e150 idling problem
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2020
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e150 idling problem
Hi there,
I have a problem with my 302 every time i stop the van, having the brakes applied and leave the transmission in D. What it does is:
- the idle gets a bit too low
- the oil pressure gauge starts jumping around
- sometimes it seems like the van wants to jump forward
- it used to die off sometimes, but i changed the idle air control valve the other day, and i think that fixed it (but the issues above are still there)
When i put it in neutral, the idling is fine.
It only does this when it's hot
anyone have any ideas?
regards. Willem
I have a problem with my 302 every time i stop the van, having the brakes applied and leave the transmission in D. What it does is:
- the idle gets a bit too low
- the oil pressure gauge starts jumping around
- sometimes it seems like the van wants to jump forward
- it used to die off sometimes, but i changed the idle air control valve the other day, and i think that fixed it (but the issues above are still there)
When i put it in neutral, the idling is fine.
It only does this when it's hot
anyone have any ideas?
regards. Willem
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 96
Likes: 4
not looking forward to that. with this van nearly everything is almost impossible to reach in there
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2020
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I just finished checking the vacuum lines, they all seem to be fine. I especially had a good look at the green one that goes from the back of the engine to the top of the EGR valve, thats also solid.
When i switch off the engine i do hear a soft gurgling noise, is that normal?
When i switch off the engine i do hear a soft gurgling noise, is that normal?
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Cross-Country
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Also, i noticed a little thing that looks like a solenoid or something, its like a cylinder of 3 inches tall mounted to the throttle body. It has a rubber line that goes into the throttle body, between the two mounting points for the air intake hoses that go to the air cleaner. What is that thing for?
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Cross-Country
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Well i can imagine i'm starting to sound a bit random at this point, so i decided to make a few videos
Today i also checked the EGR valve positioning sensor, it gets roughly 4 Volts and gives about 4 kOhms. I guess that's ok too.
Here arethe video's, it's probably a bit too dark, but maybe you can hear the idle going up and down, and the car bogging when in Drive
Oh, and the oil pressure is jumping in the wrong direction because i replaced the sensor for one used for a warning light
Any ideas would be much appreciated!!!
Today i also checked the EGR valve positioning sensor, it gets roughly 4 Volts and gives about 4 kOhms. I guess that's ok too.
Here arethe video's, it's probably a bit too dark, but maybe you can hear the idle going up and down, and the car bogging when in Drive
Oh, and the oil pressure is jumping in the wrong direction because i replaced the sensor for one used for a warning light
Any ideas would be much appreciated!!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,784
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2020
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I did some research and i think i have another possible cause: Could it be slack in the timing chain? When i start the engine cold i hear some loud knocking in the front (thought it was the water pump). At cold idle it makes some random metallic noises that go away when the engine warms up. Sometimes its very difficult to start for no apparent reason.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: N.W. Alabama
Miles? A way to check timing chain, is remove distributor cap, watch the rotary button, mark the crank, have someone, try to rotate crank slowly, clockwise, and when you see the rotary button move, stop, note where mark on crank is, then rotate crank, counter clockwise, slowly, when you see rotary button move, stop, note where mark is on crank, again, I think its, any more than 10-15 degree of movement, before rotary button moves, means timing chain needs, replacing.