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Hello all. So I am a ford dealer tech who has replaced far more 2.7 oil pans then I would like under warranty.
The first week of November I once again replace a leaking oil pan and got the exact crappy oil pan from ford I expected.
Today I got another leaking oil pan and I was shocked to open the box and find a oil pan with a proper bloody gasket, the oil pan is still plastic but it only needs RTV at the timing cover to crank case, you also dont have to let the engine drip dry for one day, you also do not have to throw out the whole oil pan for when it leaks, just the gasket. I guess what I am saying is its a normal oil pan, I hope to whatever gods and devils that exist that this is a better oil pan then the original ****.
I double & triple checked and it is a new TSB and a new oil pan part number.
Here is the new oil pan part number - JT4Z-6675-B.
I think it’s very interesting that before the 2.7 was introduced to the F150, the engineers who tested this engine in the F150 didn’t experience any oil pan issues during the development cycle.
With that being said, I also wonder if their development F150’s with the 2.7 used a metal oil pan.
A revive of this thread.
What I understand is the new oil pan with the insert gasket is just for 2018 and newer and will not work correctly on the 2016 - 2017, something about PCV? I would really like to know what that is all about. There are no photos of the difference between these oil pans any place.
Just alot of talk about it being bad for the older engines if it is installed on them. So the question is how to make that new oil pan work on the older engines? Also how come there is no after market metal pan? That would be a huge money maker for someone.
Are there any Ford techs that can explain the difference real well?
Interesting thread. I'll have to check to see if the 2.7l EcoBoost in my 1/2 ton had that TSB performed. No oil leaks so far. Now the 6.9l IDI in my Bullnose is another matter.
Has the fact that the engine is Turbo Charged and over pressures the crank case from poor ring seal, forcing oil leaks?
Why would it be from any other cause?
Time to use some common sense.
Good luck.
I have a relative with a 2016 that developed the leak. Since he got it used some months ago, maybe it has had a few rounds at the dealer for that repair. I told him to go where ever to get it fixed and if it leaks again and there is no warranty from who ever fixes it
then I'd like to fix it. I just don't want to be the one that fixes it and then have it leak, and hear the music. If I work on it I will used the same oil pan and not replace it, nor will I use the dealer fix, I will develop a new method, that has worked for the last 60 years for me.
The replacement oil pan should be a metal pan not another plastic toy. And what is really crazy is they designed a new pan for the 2018 up models and not for the older ones? Why?
Has the fact that the engine is Turbo Charged and over pressures the crank case from poor ring seal, forcing oil leaks?
Why would it be from any other cause?
Time to use some common sense.
Good luck.
It could be a cause of leaks, and there is some sort of PCV thing in the older 2015 to 2017 oil pans so I understand, don't know for sure, since zero information that I can find on it. I'd like to see the two different pans side by side.
You say why from any other cause, well distorted plastic is a cause, crappy RTV is a cause, and flat bad engineering is a cause. There are many different situations, that a case is sealed or bolted together and no leaks, that are pressurized fairly high, so done right yes, it could hold pressure. If it was a very high pressure other areas on the engine would be leaking as well. The oil is not spraying out of the pan flange area its a slow seepage in most cases, similar to wicking.
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