I have a 69 360 2wd halfton. The rear main leaks and I'm sure that the oil pan gasket does also. I was wondering if I would be able to remove the oil pan and rear main without having to move any thing else. does anyone know? I took a look underneath and it seemed as if there was enough clearance to get the oil pan down but is there anything that would give me trouble when taking out and replacing the rear main.(It does come in two halfs right?) I shouldn't have to disconnect the motor mounts and jack up the engine right? Would anyone happen to know the torque specs for the oil pan?
thanks for all help
brad

 

Brad, Unless that sucker is a gusher leave it alone! Oil is cheap and you can do the seals when you rebuild it someday. Pulling the pan requires raising the engine, dropping the pan and oil pump/pickup and sliding the pan out the front. PITA! The rear main cap wiggles out and the seal is two piece. Assemble reverse order. Torque on pan bolts is "snug", I don't know off hand, you will have to look it up. Use the big black gasket, cork sucks!
William in Atlanta

 

I had an '86 f-150 with a 302 in it that had a gusher.
I pourerd some Kleen-flo engine sealer into the oil and it didn't stop it 100%, but it did slow it down enough to keep my boat and trailer fairly oil free. Was supposed to be a temporary measure until i got around to fixing the seal, but the truck got wrecked first. OTOH, It is very thorough method of undercoating

 

I do leak oil pretty badly. probably over a quart a week depending upon how often I drive it. If I lift up the engine do I have to just disconnect the motor mounts or the tranny mounts also. Reaching any of the bolts would not be a problem. Out of these three jobs please put them in order from the hardest to the least hardest: remove the front cover of a 360 (and all the parts that are in the way including the harmonic balancer, the radiator, etc.) or remove the oil pan and replace the rear main, or remove the intake manifold and replace the manifold gaskets.
thanks for all the help
brad

 

Brad, Before you tear into your engine, take a good look at the rear of the intake manifold. They are nortorious for leaking and because the oil runs down, it would cause you to think the rear main was shot.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Aug-02 AT 09:22 PM (EST)]Did this last fall on my 68 F-100 390.
You do have to diconnect the enging mounts but the tranny mounts can be left alone. Disconnect the engine mounts,raise the engine, block it up SECURELY. Remove the oil pan bolts, drop the pan down as far as it will go. It will not come out yet. You do not need to remove the oil pump as the pickup tube assembly will unbolt from the pump. If you do find it easier to remove the pump and pickup tube together feel free to do so. It's just a pain to get the pump drive lined up with the distributor and the pump without it moving. Remove the tranmission dust shield. Loosen the bearing caps (all bearings) VERY slightly, just enough to be able to wiggle the caps. Remove the rear main cap, follow the seal maufacturers directions for installing the new seal. The 2 pins that lock the side seals into place against the block are a pain to install, but you'll get 'em in. Retorque your bearing caps. Reinstall the dust shield, lift the pan up, loosely install one of the rear pan bolts, reach into the pan and reinstall the pump pickup, reinstall the pan bolts, let the engine down and reconnect the engine mounts. Change the oil filter, add fresh oil, start it up, check for leaks. Done.
You can do it.

 

hey man... i just had this same problem... gusing bad... my entire engine compartment was one huge oil slick. every time i went to the car wash, i thought the EPA was going to track me down and fine the crap out of me, so i got the parts to do the oil pan and rear main and i had intended to do only these two.. however, once i got into it, my rings were shot, my bearings were cooked, and the whole bottom end was just FUBAR... now, about 6 days and a bottom end rebuild later, it runs great and doesn't leak a drop. i'd leave the rebuild option open, but don't be suprised if you get into it, and things don't look as they should. it's easier to do it all at once rather than try to nickle and dime it to where it barely fixes it. torque on your oil pan in 3-7 pounds that must me strictly stuck to. if you overtighten, it'll compress the gasket, and once it's compressed, the bolts will always rattle out. a little blue threadlock will fix this, but wouldn't we all rather do it right the first time? good luck man


aaron


--- i'd rather push my ford than drive a chevy ---

 

I say hardest is the oil pan, then the intake (really heavy), then the front cover. All of these are fairly easy if the engine is out and on a engine stand. If you need to do all of this I'd pull the engine. Quart a week ain't bad, buy it by the case at Wal Mart!
William in Atlanta