Heated mirror swap question.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 470
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From: Aurora Colorado
Heated mirror swap question.
Hey all, I did some searching but couldn't quite come up with an answer.
I picked up for 2012 F550 Mirrors. $400 for the pair. I was skeptical on going aftermarket due to the complaints about the glass. Anyway. I wired mine up like I saw in the video below. Both heater wires go to a 30amp switch. 1 leg goes to ground and the other to Key on power. Fuse 29 in the box. I used a fuse adapter so the 10 is there and a hot lead with a 5amp fuse to power the mirrors. This video doesn't have a relay in at all.
They did start warming up and were good. I started the truck to move it and noticed while I was in the truck with it running the light on the switch was out. 5amp fuse had blown. From the reading I've done they only draw 1.4 amps per side. so a 5amp fuse should be good enough. I do plan to wire up the running lights and blinkers eventually but we're going to start getting some snow and ice soon so the heated mirror part is more of a priority.
Any ideas on what the issue could be? Thanks!
I picked up for 2012 F550 Mirrors. $400 for the pair. I was skeptical on going aftermarket due to the complaints about the glass. Anyway. I wired mine up like I saw in the video below. Both heater wires go to a 30amp switch. 1 leg goes to ground and the other to Key on power. Fuse 29 in the box. I used a fuse adapter so the 10 is there and a hot lead with a 5amp fuse to power the mirrors. This video doesn't have a relay in at all.
They did start warming up and were good. I started the truck to move it and noticed while I was in the truck with it running the light on the switch was out. 5amp fuse had blown. From the reading I've done they only draw 1.4 amps per side. so a 5amp fuse should be good enough. I do plan to wire up the running lights and blinkers eventually but we're going to start getting some snow and ice soon so the heated mirror part is more of a priority.
Any ideas on what the issue could be? Thanks!
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Just to be clear on the mirror ground, you ran a ground wire from the black wire pin in the mirror harness to the door? The heater wires in the mirror harness are gray, running lights are blue, turn signals pink.
What gauge wire did you run? From where? Fuse box in cab, battery?
The switch you are referring to, I assume a basic switch with 2 wire tabs? On the wire supplying 12v to the relay, you would have 12v coming into the switch and the 12v out of the switch to trigger the relay on, or straight to the mirrors if you aren't using a relay. The switch shouldn't go to ground, unless it is a lighted switch with 3 wire tabs
What gauge wire did you run? From where? Fuse box in cab, battery?
The switch you are referring to, I assume a basic switch with 2 wire tabs? On the wire supplying 12v to the relay, you would have 12v coming into the switch and the 12v out of the switch to trigger the relay on, or straight to the mirrors if you aren't using a relay. The switch shouldn't go to ground, unless it is a lighted switch with 3 wire tabs
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: Aurora Colorado
Just to be clear on the mirror ground, you ran a ground wire from the black wire pin in the mirror harness to the door? The heater wires in the mirror harness are gray, running lights are blue, turn signals pink.
What gauge wire did you run? From where? Fuse box in cab, battery?
The switch you are referring to, I assume a basic switch with 2 wire tabs? On the wire supplying 12v to the relay, you would have 12v coming into the switch and the 12v out of the switch to trigger the relay on, or straight to the mirrors if you aren't using a relay. The switch shouldn't go to ground, unless it is a lighted switch with 3 wire tabs
What gauge wire did you run? From where? Fuse box in cab, battery?
The switch you are referring to, I assume a basic switch with 2 wire tabs? On the wire supplying 12v to the relay, you would have 12v coming into the switch and the 12v out of the switch to trigger the relay on, or straight to the mirrors if you aren't using a relay. The switch shouldn't go to ground, unless it is a lighted switch with 3 wire tabs
16 gauge wire. Fuse box in cab #29
It is a 3 prong switch with an LED on it. Earth to ground, load to mirrors, supply from Fuse box #29
Hope that explains it. I plan on getting a relay tomorrow to see if it works that way.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Wire sounds heavy enough for fuse box. Was thinking maybe if you used 20 gauge from battery you might be overloading them.
