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What are you guys running? I have a BDS 6 inch lift and I’m looking for a good set of traction bars. I’m searching but having a hard time finding them for Excursions. My buddy has Pro Comp on his and they look great! But I can’t find a part number.
The problem with the procomp “Traction” bars is they do not allow the suspension to move, they bind the suspension and for the axle to move up or down the axle must rotate which of course IS axle wrap which of course is what you are wanting to avoid. The pro comp style bar is only useful for track vehicles who drag race.
what you want is a Anti-wrap bar, these reduce or eliminate axle wrap that is induced when you use a block between the axle and leaf springs.
your best bet is to get rid of the block.
( why I recommend the 22415 rear spring)
but if you must have a block, the only style of “traction” bar that works without binding your suspension is the 1/2 leaf like your Excursion had stock or a bar with a shackle on the frame end.
As Mark mentioned, many of us have installed OUO bars on our trucks and have great results. Dave is the owner of OUO and will speak with you about any questions you have. Their website is/was a mess, but Clay at Riffraff diesel is an authorized dealer and who I bought the bars through.
The bars are adjustable in length and work very well in high torque situations as well as have great articulation. If you know Mark at all from his Excursion, you know he only picks the best products. Mark drive up from his home to meet me and see the OUO bars in person.
Needless to say, he soon had some OUO bars on his Excursion. I have never met or spoken with anyone (online as well) that did not like the OUO bars. They are pricey, but sometimes you get what you pay for is true.
There is no hesitation in power being applied between my right foot on the pedal and the wheels turning the tires. I tow heavy 90% of the time, so these made my life more comfortable and helped the truck stay healthy and apply power in a smooth and efficient way.
You should make an informed decision on what is best for you and your goals. These were absolutely the right call for me, and like me, everyone else that installed these bars are very happy we went OUO.
The OUO website and YouTube has some videos of the bars in use and going to extreme suspension angles to show their articulation. Below is my install video from years ago. This was my first video, so be warned!
Tagging @akcooper9 and @F0rdc0wb0y are at least two other FTE'rs that have OUO bars that I can think of right of the top of my head. I thought there were a couple more, but I am old and my brain fails me a bit more every day.
Your Excursion is amazing looking! Keep up the good work!
The problem with the procomp “Traction” bars is they do not allow the suspension to move, they bind the suspension and for the axle to move up or down the axle must rotate which of course IS axle wrap which of course is what you are wanting to avoid. The pro comp style bar is only useful for track vehicles who drag race.
what you want is a Anti-wrap bar, these reduce or eliminate axle wrap that is induced when you use a block between the axle and leaf springs.
your best bet is to get rid of the block.
( why I recommend the 22415 rear spring)
but if you must have a block, the only style of “traction” bar that works without binding your suspension is the 1/2 leaf like your Excursion had stock or a bar with a shackle on the frame end.
The problem with the procomp “Traction” bars is they do not allow the suspension to move, they bind the suspension and for the axle to move up or down the axle must rotate which of course IS axle wrap which of course is what you are wanting to avoid. The pro comp style bar is only useful for track vehicles who drag race.
what you want is a Anti-wrap bar, these reduce or eliminate axle wrap that is induced when you use a block between the axle and leaf springs.
your best bet is to get rid of the block.
( why I recommend the 22415 rear spring)
but if you must have a block, the only style of “traction” bar that works without binding your suspension is the 1/2 leaf like your Excursion had stock or a bar with a shackle on the frame end.
Can you weld on the axle tube (with enough heat to actually stick the parts together) while the axle is still installed in the truck?? Or will the heat destroy the oil & axle seals and warp the tube if tried?
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Can you weld on the axle tube (with enough heat to actually stick the parts together) while the axle is still installed in the truck?? Or will the heat destroy the oil & axle seals and warp the tube if tried?
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I think this is a great question
My answer as a guy who does weld inspections ( steel buildings) is YES
but its more complicated than yes, how close to the actual seal location will the weld be ?
the oil will be fine and the axle itself will be fine
As long as the guy welding takes time to let things cool without welding it at once. I would weld a couple inches at a time and move to another spot or stop to let things cool.
I am interested to hear what others have to say with regards to seals though , since I'm not sure where they all lie.
Can you weld on the axle tube (with enough heat to actually stick the parts together) while the axle is still installed in the truck?? Or will the heat destroy the oil & axle seals and warp the tube if tried?
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I try not to under estimate peoples ability to **** stuff up so I don't want to say you can't warp it. I will just say I have welded plenty of link mounts on axle tubes without warping them.
I plan on welding where noted below, how does the differential case mate to the axle tube ( housing ) ?
This looks lie a joint itself. ?
From what I can make out these tube's aren't very straight to begin with so warping should not be an issue
(unless a massive amount of heat is added to a concentrated area)
BTW - do you happen to know the thickness of this tube ?
I am guessing its at least 3/16"
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Traction Bars
