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I have decided to just tear into my engine. Doing a rebuild most likely. I am currently searching for parts I need. I know y’all may think I’m crazy, but I would like to keep my engine all stock. Everything. I am having trouble finding a stock cam, aside from the engine tech one on Rock auto. Is this brand any good?
I'd be really leery of aftermarket camshafts these days, except from Isky maybe. Find a Ford or Motorcraft NOS somewhere. Made of good henry steel. Same with lifters. Way too much labor involved on your part to trust to scheisse recycled beer can materials.
I mean recently, a lot of the Unpleasantness associated with the engine oil and zinc/phosphorous, is also at least partly attributed to soft cam lobes or defective lifters or improper heat treating. A lot of the camshaft blanks available and ground by the domestic camshaft folks are made in you-know-where.
Brand names don't mean anything either, as far as that goes, particularly country of origin, but that's not news. Melling is a good name, but I don't want to play guinea pig either. Point being a wiped cam lone and stripper glitter throughout the crankcase means a complete engine teardown - starting over. F that. Since he wants to use a stock camshaft, buy a stock camshaft. Why take a chance.
Yeah i think I am understanding. So the cores of the camshafts most likely come from the same place across the ocean, but can get their grind done in the USA?
How much more is a roller cam setup complete compared to a stock cam and lifters?
If just a few hundred, you will be ahead. You won't have to be constantly checking out oils every change to see if the zinc content has changed, or spending an extra $20.00 per oil change for add in zinc.
The time and expense of the above can soon make up for the difference, plus, wondering if your cam is wearing down each time you drive it.
I am once again encountering one of my downfalls, second thoughts.
if I will be rebuilding because there is a lifter tick, could I just replace the lifters or does the cam need replacing also? Just to buy some more time? Or should I just continue with starting to tear it down all the way, or just a top end.
You're going to have to take the intake off anyway. When you get that off, check the lift on each lifter to make sure you don't have a worn lobe on the cam you have that is causing your tick.
In theory at least, your original camshaft may be perfectly serviceable.
Measure the lobes accurately to be sure. Use new lifters. Break-in at high RPM 20 minutes as normal.
Old lifters on a new camshaft, on the other hand, is not a good plan. (Even that has been done, many times, by people who were not informed this is supposed to be impossible)
If you're going to crack open any gaskets, you may as well do it right once and buy all new. Why reuse an old cam just because of concern of myths, wives tales and what ifs? Pull the engine, get it cleaned up, careful measuring and machining, buy new parts, reassemble it to the letter and run conventional oil or run the Lucas ZDDP additive like 10s of thousands of other people do. If your current cam has a lifter tick going on, it happened for a reason. If you want to keep going into the engine afterwards, reuse some parts.
Flat lobes and stripper glitter oil aren't "myths", I just pointed out if someone wants to use a stock camshaft for whatever reason he would be best served using a Ford camshaft, all things being equal. I trust OEM materials generally speaking, more than aftermarket stuff. Just sayin'. Carry On.
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