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yeah, if you can't route them through the frame oh well.
The push through rods seem like something that's going to break eventually, either through normal wear or if something snags one of those lines, and it will just be flopping around on your radiator at that point.
mlamont: You can run the line over the exhaust along the cab floor (put a dei heatsleeve on it), then over the frame rail toward the outside of the truck. Go down and back under the frame to the radiator.
Brkdncr: I agree with the thru-plastic ties that hold the cooler to the radiator. They always seem like they would fail, but they really don't. Had one break on me because I tied it too tight and didn't leave an extra nub to catch it, but the other 3 were fine until I noticed and replaced it.
OK, thanks for all the suggestions. how does this look? Keeps everything relatively flat or downhill. Any issue with me routing it under the motor mount like that? Shouldn’t be anything there that could compress it. I’m going to rotate my cooler so it’s horizontal, just need to pick up another couple 90° fittings.
mlamont: You can run the line over the exhaust along the cab floor (put a dei heatsleeve on it), then over the frame rail toward the outside of the truck. Go down and back under the frame to the radiator.
Brkdncr: I agree with the thru-plastic ties that hold the cooler to the radiator. They always seem like they would fail, but they really don't. Had one break on me because I tied it too tight and didn't leave an extra nub to catch it, but the other 3 were fine until I noticed and replaced it.
does that new routing that I sent look ok? Any concern with routing through the engine mount? Just hoping to be able to re-route without having to buy a new roll of hose. Thanks!
Any issue with routing the lines up the middle like this? If not, I will need to buy a new length of hose. Not the end of the world, but I would love to use what I have if possible.
mlamont: You can run the line over the exhaust along the cab floor (put a dei heatsleeve on it), then over the frame rail toward the outside of the truck. Go down and back under the frame to the radiator.
Brkdncr: I agree with the thru-plastic ties that hold the cooler to the radiator. They always seem like they would fail, but they really don't. Had one break on me because I tied it too tight and didn't leave an extra nub to catch it, but the other 3 were fine until I noticed and replaced it.
pcmdub and Brkdncr:
hey guys, I know I am such a needy noob, but I really appreciate all your help. I am getting so close on getting this truck fired up. If you guys get a second, can you just take a look at this and make sure it looks OK. I thought I had it figured out before, but I didn’t realize a couple crucial things that you guys pointed out to me, so I just want to make sure I’m not missing anything else. Right now I’ve got the supply line running to the bottom, and the outlet line running from the top. Just not sure if having the hoses run up the middle is OK, or if you guys would recommend getting some new hose to make a longer length so that I can flip the whole thing around to run it up the side.
Also just wanting to make sure it’s OK how I routed them in the engine compartment, underneath the motor mount. It doesn’t look like there should be any pinch point, but just want to make sure. Again,I really appreciate all your help, I could’ve done it without you!Matt
2x hoses too high. Also you have the cooler mounted vertically rather than horizontally. Both of the above make it harder on the tranny front pump to circulate the oil.
JEFFFAFAIf you get a second, could you take a look at my last couple post as well and see what you think about the changes that I made. Interested to hear your thoughts if I’ve done anything wrong here, or if this should work better. I appreciate your input. Thanks!!
Looks good to me. Personally I would move the cooler over so that the fittings are not over the radiator fins where they could causes rubbing. Your call thou, the issue is that the swivel fittings you are using can swing back and forth with vibration and end up wearing a hole in the radiator. Hence, most people push the cooler to one side or the other.
Hose routing: I still do not understand why you don't tuck the hoses into the frame. No need to be higher up and near the manifolds/heat. Then you can just zip tie them to the frame and not worry about them.
Again, looks good thou and you are fine to start it up.
Startup: Bleed out air and check flow. I would leave the highest fitting open to insure the air leaves the system, and feed it into a clean gallon container to watch for good flow (no blockages from sealant/tape etc..).
Looks good to me. Personally I would move the cooler over so that the fittings are not over the radiator fins where they could causes rubbing. Your call thou, the issue is that the swivel fittings you are using can swing back and forth with vibration and end up wearing a hole in the radiator. Hence, most people push the cooler to one side or the other.
Hose routing: I still do not understand why you don't tuck the hoses into the frame. No need to be higher up and near the manifolds/heat. Then you can just zip tie them to the frame and not worry about them.
Again, looks good thou and you are fine to start it up.
Startup: Bleed out air and check flow. I would leave the highest fitting open to insure the air leaves the system, and feed it into a clean gallon container to watch for good flow (no blockages from sealant/tape etc..).
thanks for the feedback. So as far as mounting where the fittings can’t rub against the fins, I’m not sure how to do that. If I flip it over so that the hoses are on the other side, the fittings could still hit the fins. If I shifted over enough to where the fittings are not over the fins, then I am into the radiator mounts, which I guess I could fix by using some kind of a spacer or something. I guess I was just under the assumption that I wanted to maximize airflow through the fan shroud to get some additional cooling, in addition to whatever it will receive by just being in the wind out in front of the radiator. So if I shifted it over too far to the right, then I would lose some of that. Maybe my thinking is flawed in that.
As far as routing through the frame, this is what I’m dealing with with the exhaust (see pics). The exhaust basically covers the frame for the length of the transmission. Technically I could route the lines backward for a foot and a half, which would allow me to come back behind the exhaust, And then I could come up through the frame, but that ends at a certain point when the crossmember attaches in. At that point I would have to either come up to the right of the crossmember, or go down to the left of the crossmember, so I wouldn’t be able to go all the way out to the radiator through the frame. But I’m sure that’s the same for everyone, since there’s always going to be the front crossmember there. There is a small opening that I could technically route the hoses in between the two exhaust pipes, and I did buy some DEI heat shield that I could put around it at that point, that would allow me to route into the frame right after the pressure exit from the transmission. Maybe I’ll try that.
mnlamont,
Like I said, then just go with what you got and I am sure it will be just fine. Just curious, after seeing the exhaust next to your transmission pan, ever take a temp of your tranny before all the work? My bet is that the exhaust heats that pan up to 240F plus regardless of a cooler or radiator. Just curious thou...not making more work for you.
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