About to replace my injector return lines since #8 (rearmost passenger) is leaking and if it isn't then it is contributing to loping idle & stalls when coming to a stop. My IP front seal is already suspect. Went to remove the air breather which IMO is about 1in too tall to begin with as it always tries to hang up under the firewall lip. Finally got it off but it caught the edge of the coarse intake screen, bowed it up and ripped the flat lip off from around 3/4 of the screen. Suggestions on where to find replacements or alternates?

 

this might help you in your search https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...z-9f460-a.html

I believe Tasca has em in stock but they are kinda proud of em.

 

Seems they no longer sell that part. But at least the part number is there for searches.

The old collars are so old and rotten..the return connection between the front drivers & IP snapped off...I've resorted to just using channel locks to snap them off. O-rings on the driver's side came off easy enough by hand. #8 in the far passenger rear the top O-ring (found the leak) broke. The front 2 still to go with working space even more limited. Am hoping replacing the whole set even though just the 1 leaked will solve the short term issues.

 

that is why I posted the link to give a PN to search... as I said Tasca has them in stock but expensive

 

I think I have one laying around at my house. I always come across small/hard to find parts in local junk yards, and I tend to buy them in case someone needs ones or if I need one.

 

Under normal circumstances it seems @ almost $57 but currently going for 33 which is roughly what a few other places are asking. Still way overpriced IMO for a piece of very coarse mesh.

 

it's really just to keep you from dropping nuts and bolts in the manifold... so ya don't need it.

you could make one out of hardware cloth ... the center Grommet wouldn't be hard to find but an outer ring might be a bit difficult to find, one could solder it to a large ring like an old piston ring maybe.
Just an Idea for thought.

you could post a request in the "Parts Wanted" thread in the Sticky area of these forums.

 

this. my 88 has not had one on it in close to 300,000 miles.

 

Won't worry about mine then. Removed it and tried bending it the edges over which helped a little. Got hung up again trying to put breather back on so ended up just ripping the ring off and wedging the mesh down.

Got the new return collars on. Everything connected. After some extra cranking & a couple false starts it was running. Rev the throttle up then release. Tach would drop down to about 600 RPM then recover to ~700. Do it again & back to dying. Restart & let it idle while checking the new parts.

Front Driver's is leaking enough to make a pool of diesel around the GP. With at least 1 more on the same side but not as bad. 3rd back on passenger leaking. The collar's hadn't seated all the way when pushed on. Purchased from ACCURATE DIESEL. Came with just enough new braid-sheathed hose (they have it down to the quarter inch) to replace all the return line connections. New O-rings were installed and added a coat of white grease so the collars would pop on easy. Included were 8 copper washers that I understood as going between the line nuts & collars but way too small to go over the injector nipples.

Still have a small degree of lope. Revved to 2000 then released throttle & it drops to ~700 followed by a drop of about 50 RPM with occasional bounce between 6-700 after revving but won't die anymore. MIGHT have to do with with a small weep on #2 (front passenger?) at the IP which can't be reached now under 2-3 other lines. Or still due to pump seal.

 

those copper washers are Injector seals they go between the Injector and the cylinder head .... you have to remove the injectors to install them.

IF you don't pull the injectors then just save those washers until you do pull an injector... they are 1 time use items.

However old ones can be annealed and reused.

 

So same purpose as the crush washers in the older VW diesels. Gas seals. These washer's though are little bigger than a dime but smaller than a nickel with maybe a 1/4in hole. Pretty sure the threaded end of the injector's aren't THAT skinny. Have seen evidence where people used copper washers between the line nuts & return collars to help the collars stay put then kits eventually including them.

The basic kit for the collars from ACCURATE shows them as part of it & I had them include for the few extra bucks a pump install kit (will need eventually) which is new 12pt nose bolts & few extra O-rings.

On top of it all...today had to run a big trash haul with the truck...I'm also back to not having working brake boost. The vacuum pump was installed new last year. There is suction at the 1-way valve that pops into the booster but before I condemn either how much vacuum should I be getting? 15-20 on vac gauge?

 

yeah same as the VW injector washers Just size difference.

and yeah Vacuum should be between 15-19 Hg

BTW IF vacuum goes low then you should get a Brake warn light from the Low Vacuum Switch/sensor

 

I have found over the years anything under 17 inches means basically no power brakes.
and it should recover vacuum almost immediately. If it takes a few seconds to recover, there's a problem.
test the booster before condemning the new pump

 

^^^^^^^ This
the first thing I would suspect is the check Valve.

understanding how the booster actually works will help you to better trouble shoot it. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129

 

Okay so those washers go down into the head then to get sandwiched. HEAT SHIELDS...that's the term I was looking for.

I don't get a brake light. The pedal just acts like there is no boost. I had a new spare check valve with me & changed it out. The old one I could blow through 1 way and it would wheeze shut the other. The new blow through 1 and not the other. No change. Before the truck was parked & sat for a few weeks it did have brakes.