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Just the carrier bearing spaced so that the clinometer goes back and forth between 7.5 and 7.6. Took it for a drive and a lot better. Most people would think the slight vibration is from the M/T tires. You said the rear pinion was a too low. With have the blocks cut they are flat. Since I have a nice new set of 2.5 degree lift blocks. Would it be worth looking at getting a 2 degree shim to get even better angle?
Have you had a chance to get the latest angles? Hopefully you are getting close.
The main problem is not knowing how much axle wrap you have. I have seen videos of F150s with horrible axle wrap, resulting in major vibes on takeoff, while others didn't have near as much wrap.
I remember one where the GoPro showed more axle wrap than I thought possible under just medium throttle.
It may take a little time to zero in on the right axle angle, but the rest are starting to look really good.
Without being there to feel what each change does, it will just take a little longer. I believe this will be solved. If getting the angles where they should be doesn't do it, it may be time for a frame mounted camera.
The angles are really close, but not quite there. It doesn't take but a degree off the feel it.
Didn't get a chance to check it today. Planning on tomorrow afternoon. One last day before another snow storm and then near zero temps. I will post them when I get them. Should I also get the angles for the driveshafts and not just at the joints?
Didn't get a chance to check it today. Planning on tomorrow afternoon. One last day before another snow storm and then near zero temps. I will post them when I get them. Should I also get the angles for the driveshafts and not just at the joints?
The main thing is each joint. From what I have seen, you shouldn't have any binding from to much working angle. We can get them after we get the rest straightened out for reference.
I had a Mercury Grand Marquis that the driveshaft angle was 1 1/2 deg low. It vibrated the whole time I had it. Not real bad, but enough to irritate me. No adjustment on those.
I has designed adjustable lower track bars to get it in line, but a truck knocked a light pole on it and totaled it out before I could get to it.
Just rechecked the angles. From the trans yoke (T/C) 7.2, carrier bearing yoke 7.7 (I spaced it a little more to get 7.7 after rereading were you said that would be a better #) rear pinion 6.4.
Try to get the rear axle pinion point up at the carrier yoke at 7.2 degrees. This should give an indication of if you are having a lot of axle wrap or not. Loosen the U- bolts and slide the shims under the low end until you get the right angle, then tighten the u-bolts down.
This is only temporary for a test. Don't raise them enough for the center bolt to lose contact with the axle.
For no more than you are moving, I can't see that happening. Drive and see what is happening there. Without knowing what kind of axle wrap you have, we're at the point of temporarily adjusting and checking to find the sweet spot. This should be the last steps you need.
I just happened to think your angles will change with the truck jacked up. Put the pinion 1/2 degree lower than the carrier yoke. That should be the max up. If that doesn't fix it we will slowly move down more.
What we don't want is for the axle to wrap up at a steeper angle than the carrier yoke.
I will have to order shims that we allow me to be able to make the small adjustments like your referring to ( horse shoe style). I will check with my local drive line shop first. But either way will want to what about a week to work on. Winter is giving another snow storm and then all next week single digits temps.
Weather is starting to get warmer finally. But the shims I ordered are stuck in Texas. So that may be a while before I get them. I did pull the driveshaft back out and took it to the driveline shop again. This time they found a slight bend in the rear shaft. Said they took the end off and straightened it and then rebalanced. But said sometimes they take and sometimes they don't. Got it reinstalled and still have the vibration. I have been able to find someone with the same size driveshaft as mine and will be getting it from them this week some time to try a different driveshaft just to rule that out for sure. And if it takes care of it I can buy it from them. If not then will have to wait for the shims. Or would that indicate something wrong in the rear end itself? The front pinion has no movement.
Wait for the shims unless the other drive shaft fixes your problem. It doesn't take much out to cause bad vibes. On rare occasions, the pinion input shafts have become bent, but that was back in the day when single post lifts were common, and the drive shaft would get bent when lifting. Long single piece shafts were the worst to get bent, such as on the full size Dodge vans.
Swapped in the other driveshaft. Helped the vibration but didn't get rid of completely. Going to leave this driveshaft in and when the shims show up, fine tune it to get rid of the last little bit of vibration.
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