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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Head Bolts

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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 02:49 PM
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From: Sudbury
Head Bolts

I am freshening up my 1951 Ford Flathead V8 - 8BA with a gasket change, plugs, wires, repaint etc. The engine ran fine before I started my project and the compression was good.
I note that some of the head bolts are marked "S" and some "H"....I am assuming with is a length designation, but would like to know the real answer.
Also, can I reuse these bolts or should I purchase new ones.
Thanks

Flipper 55
1951 F#
 
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 03:12 PM
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Original Ford bolts have no "S" or "H" markings that I've ever seen. Could be those are replacements. The originals were a tight thread spec, replacements may or may not be. Can you measure their lengths under the heads? I have a spare set I can compare to.

With the OEM bolts it isn't necessary to replace unless they are visibly stretched or corroded.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 06:47 AM
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Thanks.....I will remove some bolts this weekend and get back to you with the measurements.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 07:33 PM
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Hey Flipper, don't run a tap in your block to clean up the threads when you have the studs out. They say it can make the hole threads loose.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
Hey Flipper, don't run a tap in your block to clean up the threads when you have the studs out. They say it can make the hole threads loose.
I ran a tap through all the holes to clean out the old, what seemed like dried Permatex. Didn't seem to make any difference, and I applied Rector Seal #5 to the headbolt threads before I did a three stage torque down. No problems, even after a good warm up and a hot re-torque. Who are "they"?



 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 12:54 AM
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Thread chasers are the proper way to clean out the holes in the block, without reducing the tight fit of the threads. A set of chasers is only about $10 for Made in the USA:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900203
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:44 AM
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Well I probably spend too much time looking at these sites now that I am retired! Anyway I was just trying to tell you not to do that with a tap because that would be exactly what I would do with a engine. But while following threads about flathead Fords on The Hamb and Ford Barn I see how many of "them" caution not to run a regular tap down the stud holes on a flatty. Cuz I read that afterwards it can be hard to keep coolant from seeping up thru the threads. I've never even owned a flathead so definitively not a expert.....
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:52 AM
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Here's one. you can look around and find lots more, these old Hot Rod guys appear??? to know flattys, You may want to look thru some more and see what is recommended for sealer, etc.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...amber.1197917/
 
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 04:07 PM
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I note that there are 14 - 2-5/8" bolts and 10 - 1-3/4" bolts (approx) per side. Would there be a diagram available to show where each different size of bolt is to be reinstalled back in the head/block?

I am embarrassed to say that I never keep track of the bolt locations when I was removing them....Rookie mistake!

Flipper55
 
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