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TFI Replacement

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Old Oct 22, 2003 | 09:03 PM
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jclopezv
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From: Stamford, CT
Question TFI Replacement

Does anyone know how many hours should I expect to be charge for the change of the TFI module and rotator? I already bought the parts (rotator and tfi module)
Bronco II XLT 1987 2.9L auto, 4WD - 103,000 miles.

Thank you,
JC


 
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Old Oct 22, 2003 | 09:45 PM
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From: Monument, CO
Rotator? Do you mean the rotor under the distibutor cap? Or possibly the stator that goes inside the distributor?

I don't know how long the book says it should take, but I can change a TFI module on my 90 B2 in about 15 minutes. The rotor under the distributor cap would take just a little longer, maybe 20 minutes. But the stator requires the distributor to be removed and partially dismantled, so it would be significantly longer. At least an hour for an experienced mechanic (my guess, worth less than you paid for it).
 
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 08:37 AM
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jclopezv
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Yes, it is the stator. Thank you for the guidance.
Probably a "mechanic" will work on it this saturday. I will tell you how it come.
Thank you
 
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Old Oct 26, 2003 | 01:53 PM
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Ryan and everybody Thanks for your help. I decided to go to the shop, they charged $140 (2.0 hr). The truck is running great, the engine haven't suddenly die (like it used to do) this weekend, in other words: so far so good!!

The only thing I was expecting to improve but it didn't was to get the RPM (parking) idle at 800. I still have to start it a couple of times every morning, but, when is a extremly cold morning the engine doesn't turn off; weird isn't it?.

Another change that I do not know if it is related with the new TFI and Stator is that when the engine was cold the transmission used to slip, now looks like it doesn't happend anymore and also the shifts are smoother. even more weird, isn't it?

again... Thank you!
 
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 12:24 PM
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Here is a procedure that Ryan gave me, thank you again.

"I went to replace my stator and TFI module after the truck just quit
while I was headed out of the neighborhood. To replace the stator you
need to remove the distributor. Unbolt the hold down deep behind the
intake manifold. But before you do that take time to label all the plug
wires and remove them from the cap. Mark the number one plug tower on
the cap. Mark the orientation of the rotor button on the side of the
distributor housing. Do not turn the motor over while the distributor is
out. As you pull the distributor out it will turn because of the spiral
cut gear on the bottom. Once the distributor drive gear is free, mark
again the orientation of the rotor button somewhere on the motor. You
make these marks to show you exactly where to aim the rotor button when
you put the distributor back in so you do not have to retime the car.
Once out turn the distributor over and find the drift pin in the drive
gear. Punch it out with a hammer and small punch. Some people say the
gear should come off easily. Mine had to be pulled off with a gear
puller. Once the gear is off you can remove the shaft and access the
stator. Once you put the shaft back in the gear can be remounted with a
deep socket and a hammer. Be very careful and align the holes for the
drift pin up. Also do not get so big a socket that you are hammering on
the teeth of the gear, it will break(ask me how I know). If it does
break replacements are available through a company called Motormite. I
got mine on line from RockAuto. Put the pin in and reinstall remembering
to line up the marks you made when pulling it off. This job is not hard
mechanically but is very frustrating and time consuming. If you have
plenty of time go for it. But if you are time limited I would take this
to a shop. I would if I have to do it again. Not worth the aggravation
in my book.

Ryan Brenneman
 

Last edited by Ken00; Nov 6, 2003 at 05:26 PM.
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