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Since you changed new parts to the driveline,not-so-long-ago...
Are you 100% sure that origin aint engine/tranny ..?
Is the vibration same under load,constant or speed/rpm related?
In what timeframe/miles,it has developed?
You know your stuff but i was first thinking about driveline,when my injector poppet valve screw started to loosen up..
Since you changed new parts to the driveline,not-so-long-ago...
Are you 100% sure that origin aint engine/tranny ..?
Is the vibration same under load,constant or speed/rpm related?
In what timeframe/miles,it has developed?
You know your stuff but i was first thinking about driveline,when my injector poppet valve screw started to loosen up..
It sure feels driveling related to me. It got most noticable during a 600 mile highway trip to pick up a zf6 for my friends truck.
truck. At first it only did it at over 65.
Now it does it at lower speed, and if I run it up to say 70 on the highway and let off throttle and kick it into neutral the vibration continues. So load on motor, no load on motor, conver locked and unlocked, in multiple gears, in neutral.
To me it seems like the drive shaft.
It could in theory be the rear gears or true trac, but I sure hope not as they were new this summer.
I really need to pull rear diff cover and check for issues. But I have no time, I would need to get more diff fluid and rtv, and have a few minutes to do the check.
The thought of a flex plate issue came to my mind as well, but that too was a new heavier grade unit.
It is hard with having so many changes to the truck in a short period.
I took a closer look at those Dorman setups and would actually consider that option myself if it became necessary. It appears they use sealed Spicer u-joints also at least on the pictures shown on the one I would need. Some Dorman stuff is crap and some of it is alright. My A/C bypass pulley is Dorman and was less than half the price of the Motorcraft, which appeared to be of no higher quality whatsoever to justify the price. Those drivelines are probably suitable O.E. replacements because of the inherently high liability and safety concerns with parts like that
Looking at it, they do appear to be spicer joints. They are slso completely new units.
I kind of figure that I could then at some point find a shop that could balance my unit and I could then keep it as a back up.
I feel it may be the best option for my situation.
I got up early, so when it gets light out I can go take a closer look, before getting the 2 kiddos up for remote learning...and conference calls with my wife and Dr for our little guy.
Yay for 25° and my heated shop being taken up by thay darn zf6 swap truck....to bad his shaft wont fit my truck.
At the end of the day truck may just sit till we know whats going on.
Diagnosis would be good to do. I dont wanna wast $700 right now, especially since this year has been a financial train wreck for me.
So I pulled the shaft this morning, all the u joints look perfect, the carrier looks perfect.
So I did 2 things, I cut the large collar harmonic ballancer off the rear of the shaft cause it felt funky
I shimmed the carrier barring down an 1/8"
I also have the rear fluid draining to take a look inside at the gears and truetrac
Trans and engine mounts look good
I looked under at the harmonic balancer, looks ok
But I am dripping coolent very slow from water pump....yay! Just one more thing.
Heading out to look at gears, friend is bringin rtv. I found some gear oil on my shelf.
going to go out and look at the gears and truetrac in a few minutes. Then driving the van down to hospital for an overnight stay so the wife can sleep
Well, didnt get finished. Did get the rear cover rtv'ed on, and shaft ready to go on.
Will get to it at some point, not sure when.
Hopefully it will at least make a difference so I know the shaft was/is the issue.
Gears all looked good
Looks cool but holy hell they want some money for one of those. Taking proper measurements and praying it fits when it arrives also seems like a fiasco waiting to happen IMO for such an expensive part. You would think they'd have certain common configurations of truck measurements already in their database (maybe they do).
Well, got the driveshaft in place, after a good look over. I had cut the harmonic balancer off, and greased the slip yoke, also re oriented it 180° making sure the yokes are all syncronised, then I shimmed down the carrier 1/8" or so.
About %80+ of the vibration is gone. I really only notice it from 62mph+.
So at some point I will just have a new shaft assembly built. For now I feel ok with it fir local driving.
You have some great sources for a new shaft listed above that other FTE'rs have vetted for you. Not saying you must choose one of them, but them being listed may give you a head start. That shop I listed and I was speaking to in the past was very helpful.
Increased driveshaft speed with 4.30 gears highlighting the vibration? Personally I have built multiple unbalanced driveshafts without any issues of vibration.
One thing that comes to mind since you re-geared it is the pinion crush sleeve isnt properly torqued/crushed. This can cause the yoke to not fully seat against the pinion when tight. Thus leaving 1/16-1/8" of spline that is not fully engaged in the yoke and flat against the pinion nut. This can cause a slight wobble in the yoke when rotating. Everything appears tight but since the splines have play it can wobble at speed. If that makes sense.