Ignition Control Module (TFI) Re-location
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 318
Likes: 20
From: Upstate South Carolina
I'm planning on buying one of the remote kits this week. It looks as though fender mounted is the way to go. I'd like to see any photos of location/installations. I'll extend the main harness as discussed above.
Also I'm going to be installing a new TFI module. I'd like to hear from anyone who has installed the Dyna Module from Performance Distributors. They say it fits the 5.8 351W.
Also I'm going to be installing a new TFI module. I'd like to hear from anyone who has installed the Dyna Module from Performance Distributors. They say it fits the 5.8 351W.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 217
From: Northern VA
That Dyna module is interesting, but I wonder if the improvement is even noticeable or better than the factory black 94+ CCD module. Use the artic silver and remember less is more with that stuff. Make sure both surfaces are clean for optimal heat transfer and make sure the fender mount has adequate contact surface area to further move heat from the module. These things get hot.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,343
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
Tried to have a conversation with that co recently about their remote mount icm distributors which look well designed & affordable.
Never could get straight answer where the PIP is sourced & if Motorcraft will swap in.
Coil saturation time is all well & good, but these ignition systems stock can burn up caps/rotors & wires just fine.
Never could get straight answer where the PIP is sourced & if Motorcraft will swap in.
Coil saturation time is all well & good, but these ignition systems stock can burn up caps/rotors & wires just fine.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 318
Likes: 20
From: Upstate South Carolina
That Dyna module is interesting, but I wonder if the improvement is even noticeable or better than the factory black 94+ CCD module. Use the artic silver and remember less is more with that stuff. Make sure both surfaces are clean for optimal heat transfer and make sure the fender mount has adequate contact surface area to further move heat from the module. These things get hot.
I will likely stick with a Motorcraft module remotely mounted.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 318
Likes: 20
From: Upstate South Carolina
My ICM crapped out last weekend. A new one is in the mail and I figured now is the time to install a TFI relocation kit. I should have done my homework though. I ordered the mk2 McCully kit and -- like I said above -- it's on its way. I assumed it included everything I needed but was disappointed when the online instructions said I can have them build an extension harness, if needed. I too am not especially interested in tearing into my wiring harness. So, I emailed McCully to ask about making me an extension harness but he said he no longer builds them; I'd need to upgrade to the $170 mk3 kit. I'll probably just end up doing that but I want to first look the mk2 kit over when it arrives. I'll check out the fatfoxx video you posted too.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 183
Likes: 7
From: MO
I exchanged it for the mk3 kit. Installation was simple. The new ICM fixed my no start problem, and I'm hopeful the relocation kit will prolong the life of the new ICM. The price of the relocation kit didn't bother me. I am never in the mood to be stranded anywhere. The truck is finally running pretty well. I've got my junkyard 3G alternator and saginaw pump ready to install this spring...
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 318
Likes: 20
From: Upstate South Carolina
I exchanged it for the mk3 kit. Installation was simple. The new ICM fixed my no start problem, and I'm hopeful the relocation kit will prolong the life of the new ICM. The price of the relocation kit didn't bother me. I am never in the mood to be stranded anywhere. The truck is finally running pretty well. I've got my junkyard 3G alternator and saginaw pump ready to install this spring...
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 183
Likes: 7
From: MO
I'm pleased with the quality of it. I thought I did place the initial order online? I exchanged several emails with Jason. He was good to work with, but a little slow to respond to emails. I think if you just email him and tell him what you want, he'll email you an electronic payment request.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 318
Likes: 20
From: Upstate South Carolina
I'm pleased with the quality of it. I thought I did place the initial order online? I exchanged several emails with Jason. He was good to work with, but a little slow to respond to emails. I think if you just email him and tell him what you want, he'll email you an electronic payment request.
4wd High
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 9
Likes: 7
From: central NC
Hello to all. I just joined this forum, because I was searching the web for solutions to why control module on my 1989Ford was failing.
What I am experiencing with my 302, is just what all of you have described you experienced.
I'm just a back yard mechanic, DIY, type working on my own vehicle.
So, I'm sold that I need to relocate my control module. Before I order my kit, it is not clear to me, what will I do with the cable, with the Many wires, and attaches to the END of the control module?
2) and it is not clear to me if the kits come with a cable already assembled [plug and play type] to attach to this 'cable with many wires'? and what to do if it does not? I don't see how I would make 'push on wire connections' to all those small, side by side connections!
I called auto scrap yards local to me, and none have any fords at all, from the 1980s or early 1990s. There for they have no wiring harness I could buy to make my own 'extension cable'.
3) I measured and will need 36 inches of extension cable in order to reach the relocation spot.
4) My 302 is in my 1989 E-150 van. I cannot see a means to 'pull out' cable from the wire loom, in order to travel the 3 feet needed to reach the relocation spot.
5) After reading everyone's posts here, I'm leaning towards the Foxx kit. Would this be correct for my application?
I greatly appreciate your help!
What I am experiencing with my 302, is just what all of you have described you experienced.
I'm just a back yard mechanic, DIY, type working on my own vehicle.
So, I'm sold that I need to relocate my control module. Before I order my kit, it is not clear to me, what will I do with the cable, with the Many wires, and attaches to the END of the control module?
2) and it is not clear to me if the kits come with a cable already assembled [plug and play type] to attach to this 'cable with many wires'? and what to do if it does not? I don't see how I would make 'push on wire connections' to all those small, side by side connections!
I called auto scrap yards local to me, and none have any fords at all, from the 1980s or early 1990s. There for they have no wiring harness I could buy to make my own 'extension cable'.
3) I measured and will need 36 inches of extension cable in order to reach the relocation spot.
4) My 302 is in my 1989 E-150 van. I cannot see a means to 'pull out' cable from the wire loom, in order to travel the 3 feet needed to reach the relocation spot.
5) After reading everyone's posts here, I'm leaning towards the Foxx kit. Would this be correct for my application?
I greatly appreciate your help!
FTE Community Team
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 10,772
Likes: 1,512
I haven't done one of these kits. Personally, if I were to relocate the module, I'd map all of the wires and then splice in the appropriate length of additional wire for each conductor. I'd leave at least a few inches of factory wire at each end, then solder, shrink tube, tape-wrap, put into some flexible wire duct, and secure it so it won't move around much. If you're not somewhat experienced at soldering etc., you might want to have someone do it.
Before doing any of that, get a new module and make sure it works properly in the original location.
Before doing any of that, get a new module and make sure it works properly in the original location.
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