300 i6 EFI cheap performance upgrades
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300 i6 EFI cheap performance upgrades
I'm home from school for the winter and once finals are over I'll have a lot of downtime, so I was considering keeping myself occupied by trying to get a little more performance out of my truck. It's a 93 F150 with a 300, mazda 5 speed, rwd. What would be the easiest ways to get a little more power out of the engine? I'm looking for relatively easy jobs within a few hundred dollars. How much would working on the exhaust help? It's running through both cats into a 32 inch glasspack exiting behind the rear wheel. Would a walker y-pipe off the manifolds make that big of a difference? Is there any intake work I could do? Thinner head gasket maybe? EFI upgrade? Like I said I'm just looking for inexpensive ways to get a little more power. I have the time, just not the money.
NITROUS??? ITBs???
NITROUS??? ITBs???
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 904
Likes: 115
From: Laurel, MS
I have a '91 F150 with 300 I6 and M5OD. Nearly 20 years ago I pulled the head and port matched it and removed the bumps in the exhaust ports following the instructions in this article.
https://cdn.website.thryv.com/7fc8b0...20Matching.pdf
At the same time I deleted all of the smog stuff except for EGR. If you leave the sensors plugged in you won't get a check engine light.
While the results of this weren't massive power gains, it did produce gains that you could feel in the seat of the pants...most noteably that the engine revved quicker.
https://cdn.website.thryv.com/7fc8b0...20Matching.pdf
At the same time I deleted all of the smog stuff except for EGR. If you leave the sensors plugged in you won't get a check engine light.
While the results of this weren't massive power gains, it did produce gains that you could feel in the seat of the pants...most noteably that the engine revved quicker.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 869
From: N.W. Alabama
tune up(stick with regular Autolite/Motorcraft copper plugs $1.50 each), and timing bump, from base timing of 10*, to 12-14*, or until you hear ping under load, then back off, a little at a time, until ping stops/
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 586
From: Chillicothe
What is the main thing you do with the truck?
Just drive to and from school? Pull anything? Lot of highway driving or just back roads?
Look on the door sticker and see what code you have in the axle spot. Post up what it is.
A 300 2wd 5 speed truck may have as low as a 2.73 gear I'll bet. Cheapest performance upgrade would be to get a rearend from a junkyard/craigslist/marketplace that is a better gear ratio. With the return vs investment on an efi 300 the rear gear is the best way to go.
Just drive to and from school? Pull anything? Lot of highway driving or just back roads?
Look on the door sticker and see what code you have in the axle spot. Post up what it is.
A 300 2wd 5 speed truck may have as low as a 2.73 gear I'll bet. Cheapest performance upgrade would be to get a rearend from a junkyard/craigslist/marketplace that is a better gear ratio. With the return vs investment on an efi 300 the rear gear is the best way to go.
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It's not my main vehicle since I have access to a more reliable vehicle, but I just drive it for fun. I don't drive it to school since I go to school in Indiana and live in Missouri, but I've thought about taking it there. I think I eventually want to go for straight-line speed including probably lowering it a few inches, stiffer suspension, and probably even a 351 swap but that's a long way off. I want to keep it drivable though, and a lot of it is highway driving. I don't pull anything with it but having the ability to would be nice. I only have a bumper hitch at the moment but I've thought of taking it to U-haul and getting a real hitch put in.
I've actually already replaced the rear end. It had a 2.73 when I acquired the truck, and I decided I wanted a 3.73 LSD, but went to the junkyard and all I could find was a 3.55 open so that's what I've got. That did make a big difference.
I've actually already replaced the rear end. It had a 2.73 when I acquired the truck, and I decided I wanted a 3.73 LSD, but went to the junkyard and all I could find was a 3.55 open so that's what I've got. That did make a big difference.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 586
From: Chillicothe
Well you did the big one then lol.
Glass packs are actually pretty restrictive, maybe look into a good magnaflow or dynomax muffler.
copied from a trailblazer ss forum
Here are a few flow tests on typical glass packs louvered and non and even reverse flow. I know they are smaller diameter, but you get the idea between the ones with the holes (Bullet style) and the others......
