How to pull oil pan

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Dec 8, 2020 | 06:00 PM

eric8

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How to pull oil pan

Found some old threads detailing oil pan removal on our series truck with the FE engine, but nothing about the 302. So for those that have done it, does the 302 engine gave to be jacked up to remove it like it does with the FE to get enough crossmember clearance? Wanting to tackle rear main seal replacement so I'd like to know what I'm in for.

Dec 8, 2020 | 09:51 PM

Christmas

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I think it would be much easier to just pull the engine do what you need to do and put it back in. The biggest problem will be if the exhaust bolts are frozen. If so just disconnect the pipes and pull the manifolds with the motor.

Dec 8, 2020 | 10:37 PM

'65Ford

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I've only removed an oil pan from FE's with engine in truck. I imagine a 302 being similar...raise the engine enough to unbolt the oil pump before the pan will slide out...I'm only guessing though.

Dec 9, 2020 | 12:57 AM

Christmas

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I only suggested because of the rear seal. It is easier to fix not laying on your back.

Dec 9, 2020 | 08:40 AM

eric8

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Christmas

I only suggested because of the rear seal. It is easier to fix not laying on your back.

Yeah that's true. I do have access to a lift though. If the pan would come off easily I'd consider not pulling it. Was just curious if anyone knew for sure 👍

Dec 9, 2020 | 09:05 AM

Galucha

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You can get the pan off by jacking the engine up and using some 2x4 scraps under the motor mounts to hold it up. But 302 2 piece rear main seals are notorious for leaking so you want to do everything you can to make sure you put it in right, and doing it on your back under the truck isn't ideal.

Dec 9, 2020 | 10:15 AM

'65Ford

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Since all engine leaks seem to eventually drip at engine rear, make sure it's the rear main and not a valve cover or oil pan gasket etc. Also make sure it's not the tranny input seal (happened to me once). I have a manual tranny...don't know what you have.

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Dec 17, 2020 | 06:31 PM

JEFFFAFA

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From: Phoenix, Az.

Before you start replacing the seal. Investigate "Powerbuilt" part number 648461. It is an upper rear main seal installer/remover. My brother gave me the one I have. So I don't know where it was purchased. I am guessing H.F. I have not used it yet, but it looks like it would work pretty slick.

Dec 18, 2020 | 09:04 AM

#10

davelj

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From: SE Texas

That tool is for a rope seal. They don't work well on a rubber rear main as used on a 302. Even on a 360/390 with a rope seal, if the little pin is still in the block they don't help much.

Dec 18, 2020 | 10:49 AM

#11

eric8

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Thanks for the tips guys. So would a 71 302 have originally come with the rope seal or the rubber? I assume with a rope seal and the pin in the block, crankshaft removal would be necessary if converting to a rubber seal?

Dec 18, 2020 | 11:01 AM

#12

davelj

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From: SE Texas

Depending on the year of the engine, it could be either. I personally have never successfully changed the block side of a rope seal without pulling the crank.

That said, there are two methods used to tighten up the block side of a rope seal without removing it. There is something called "Sneaky Pete." It is basically an aluminum nail. You drive one in the upper seal from each end, effectively tightening up the rope in the groove. Then replace the lower seal and you are done. It works about half the time, depending on how worn the main bearings are.

The second way is to use a plastic punch or wooden dowel to pack the rope seal up into the groove, again working from each end. Then add additional rope to fill in the groove. I've never used this method but some old mechanics used to swear by it.

Dec 26, 2020 | 07:12 PM

#13

eric8

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Following up on this...for the benefit of those using the search feature in the future, here is the Henry Ford approved way, straight from the 1971 Factory Service Manual