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OK, today I was trying to remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder of my truck.
2004 F150 Triton 5.4L 3valve with close to 300,000 miles on it. (I just bought it, so have no idea when the latest plug change was... if ever)
When I finally got the socket to fit over the spark plug hex nut... and got it to back out.
I ended up with this:
The spark plug was still in the motor...
WTF!?
I put this thing back in and tightened it up.... closed the hood and slowly backed away. I am at a loss for words.
Has the sparkplug carbon welded itself to the block?
How do I get the spark plug out? After I got this piece out, I looked and it's just "round" down there and it ain't budgin'...
I didn't want to break anything... further than what I had already done...
So now what?
Well I take it you didn't follow the procedure. Did you use a impact and oil? When you tackle these engines you want the extractor set, 9/16" deep plug socket, penetrating oil, impact, nickel anti seize, current spec motorcraft plugs, new boots and springs, dielectric grease, torque wrench and the patience of a Saint. There is lots of good tutorials here but you must h e everything ready for this task and not skip steps. Biggest mistake is using a ratchet and not a impact for extraction.
Well I take it you didn't follow the procedure. Did you use a impact and oil? When you tackle these engines you want the extractor set, 9/16" deep plug socket, penetrating oil, impact, nickel anti seize, current spec motorcraft plugs, new boots and springs, dielectric grease, torque wrench and the patience of a Saint. There is lots of good tutorials here but you must h e everything ready for this task and not skip steps. Biggest mistake is using a ratchet and not a impact for extraction.
Well, you have most of it right. We did use penetrating oil... but no impact. I was just trying to get the plug out to test it. (Diagnosing an engine code problem)
Can't hurt to try ,let her soak . It will dissolve carbon if it can get to it. I suppose you know about the lisle extractor kit .Lots of youtube vids on extracting broken plugs . Worst case you will have to pull head . Depending on condition of engine and truck body you may want to consider a reman at the very worst . At 300k I would not put a lot of money in this engine .
This is what the plug look like.. the bottom half broke off and is stuck in the bore in the head.. The "TOOL" the guys talk about will drill into the center, then an extractor to pull it out... Dont hurt to soak with penetrant first.
Its good to review the ford tsb when doing plugs . But most guys disagree with using a cold engine ,and they favor using a impact . Always have the lisle extraction tool available .Soaking with carb cleaner in hole can soften the carbon around plugs But you have to move plug a quarter of a turn every now and then to get it past threads , which also should be done when plug out. That carbon is hell on plugs and can break them going in and out . Some of us still put a small amount of nickle antiseize on threads and snout of plug . I personally use champion 7989 plugs and never had another problem . They are proven stronger and they are true double platinum, I doubt if they are being counterfeited like the MC.
I have seen tip failures on MC but I don't know if that's because they were counterfeited .
I've never tried the impact gun as I never knew it may work. I used to crack the plug loose a bit, add the carb cleaner and let it sit overnight. I never had one break off in the head fortunately but some had definitely stretched the barrel crimp and the two piece was now loose. I've only done 3 vehicles though.
I took my truck at 80,000 miles to 3 different shops (years ago) and none of them would even touch it. Didn't want the business. Dealer wanted like $900 bucks and that's IF ALL THE PLUGS CAME OUT without breaking.
Found a "shade tree" Ford guy in my shop at the airline where I worked. We ran a high dose of Seafoam in the fuel tank for a week. Then night before ran 2 cans directly into the manifold and immediately shut it off. Cracked the plugs loose and soaked them with Liquid Wrench or some such (not WD40) The next day more lubricant and slowly backed them out. Once we got the plugs changed ran it real hard to clean out the loose carbon and the left over Seafoam
Then changed the oil.
At about 140,000 miles wanted to change them again, shops STILL would not take the job even with the new style plugs. Went back to shade tree guy, And again at 200,000. The Triton is a fine engine. But that was sure a stupid design for a spark plug. BTW we did have the extraction kit on hand at the time.
Have a look. I had 6 come out OK, one broke just the top, and the last came out just like yours, upper shell only leaving porcelain in with center electrode, was #8, ... all the way back. Got a porcelain puller for the Lisle tool, knock it out fast thyen. See thread.
Spark Plug Change
