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Whelp, guess I’ll keep the filter (and get a turkey baster)
Or you can just weld one of these to the bottom of the filter can and install a drain plug. This is exactly what some of the AC and Fram filter cans have.
Whelp, guess I’ll keep the filter (and get a turkey baster)
It's a six cylinder engine. Unless you do extensive mods, you have to keep the filter. What 38 Coupe said, it's not like the V8's. So weld a plug boss on the bottom of the can, unless you really like baster method. I used to service Luberfiner 750-C's. They were a partial flow by-pass filter. Used to see them on class 8 trucks a lot. Held about three gallons of oil, and a soaked element weighed around twelve pounds - but they had a nice drain valve.
My 51 M3 V8 came with a larger than standard filter assm., it has a drain plug in the housing .
One down side is it takes four head bolts to mount to engine.
Greg
The picture at the top of this thread isn't a V8, it is an H series six. I don't think you can remove the filter off an H the way you can from a flathead V8.
I think you can, just make up a blanking plate. It is still a bypass filter, not a full-flow.
For some reason I remember the H and M series having full flow oil filters, not bypass filters. I haven't found that explicitly in print yet, but this page of the 1948 Ford Light Duty Truck brochure has an interesting if fuzzy graphic of the oil system including the filter, and the bit at the bottom of the page stating the filter has a bypass valve in case the element gets clogged.
Canister filter isn't necessarily a bypass filter. Ford used full flow canister type oil filters starting in 1952 with the 215 six cylinder, as described in the 53 Ford Truck Full Line brochure here.
Wait...back the old ford up...I have the 226H and just changed the oil. Pretty sure the oil drained out of the canister without the turkey baster procedure?.
Wait...back the old ford up...I have the 226H and just changed the oil. Pretty sure the oil drained out of the canister without the turkey baster procedure?.
I don’t remember doing the turkey thing on the first oil change either.
but since, both times I opened the canister, i had to pump out oil.
Running non-detergent 20w, it’s “thicc”...
maybe that’s the reason?
I can’t believe we used to run nd 70w in our old knucks and flatties.
I ran 50w in my iron sportster for years, but finally tried 20w50.
somehow this H has “Harley genetics”.
I switched to detergent without even understanding the “sludge” threat.
(the bikes have roller bearings)
I wish I had the nerve to switch to 5w20 in the Ford, just scared to clog up oil passages...
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