When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I .eased up measuring the slip joint. Measured the wrong cap. The correct measurement is 8.3.
I think your first measurement at the carrier is correct. The cap to measure is the one pointing straight down with the tailshaft yoke. The carrier yoke and tailshaft yoke should be matched, just one facing forward, the other facing back.
The rear axle yoke should be measured off the same position cap as the others. The cap that is connected to the rear axle yoke, nor the driveshaft.
If the rear axle number you gave is correct, your axle is pointing up way too much.
With my lift blocks being tapered. Right now I have the 2" blocks with the big end of the tapered facing forward and the 4" block small end facing forward. The 2" block has a 1/4 taper and the 4" block has a 1/2" taper. Should I flip them both so that the 2" block the big end is forward a d the 4" the small facing to the back. Or go with making both end ends facing forward. Or 3rd option buy a new set of flat lift blocks and do away with the double tapered ones.
How high is your lift? You may be lifted so high that traditional driveline angles will not work because the working angle of the joint will be too great. If your rear driveshaft is sloping down toward the rear yoke 8 deg or so, that is a very large angle to overcome, being your transmission and carrier are where they are.
Here are the three caps that need to be measured. You will have to make sure each one is pointed straight down toward the ground. This will require jacking up one wheel and rotating the driveshaft to get the one at the rear of the carrier bearing to point down after you measure the transmission yoke.
I can tell you now the rear pinion angle will need to come down, but how much is yet to be determined.
Shim your rear axle until the yoke is 2 deg lesd than the carrier yoke. Then give me the carrier yoke deg and the axle yoke deg. Next measure the degree slope of the driveshaft connecting the two so I can get a working angle of the u-joints.
I will see what I can come up with my current blocks. Otherwise I will have to get some axle shims. It might be a couple of days. Winter storm warning right now and I can only work on the truck outside. To tallnfor my garage. At least want to wait until it's not snowing on me.
Just got done flipping my blocks 180. Was at 9.8 and now at 2.1. I really don't feel comfortable with installing any shims when I already have stacked blocks. My vibration is way less then it used to be. But of course now I can feel it more when when under declaration. At this point I think I would be wise to order new blocks or new spring for the lift and then work with fine tuning with shims. Thoughts???
These angles don't seem right. What is the transmission tailshaft angle when measured sitting at the same exact place as the other angles were checked?
The angle will change is they are measured with the truck sitting at different places.
From what I am reading, if you can get 3.7 deg removed from the high side of the shims at a machine shop, you should be good. Have them remove just from the high side and taper into the low end so you won't lose height.
That should put you at 6.1, which would be exactly 2 degrees lower than the carrier yoke to allow for axle wrap.
If all measurements are correct, your working angles will be very good. I am surprised your engine and transmission points downhill so much at the rear.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
