo
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 01:54 PM
  #3  
Patrick Beal's Avatar
Patrick Beal
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I didn’t check the input bearing.
But i was driving just two months ago. And I was the one that was driving it when a rod went through the block.

I got the engine from a cousin who had a 351w hanging in his barn that came out of his crown vic automatic tranny that had 60,000 miles on it

the motor sounds good after I took apart cleaned and re sealed

everything looked good with the clutch when I took the clutch arm boot off underneath when I was adjusting rod to see if I could get clutch to disengage.

I did hear a shutter now after inspecting I see the outer edge of the pressure plate was hitting the bell housing.

I read on different threads the bell housing affect what clutch to get

one website say this bell housing was use in Small block

69 351W w/MT

70 351C w/MT

71 (early) BOSS 351 Mustang
Another says

1969-70 351 C5TA-6394-A

do I get a clutch from the 70’s that match the bell housing.
Or a clutch and flywheel from the 79-80 era to match the engine year.

I bought the clutch for the fits 86 to match what I thought was the bell housing, transmission and drive line manufacturing date


I am going to start calling around tomorrow
 
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