Big 3 upgrade?
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 987
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From: Bass Lake, CA
Big 3 upgrade?
Has anyone done this? I searched 5 different ways, cannot find anything.
I am planning this out for my 16 screw. I notices a black ring that surrounds all of the ground wires going to the battery.
I was wondering if anyone knows, but will I create an issue if I run a 4 gauge ground outside of this little plastic ring? I presume this measures current or something, I am not sure of it's purpose, but i do know auto manufacturers are as cheap as possible, so they don't add things for no reason.
Thanks for any tips, or advice prior to starting this upgrade.
I am planning this out for my 16 screw. I notices a black ring that surrounds all of the ground wires going to the battery.
I was wondering if anyone knows, but will I create an issue if I run a 4 gauge ground outside of this little plastic ring? I presume this measures current or something, I am not sure of it's purpose, but i do know auto manufacturers are as cheap as possible, so they don't add things for no reason.
Thanks for any tips, or advice prior to starting this upgrade.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 243
From: GA
Modern / newer vehicles monitor the voltage / current so doing the Big 3 in some vehicles can have a negative effect.
Call a competent car audio shop and ask them if they’ve see said Big 3 issues on F150’s.
Five Star Car Stereo out of Clearwater FL does a ton of F150’s so they’ll be able to let you know.
Call a competent car audio shop and ask them if they’ve see said Big 3 issues on F150’s.
Five Star Car Stereo out of Clearwater FL does a ton of F150’s so they’ll be able to let you know.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 987
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From: Bass Lake, CA
Thought I would update this for folks in the future.
After much research, I found that you DO NOT want to bypass the hall effect sensor.
I was not able to get 1/0 wire through the sensor, but I was able to use a pair of 4 gauge wires to fit through. it was tight, but they fit.
Also upgraded to a 70amp/hr AGM battery, 1/0 wire to the amp area behind the rear seat required 16' of wire.
I am getting 14.7v @ idle at my amplifiers, and it drops down to 13.9 at full boogey (clamping 3300w)
My truck has a 230a alternator, and it works excellent.
After much research, I found that you DO NOT want to bypass the hall effect sensor.
I was not able to get 1/0 wire through the sensor, but I was able to use a pair of 4 gauge wires to fit through. it was tight, but they fit.
Also upgraded to a 70amp/hr AGM battery, 1/0 wire to the amp area behind the rear seat required 16' of wire.
I am getting 14.7v @ idle at my amplifiers, and it drops down to 13.9 at full boogey (clamping 3300w)
My truck has a 230a alternator, and it works excellent.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,458
Likes: 722
From: Calgary Canada
Matt, what led you to believe that bypassing the BMS Sensor would cause issues, and also, what led you to believe that doing this "big three" upgrade would benefit you? My electrical knowledge is quite weak on these newer trucks, so I'm always happy to learn.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 987
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From: Bass Lake, CA
I researched several car audio websites regarding big 3 upgrades. The shade tree guys said it doesn't matter, the professionals unanimously agreed, do NOT bypass that sensor, as it plays a role in determining the alternators output.
Some folks had dash lights come on, some had chronic low voltage readings at their amps/distribution blocks. I did not want any of that mess, so i used two 4 gauge wires in place of a 1/0. Some extra ground is better than none right?
the alternator power wire I left in place, only adding a 1/0 wire from the output post direct to the battery.
Why, well I upgraded my audio system from a 700w 5 channel amplifier by deleting the subwoofer channel, and adding a dedicated 3000w subwoofer amplifier.
That amp alone has a max current draw of 333amps. I wont be using that much, but there is certainly a chance max current between both amplifiers could reach 300amps.
Some folks had dash lights come on, some had chronic low voltage readings at their amps/distribution blocks. I did not want any of that mess, so i used two 4 gauge wires in place of a 1/0. Some extra ground is better than none right?
the alternator power wire I left in place, only adding a 1/0 wire from the output post direct to the battery.
Why, well I upgraded my audio system from a 700w 5 channel amplifier by deleting the subwoofer channel, and adding a dedicated 3000w subwoofer amplifier.
That amp alone has a max current draw of 333amps. I wont be using that much, but there is certainly a chance max current between both amplifiers could reach 300amps.
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