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From an electrical engineering standpoint...bigger is always better. Electrons flow on the outer surface of a conductor...so the more surface area you have in a conductor, the more current carrying capability you have. This is the reason that multi-stranded wire is always rated higher than other wire. Welding cable has some of the highest current ratings and is very flexible and easy to install.
The "possible stranding" in that table seems to show "count/AWG" of the strand... so 2/0 would have 1248 strands of 30 gauge packaged up to make the 2/0 cable. As you say, welding cable has a higher count of strands of a smaller size leading to more flexibility compared to a counterpart that may use fewer strands of a larger wire gauge size. However, the table doesn't consistently show that leading to both of us now scratching our heads...
This is getting off into the weeds here, but it's my understanding that DC current flows through the entire conductor. High frequency AC does exhibit a "skin effect" and travel mostly on the outside.
One criticism of using welding cable (supposedly) is that while of course the wire itself is excellent, the insulation is not rated for automotive use. The abrasion resistance is good, but welding cable, the outer covering is not rated for exposure to gas and oil. I've never heard of any problems from this, but that's what "they" say. (And you know how "they" are!)
Be careful of something called CCA, they aren't talking about cold cranking amps, but "copper coated aluminum" cable. It isn't going to work like the real mccoy. Make sure to get pure AWG copper, if that's what you're paying for. Cheap terminals suck, good ones are copper, with a zinc wash. These can be loosened and tightened repeatedly without deforming. It is important that battery and ground connections are tightened securely.
Just be sure to keep your hood closed if you buy the good 2/0 stuff - your local tweakers & meth heads will be salivating about those and cooking up a little midnight salvage requisition expedition.
This is getting off into the weeds here, but it's my understanding that DC current flows through the entire conductor. High frequency AC does exhibit a "skin effect" and travel mostly on the outside.
Actually, technically, any AC voltage will have skin effect, and that's due to the alternating and opposing eddy currents that create a magnetic field. The depth of the skin effect will vary with the voltage and frequency (Hz).
From my personal experience of working with welding cable in the oily bilges of ships, that is not an issue. There is a shipyard saying that goes "If you ever fall, just grab onto a welding cable because it will never pay out more than seven feet." I think any welder can verify that.
What about the cables that some of the suppliers sell for stock appearing trucks? I think they're made by Vintique, to look like factory correct, are those cables generally any good? Or they just look original?
I'd bet they are OK, or at least the equal of the OEM.
It's those el-cheapo generics in the blister pacs, avoid these, some of them even have extra thick insulation to make the wire gauge look heavier than it is. There's no crimping involved, they just use plumbing solder and stuff the wire ends into crappy terminals and ring ends.
I would suggest getting actual battery cables. Underhood temperatures can get quite high (240 F) and welding cables are not insulated with material to withstand underhood temperatures. Here is a kit from Ron Francis Wiring 1 ga. wire and insulated with material to withstand underhood temperatures up to 255F.
Do not "make do" with some other cable, use an actual battery cable engineered to do the job. RFW has other kits of different lengths and battery terminal types to meet your need.
Summit Racing is a dealer for Ron Francis so you may get a better price.
Why does one need flexible cable for your battery cable? Welding cable is constantly dragged around and location changed repeatedly. Battery cables are in the same place all the time, maybe moved a bit to clean the terminals or disconnect from the battery but for the most part they stay in one spot.
Ed
near Philadelphia
One needs to remember Bessie is 54 with the battery under the passenger floor board. The positive ground would get no heat. The long negative hot cable goes to the solenoid on the frame under the cab (unless it's like my late production 54 and had the solenoid on the firewall). Then the third cable goes to the starter which is low and away from heat.
My local auto-electric shop made my cables from welding cable knowing where they go. He would not have used them if he knew the cables could not take heat.
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