2.25” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM
2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFM Reverse flow 141 CFM
Testing done on a Stock motor had a loss of 10HP and 11ft/lbs of torque between a louvered and non louvered 2.5" generic glasspack.
Wanna know how much differance 2.25" flows over 2.5"? How about 20%!
2.25” Cherry Bomb 239 CFM
2.50” Cherry Bomb 294 CFM
2.5" Dynomax VT 17956 - 841 CFM -
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Dynomax Super Turbo 278 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Ultraflow Bullet 512 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Gibson Superflow 267 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Flowmaster ( 2 Chamber) 249 CFM
2.5” Inlet Outlet Flowmaster ( 3 Chamber) 229 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Thrush CVX 260 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Maremount Cherry Bomb 298 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Aero Chamber 324 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Max Flow 521 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Borla Turbo 373 CFM
2.5" Inlet/Outlet Magnaflow 284 CFM
Glass packs are actually pretty restrictive, maybe look into a good magnaflow or dynomax muffler.
copied from a trailblazer ss forum
Here are a few flow tests on typical glass packs louvered and non and even reverse flow. I know they are smaller diameter, but you get the idea between the ones with the holes (Bullet style) and the others......
2.25” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM
2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFM Reverse flow 141 CFM
Testing done on a Stock motor had a loss of 10HP and 11ft/lbs of torque between a louvered and non louvered 2.5" generic glasspack.
Wanna know how much differance 2.25" flows over 2.5"? How about 20%!
2.25” Cherry Bomb 239 CFM
2.50” Cherry Bomb 294 CFM
2.5" Dynomax VT 17956 - 841 CFM -
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Dynomax Super Turbo 278 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Ultraflow Bullet 512 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Gibson Superflow 267 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Flowmaster ( 2 Chamber) 249 CFM
2.5” Inlet Outlet Flowmaster ( 3 Chamber) 229 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Thrush CVX 260 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Maremount Cherry Bomb 298 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Aero Chamber 324 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Max Flow 521 CFM
2.5” Inlet/Outlet Borla Turbo 373 CFM
2.5" Inlet/Outlet Magnaflow 284 CFM
5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 26
Likes: 7
Install an MSD 6A ignition. It is just about plug and play if you get the correct Ford harness. The actual performance increase is debatable, but you will notice the engine starts and idles smoother. A slight increase in fuel mileage should be apparent as well. The 300 six has a large (inefficient?) combustion chamber that the multi-spark feature helps. Also, the MSD is transferable to any engine swap you may complete in the future. This is the only modification I have done to my own '94 XLT, 4.9L, 5 spd.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
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From: Kentucky
Subscribe to this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nline-6-a.html
Forced induction and/or nitrous is the only to make HP/TQ with the 300 6 cylinder. There is no cheap way to do it..except for a V8 swap.
Forced induction and/or nitrous is the only to make HP/TQ with the 300 6 cylinder. There is no cheap way to do it..except for a V8 swap.
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[QUOTE=Mudsport96;19611175]Well you did the big one then lol.
Glass packs are actually pretty restrictive, maybe look into a good magnaflow or dynomax muffler.
copied from a trailblazer ss forum
Here are a few flow tests on typical glass packs louvered and non and even reverse flow. I know they are smaller diameter, but you get the idea between the ones with the holes (Bullet style) and the others......
2.25” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM
2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFM Reverse flow 141 CFM
Testing done on a Stock motor had a loss of 10HP and 11ft/lbs of torque between a louvered and non louvered 2.5" generic glasspack.
Really? That surprises me. My glasspack is a Thrush; I was under the impression that they made good products and maybe it'd flow better than a cherry bomb or generic. How restrictive are the cats? would it be worth it to get rid of them or are they worth the clean air?
Glass packs are actually pretty restrictive, maybe look into a good magnaflow or dynomax muffler.
copied from a trailblazer ss forum
Here are a few flow tests on typical glass packs louvered and non and even reverse flow. I know they are smaller diameter, but you get the idea between the ones with the holes (Bullet style) and the others......
2.25” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM
2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFM Reverse flow 141 CFM
Testing done on a Stock motor had a loss of 10HP and 11ft/lbs of torque between a louvered and non louvered 2.5" generic glasspack.