Have you tried bypassing the switch to take it out of the equation? Temporarily of course. If you are popping the fuse without a relay you might be adding more troubleshooting headache adding one at this point is all. 3 amps combined for the 2 mirror's heaters, I don't see the switch illumination pulling the other 2 amps even with potential voltage drop over the wire length. Did you run any form of wire loom, or electrical tape? That opening in the cab from the door seal boot is pretty small, potentially a short location with driving vibration or too short of wire length left for door opening/closing
Have you tried bypassing the switch to take it out of the equation? Temporarily of course. If you are popping the fuse without a relay you might be adding more troubleshooting headache adding one at this point is all. 3 amps combined for the 2 mirror's heaters, I don't see the switch illumination pulling the other 2 amps even with potential voltage drop over the wire length. Did you run any form of wire loom, or electrical tape? That opening in the cab from the door seal boot is pretty small, potentially a short location with driving vibration or too short of wire length left for door opening/closing
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 470
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From: Aurora Colorado
I used trailer wiring to go through the rubber grommet between the door and the cab. Nothing is taped. All wire has been crimped into connectors. There is slack in so it's not tight in the door or under the dash. I have not tried bypassing the switch yet. I did wire up a relay. like the image below and it blew the new 5amp fuse I put in.
I did find 1 fusebox diagram for a F-550 2011-2016 located here https://www.autogenius.info/ford-f-5...e-box-diagram/
In this page it shows in the engine compartment box position # 7 the rear window defroster and heated mirrors share a 50A Relay. Also it shows in position 17 "heated mirror" shows a 15A fuse. I'm wondering if the F550 mirrors magically take more amps for some reason. I'm tempted to try a 15A fuse.. Worst case is the truck catches fire and burns down.. I won't have to worry about doing a body swap later since it's rusted so bad right now. =)
I did find 1 fusebox diagram for a F-550 2011-2016 located here https://www.autogenius.info/ford-f-5...e-box-diagram/
In this page it shows in the engine compartment box position # 7 the rear window defroster and heated mirrors share a 50A Relay. Also it shows in position 17 "heated mirror" shows a 15A fuse. I'm wondering if the F550 mirrors magically take more amps for some reason. I'm tempted to try a 15A fuse.. Worst case is the truck catches fire and burns down.. I won't have to worry about doing a body swap later since it's rusted so bad right now. =)
Last edited by SpectreZ91; Nov 7, 2020 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Inserting image.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Aurora Colorado
Update so I don't leave anyone hanging. Since the 2012 F550 calls for a 15A fuse I decided to step it up from 5A to 10A As the customer access fuse I'm using maxes out at 10A. With the 10A they heat up nice and have not had any issues.. I let the truck run for awhile. Even shut it down and used the remote start like I normally would. No issues. So It looks like I can call this one done. Now I just need to get the energy up to wire in the running lights and turn signals. heh.
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Glad you got it figured out. I watched that same video recently while contemplating how to wire up the turn signals/running lights/mirror heat on my '08+ mirrors.
Some good links here for wiring up those mirrors with a conversion harness if desired.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19332774
I've read these mirrors draw about 4A each, and are typically fused at 15A for the pair. If the 10A fuse is working for you, and the wire is sized for 10A continuous, I think you're good. Generally want to have the fuse carrying no more than 80% of the rated current.
Some good links here for wiring up those mirrors with a conversion harness if desired.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19332774
I've read these mirrors draw about 4A each, and are typically fused at 15A for the pair. If the 10A fuse is working for you, and the wire is sized for 10A continuous, I think you're good. Generally want to have the fuse carrying no more than 80% of the rated current.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
I've also read the 1.4amp draw from many overseas aftermarket mirrors, yet some say 4 amps each. The OEM mirrors I've read up on are all pulling 4 amps each, usually on a factory fusebox dedicated 15 amp or some on 30 amp fuse.
Stepping up fuse size sounded like the right call, as long as you stay under your wire size limit I wouldn't worry about it going forward. Nice job, thanks for the update
Stepping up fuse size sounded like the right call, as long as you stay under your wire size limit I wouldn't worry about it going forward. Nice job, thanks for the update
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
The running lights will be the brown wire coming off the headlight switch.
Right turn signal is the white wire with a blue stripe
Left turn signal is a green wire with a white stripe
Turn signal wires will be coming down under the steering column from the hazzard switch. There will be two of each colored wire in the bundle, the wire going to the hazard and coming back from the hazards. There are reports of some people having the mirror turn signals coming on when they use the brake, they tied into the wire coming from the hazard vs the wire going to it. If that happens to you just tie in to the other wire, and tape up the wire you tied into
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