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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

reverse lights, battery isolator

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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 11:40 AM
  #1  
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rrawlins
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From: Bearspaw (near Calgary)
reverse lights, battery isolator, funny signal lights

I can't find the connection on my 69 f250 crew 4x4 for the reverse lights. It has a np235 tranny, dana 24 transfer.

Also I went to hook up a battery isolator I've got. It has 3 terminals. (1) main bat. (2) alt. (3) aux bat. Now i just assumed i'd take the stock wire that runs from the alt. to the starter relay and wire that to the (2) alt. terminal on the isolator and then from the (1)main batt. on isolator to +batt terminal on starter relay, where the original alt wire originally ran to. No luck. What am i missing?

My running/park lights work until i pull the headlight switch out one more click to turn on the headlights. Then my running lights switch off. Signals work fine. Is this normal? I thought not until my son-in-law and I were working on his 1970 intenational pickup truck. It does the identical thing. I assume the running lights should be on when the headlights are on, right?
 

Last edited by rrawlins; Oct 23, 2003 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 01:43 PM
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From: Coal country
The running lights going off during headlight operation is normal for that year range. I do not know the exact year, but I believe it was '72 or '73 where the running lights stayed on when the headlights are on.

Can't help on the isolator. I'm not knowlegable on those.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 01:44 PM
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From: Thomson, GA
For the reverse lights, my 3 speed has a little arm on the shift linkage on the steering column directly under the brake master cylinder.


Not sure about the other things.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 03:19 PM
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On my 87 Ranger the isolater is wired from the positive post on the battery/to a fuse/to a large post on the isolater. Other large post is wired to the trailer connector-to keep a travel trailer battery charged. The small post on the isolater is wired to a source that is hot only when the key is at the run position.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 08:25 PM
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From: Black Hills of SD
You should have a plug right in the side of the shift tower on the tranny for the backup lights. It may be hard to see without a mirror ot taking out the tunnel cover. I have installed a few of those isolators and had trouble with a couple of them even following the directions. I put one in my 78 chevy bus and it would only start if I put a jumper from the Alt. to the #1 batt. terminals. On the original dual battery setup Ford used a continueous duty relay or solenoid, It looks almost like a starter solenoid but is rated for continueous duty. It only powers up when your key is on apparently and isolates the extra battery when your engine is off.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 09:35 PM
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From: Bearspaw (near Calgary)
battery isolator

Thanks for the other info folks. The battery isolator I have is a standard aftermarket isolator NOT the ford solenoid relay style. It is a small rect. finned box and on the top it has 3 pin connectors labelled (1)Main (2)Alt and (3)Aux. I assumed (dang that word gets me into trouble) the hookup would be straight forward. I was wrong. I hooked it up the obvious way, red wire from alt. to (2)alt pin on isolator, from (1)pin on isolator to + terminal on starter relay and... no power. I'm missing something obvious here.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2003 | 06:25 PM
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Well that is the correct way to hook it up??????? Maybe the isolator is "toast".......or how about a broken wire or bad connection??
Was the alternator charging the battery prior to the isolator installation?
 
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