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You have several options to reset the SOC of the BMS.
The SOC resets every 8 hours with the truck locked and no activity.
The SOC and the BMS (including days in use) can be reset with forscan.
The BMS can be turned off completely in forscan.
Thank you. If I leave a smart charger that goes into float pulse mode hooked up (I have a CTEK MUS 25000), will that keep the BMS from ever resetting? I happened to check with CTEK about charging my two battery diesel, and ran across a warning about vehicles with BMS's, and to connect the neg charger clamp to the block or other good ground point - that's why I went and hooked it up the way I did.
And then along comes this thread. Assuming what your answer will be - I should just go yank the CTEK off the F150 and lock the doors and leave it...
The charger will inhibit the BMS from learning the SOC. On the other hand the CTEK will also extend battery life. You will always be chasing the BMS if you use a float charger or any charger.
The charger will inhibit the BMS from learning the SOC. On the other hand the CTEK will also extend battery life. You will always be chasing the BMS if you use a float charger or any charger.
The F150, well all our cars, are not DDs - so my preference is to preserve the battery life. I rotate the CTEK between the 2 trucks as they are parked nose to nose. I'll hook the neg clamp to the block for the F150 and lock the doors for 8 hours when I take it off. My worry is I may have messed up the BMS operation by hooking both charger clamps to the battery... :-/
I need to look into the other option that you have chosen to do: turn BMS off - the bonus is Auto Start/Stop pain-in-the-tail would go away...
So I can't even put my battery on a charger while hooked up in the truck without confusing the BMS???! If so, THAT is totally screwed up...
instead of connecting the charger’s ground clamp to the negative battery cable clamp at the battery negative post, connect it to the other end of the negative battery cable, where it connects to the inner fender. That way the BMS will see the current going going through the battery from the battery charger.
I replaced my battery last year, or was it a year before?, by just removing and replacing. I did it in the O'Reilly's parking lot. I haven't had any issues since. IMO if it were really that complicated there would be a warning sticker next to or near the battery.
You and I did the same thing except I was in an Advance Auto Parts parking lot.
This has been a most informative thread. I am going to opt for keeping my battery tender hooked up as the truck just sits for weeks at a time now.
So this should be fine as long as I disable the BMS in ForScan and connect the negative terminal of the charger to a body ground?
Can anybody direct us to the correct module in ForScan and tell me what characters to change?
P.S. I also read on another forum that simply disconnecting the Hall sensor on the negative battery cable will disable the BMS with no further mods needed. Has anyone here tried doing that?
Pulling the hall effect sensor worked on previous generation trucks. If you do that now it will set a code and will not charge. Does your truck have auto stop start?
Pulling the hall effect sensor worked on previous generation trucks. If you do that now it will set a code and will not charge. Does your truck have auto stop start?
Great, thanks! No auto start/stop on my 2017.
I also figured out that the BMS is in the BCM module, so I can do the new battery reset there I think.
Still not sure how to disable the system entirely as I don't know what characters to change. Or will this be self-explanatory once in the BCM module?
The fact that battery replacement is even a thread and is as confusing as all get-out shows me how preposterous the car industry has become. Apparently the K.I.S.S. principle has completely escaped the manufacturers if it was ever even introduced.
Anyway, this might be an ignorant question but why can't you hook up another battery via jumper cables before removing the old battery for replacement, wouldn't that keep this ridiculous computer system juiced with no need for this BLM baloney (which cars seemed to run fine for practically a century before its introduction)
Sorry for the rants but autos these days are just riddled with unnecessary tech and features these IMO.
Anyway, this might be an ignorant question but why can't you hook up another battery via jumper cables before removing the old battery for replacement, wouldn't that keep this ridiculous computer system juiced with no need for this BLM baloney (which cars seemed to run fine for practically a century before its introduction)
Well, if I understand it, the *theory* is that a new battery has different characteristics than the old worn battery, so fooling the BMS into thinking there was no change of battery would defeat at least part of its purpose.
Originally Posted by IndyDog
Sorry for the rants but autos these days are just riddled with unnecessary tech and features these IMO.
Tradeoffs. High tech definitely increases complexity and reduces reliability in some cases, but it also gets you things like a full sized pickup with near 400 hp that gets over 20 mpg. There is no free lunch!
Good grief, the simple answer to this is, buy a battery and install it yourself! Took me all of 5 minutes in my 2016 F150 XLT Sport 4X4! The switch, from taking the last cable off, to having the other in it's place and hooked up was about 30 seconds, and I didn't loose any radio stations, or any other issues....as if the truck had no idea it was changed! I did buy mine at a Ford dealer (another Motorcraft battery, with more crank-amps, but similar sizing) and it fit in perfectly!
When I got home...just to be on the safe side, I put my battery charger on it, to bring it right up to 100%, which only took a few hours while parked, albeit I'm unsure how necessary that is.
Anyway, a simple job for those wanting to do it themselves!
Good grief, the simple answer to this is, buy a battery and install it yourself! Took me all of 5 minutes in my 2016 F150 XLT Sport 4X4! The switch, from taking the last cable off, to having the other in it's place and hooked up was about 30 seconds, and I didn't loose any radio stations, or any other issues....as if the truck had no idea it was changed! I did buy mine at a Ford dealer (another Motorcraft battery, with more crank-amps, but similar sizing) and it fit in perfectly!
When I got home...just to be on the safe side, I put my battery charger on it, to bring it right up to 100%, which only took a few hours while parked, albeit I'm unsure how necessary that is.
Anyway, a simple job for those wanting to do it themselves!
Good to know somebody on this forum knows more about Ford trucks than the engineers that designed them.
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