Will do, thanks.

 

Makes sence, I will have to check it out. The guy who torqued it sets these up for a living, but crap happens at 3am😁
Thanks for the tip

 

In fact, check pinion preload regularly. Even if the pinion nut doesn't back off, the preload can become too low as the pinion bearings wear.

 

@ESwift ...what became of this?

 

Not a whole lot, havent driven truck much yet. I had gotten rid of that big external ring on back of driveshaft, and then shimmes the carrier bearing down 1/4" and that cleared up about %90 of vibration. I figure that if I have issues in the summer, I will just have a new shaft assembly built.

 

The reason I ask is I'm working on a F350 dually that has a Driveline speed vibration starting at 35mph. Has new u-joints and carrier bearing...and was supposed to be balanced after that work.

 

Is it a cclb? What height rear blocks does it have? I wonder if the driveshaft could benifit from adjusting angle by shimming carrier down like 1/8-1/4"

 

I think the shop that did the work took a shorcut or three.

 

cab and half long box.

 

Met up with @FordTruckNoob on Wednesday to help diagnose a vibration. With his help and his Action camera I think we identified the culprit. It felt like a driveshaft issue, and certainly looked like it on the video. I have the entire driveshaft out to be reworked. I will know on Thursday if they found anything.

Leonard, thanks for your help, and if you're inclined to post the video...have at it.

 

I'm fighting this right now too with mine. Normally I never take the truck up over 60 mph doing the local work as there is no interstate driving involved. 55-60 is about as fast as it gets and not even for that long. Just returned from a trip out west (too cold and windy still for that IMO but that another topic) and it's fine running 62-64 mph most of the time depending on temperature, but develops a definite driveline shudder at speeds exceeding 65.

I drive like a slowpoke anyway since the fuel bill is on my tab and it amazes me how fast these guys are running tractor trailers these days but it did become a bit of a concern under certain situations where I had to speed the truck up to pass somebody to get back in the slow lane. Normally I'm happy keeping it in a speed range where it runs smooth but obviously this became obnoxious at times on a long trip.

I've had the driveline off and the U-joints replaced with greaseable Spicer 5-1410-1X by a shop within the past year and a half and I don't think they did a very good job, because this wasn't a problem at all with the originals before they went bad. I could run the truck up to 70 or faster with no shudder or vibration. (Not that I did very often but I could is the point). It seems like it helps when get out the grease gun and top off the pressure with a half pull or two, but I have a rear joint that leaks pressure from a stripped out zerk fitting so I've got at least one that wont grease properly, and I also have one in the middle with a cap that wont purge at all, so my first suspicion is that I probably just need to replace all three of them (again) and see what happens. This time I'm going to go with the non-greasable versions (5-1410-X) of the same joint as I really don't care for greasing u-joints anyway and they make a mess. I also have a failed oil seal on the rear output on the transmission which I assume is related to the issue, but it's been seeping for a long time...well prior to the new u-joints but it has gotten worse and needs fixed also.

 

When I rebuilt the driveline on the F250, I used the ungreasable Spicers. Recently the Tacoma had a vibration...driveshaft speed. A short trip had one of the u-joints warm to the touch, and the hanger bearing isolator was shot. Some more Spicer non-grease versions in that too. Smooth as creamy peanut butter now.

I didn't learn a smallish trick from the driveline company...after you get the circle clips installed....strike the yoke (that houses the u-joint cap) with a steel hammer. He claims that allows the pressure from pressing them in to equalize.

Anyway, in the short conversation with the tech...he noticed a few things. 1) wrong hanger bearing, 2) it had been shortened (non factory weld), 3) the rear most u-joint was "notchy" (not the cause though), 4) was an area that a weight "was" but no longer was there.

 

 

Driveshaft done at the driveline shop. I have to get it today and throw it in...in the rain. According to them...."Severely out of balance." Cost? $105

@FordTruckNoob ...Hillbilly F1 pitcrew alright!

 

Which part(s)? Did the slip joint check out okay?