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I didn’t use any rubber hose or push on fittings. I bought all AN6 fittings for everything. The oil filter and cooler I used from Derale all had threaded in and out ports. For the sensor fitting, I put mine on directly. NPSM to AN6. An6 to An6 sensor fitting to AN6 hose.
I’ve got threaded ports to my cooler now. I had just been looking at in-line filters, but it looks like you’re thinking more along the lines of this remote filter kit(see attachments)? Yeah, I’m not running any normal rubber hose, just the AN6 braided line.
I’ll definitely post some pictures when I’m done.
It’s been a while since I’ve been on here. I work in a hospital, and Covid has definitely put a wrench in the works. Starting to get things going again. Planning on plumbing everything up this week. I think I’ve got all my fittings and a good plan. I’m going to come out of the trans with a straight NPSM 1/4 to my AN6 fitting, then immediately to my sensor fitting, then a short run of hose to my Derale filter. Then to the radiator (new aluminum), then to auxiliary cooler, then back to the trans. My question is on grounding the sending unit for the temp gauge. Do you have to ground both the sensor and the gauge? Or is it enough to just ground the gauge under the dash. I bought a special short sending unit from auto meter so that it doesn’t bottom out in the AN6 fitting. Do I need to run another grounding wire from that sending unit as well? Thanks again for all the help!
When cutting, I use a band saw and then clean up the ends with a tool. Much easier that the sharp cutters, but you can also just grab tape and a hack saw.
I was always told to filter your oil when it is hottest. So I put the filter first (out of the trans). Either way will be fine thou.
Temp gauge is easy. Many suggest just using an adapter in you oil drain plug. I wanted more info, so I ran two temps at the trans output and input. Overkill thou. I like this fitting because it is simple. https://www.anhosefittings.com/an-ma...sor-ports.html
You will probably need STRAIGHT fittings in/out of the transmission, and NPT fittings to go in/out of the Radiator. I say probably because some C6's have 1/4 and others have 1/8" fittings. However, most people thing they are tapered (NPT) but I have been told and SHOWN by a transmission shop that they are indeed straight. The shop said several people have cracked the casing from overtightening NPT fittings (who knows). I used NPSM and no threadlocker or sealant, no leaks at all. Here is the Transmission side. https://www.redhorseperformance.com/...ng-black-2pcs/
also, I went to install these 1/4” NPSM fittings into the case and they don’t thread in. Not sure if I just got bad fittings. The threads seem to match the old fittings and they look very similar but will only thread about 1/2 turn and then stop.
The fitting on the right side APPEARS NPT and the left side is NPS. Some C6's came 1/8" NPS and when someone used an NPT it created a leak with the NPS, so I have heard that people would tap it 1/4" NPT or NPS depending on what fitting they wanted to use. Good news is that you can find a 1/4" NPT to AN6 fairly easily. Or you can tap it out (probably not a good idea with the transmission installed.)
Your sensor question about grounds. The gauge usually just needs the input from the sensor, and then they both use a common (chassis) ground. The issue you MAY have is that the fitting doesn't ground, or is too weak of a ground to get the ohm resistance off the sensor. This can be fixed by creating a ground on the NPT lower threaded portion of the sensor. Or you can get two-wire sensors that float the ground back to the gauge (different gauges). Easy way to test the ground, is to....test the ground with a multi-meter. Thread the sensor and the adapter to the transmission and check for continuity between the chassis/transmission and the fitting.
I just swapped my transmission sensors to 2-wire models because I built a custom touchscreen gauge hidden in the F600 housing. So I didn't need to add grounds again.
I was wondering if it was NPT. I just remember you saying not to go NPT as it could crack the case. But I guess if that’s what it was already using... I know the NPSM had a crush washer. Anything I should use with the NPT to seal it up right? Teflon tape or Teflon thread sealant? Thanks again
Here’s where I’m at. You can see the front line coming off just behind the torque converter, with the sensor fitting attached. I’ve routed them up to a filter which I mounted to the frame rail just behind the radiator. I may bring the lines down a little bit more in the engine compartment, was just trying to keep them away from the exhaust/manifold. I’m assuming it’s OK to bring a cooler line up in front of the radiator, in between the radiator support to attach to my cooler, which is attached to the front of my radiator. From what I understand, This is the most efficient place to put it (unless you’ve got a dedicated fan for it, where you could put it anywhere). The instructions did mention to mount it here in front of the AC condenser. this truck does not have air-conditioning, but I’m assuming this is still a good place to put it. Thanks again for all your help.
I like the flexibility of flexible lines. They are pricey to do, but have great flow characteristics over hand bent lines. Some of the pre-bent lines are really nice if the bends are super smooth. Also, I didn't like the lines going perpendicular to the radiator right down the middle. I tucked all of my lines down the frame to look cleaner and make it easier to work on the engine.
With a big 460 engine, I would suggest making the engine bay as clean as possible. Hard lines are tried and true. Use some welding rods and lay out your pattern first. I would stay away from the headers/exhaust, and left or right of the starter (so you can replace it when needed). Get the biggest cooler you can fit in your application and you won't have to worry about it.
pcmdub was curious in your thoughts on how I laid this all out. Getting ready to button everything up permanently, and I shifted the cooler over a little more so it was more in the direct flow from the fan shroud (no AC condenser). If you get a second, will you just take a look at let me know if there are any glaring concerns on your end. Thanks again for all your help and advice.
Looks great! Be careful to double check those self-tapping screws in the inner-fender well. Make sure the tire doesn't touch when turning lock-to-lock. I like the hose clamps, but maybe you can just run straight down the frame rail instead of going up too high.
2x hoses too high. Also you have the cooler mounted vertically rather than horizontally. Both of the above make it harder on the tranny front pump to circulate the oil.
I ended up skipping the trans cooler for now and went with using just normal hard lines to the radiator and back. After spending some time looking at it my c6 needs to come out in the near future, I’ll deal with auxiliary cooling at that time.
but if it were me I’d do the following:
run lines inside the frame as much as possible
run lines to the side, not underneath.
Hard mount to the radiator support, and not use push-through clips.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I’m going to try to bring those lines down as much as I can. The issue is that right where the lines exit at the transmission, the exhaust blocks the frame rail, so I can’t get it in there. The only way for me to completely take them down the frame rail would be to run it more towards the back of the car and then channel it down to the frame rail. Would probably add another 3 feet to my lines. I will try to see if I can channel them more towards the bottom of the engine compartment though. It’s weird, in the instructions for the Hayden, it said it doesn’t matter which direction to mount it, but after you guys mentioned this I did some research and it definitely looks like you’re right. Otherwise, what is the thought process behind mounting it to the support rather than using the push through rods. I’m sure it’s much more stable that way, although it does feel pretty rocksolid right now. Thanks again for all your help!
yeah, if you can't route them through the frame oh well.
The push through rods seem like something that's going to break eventually, either through normal wear or if something snags one of those lines, and it will just be flopping around on your radiator at that point.
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