Really? That surprises me. My glasspack is a Thrush; I was under the impression that they made good products and maybe it'd flow better than a cherry bomb or generic. How restrictive are the cats? would it be worth it to get rid of them or are they worth the clean air?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 908
Likes: 119
I have a '91 F150 with 300 I6 and M5OD. Nearly 20 years ago I pulled the head and port matched it and removed the bumps in the exhaust ports following the instructions in this article.
https://cdn.website.thryv.com/7fc8b0...20Matching.pdf
At the same time I deleted all of the smog stuff except for EGR. If you leave the sensors plugged in you won't get a check engine light.
While the results of this weren't massive power gains, it did produce gains that you could feel in the seat of the pants...most noteably that the engine revved quicker.
https://cdn.website.thryv.com/7fc8b0...20Matching.pdf
At the same time I deleted all of the smog stuff except for EGR. If you leave the sensors plugged in you won't get a check engine light.
While the results of this weren't massive power gains, it did produce gains that you could feel in the seat of the pants...most noteably that the engine revved quicker.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,718
Likes: 586
From: Chillicothe
[QUOTE=Jbay123;19614207]
I'd lose the factory cat for an aftermarket one. After this many years, how well is it really working too?
I know theres a difference between the 4.3 gm and a 300 big 6, but with a high flow intake and a custom catback with the ultraflow bullet "muffler" my 4.3 made 170hp/230tq at the wheels spinning 32in swampers. Through an auto and 3.42 gears it was ok. Id say lose the louvered glasspack but the race bullet will definitely bring the noise so be aware of that lol
Well you did the big one then lol.
Glass packs are actually pretty restrictive, maybe look into a good magnaflow or dynomax muffler.
copied from a trailblazer ss forum
Here are a few flow tests on typical glass packs louvered and non and even reverse flow. I know they are smaller diameter, but you get the idea between the ones with the holes (Bullet style) and the others......
2.25” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM
2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFM Reverse flow 141 CFM
Testing done on a Stock motor had a loss of 10HP and 11ft/lbs of torque between a louvered and non louvered 2.5" generic glasspack.
Really? That surprises me. My glasspack is a Thrush; I was under the impression that they made good products and maybe it'd flow better than a cherry bomb or generic. How restrictive are the cats? would it be worth it to get rid of them or are they worth the clean air?
Glass packs are actually pretty restrictive, maybe look into a good magnaflow or dynomax muffler.
copied from a trailblazer ss forum
Here are a few flow tests on typical glass packs louvered and non and even reverse flow. I know they are smaller diameter, but you get the idea between the ones with the holes (Bullet style) and the others......
2.25” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM
2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFM Reverse flow 141 CFM
Testing done on a Stock motor had a loss of 10HP and 11ft/lbs of torque between a louvered and non louvered 2.5" generic glasspack.
Really? That surprises me. My glasspack is a Thrush; I was under the impression that they made good products and maybe it'd flow better than a cherry bomb or generic. How restrictive are the cats? would it be worth it to get rid of them or are they worth the clean air?
I know theres a difference between the 4.3 gm and a 300 big 6, but with a high flow intake and a custom catback with the ultraflow bullet "muffler" my 4.3 made 170hp/230tq at the wheels spinning 32in swampers. Through an auto and 3.42 gears it was ok. Id say lose the louvered glasspack but the race bullet will definitely bring the noise so be aware of that lol
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 904
Likes: 115
From: Laurel, MS
No sir. The factory EFI ran it just fine.
I didn't mention it, but if you delete the AIR pump you also need to delete the rear catalytic converter. I did this at the same time.
It has served me well for nearly 20 years, but now I'm actually in the middle of a 351W swap.
I didn't mention it, but if you delete the AIR pump you also need to delete the rear catalytic converter. I did this at the same time.
It has served me well for nearly 20 years, but now I'm actually in the middle of a 351W swap.
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That's kind of my plan, I think I'm going to get a 351W out of a boat and rebuild it to make 5-600hp, but that's in the not immediate future. I'm glad to hear the factory EFI handled the porting well, I may look into doing that. If it needed any kind of electronics work then I think I'd be in over my head because I know almost nothing about PCMs and ECUs and EFI control.
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