When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
79 f250 2wheel drive 460
I bought a steering pump from ORillies, it lasted for about 10mins. What is a good brand to buy? Yes it was flush and bled. It just sucks to do it all over again. Or is it just my bad luck
Cheapest part is not always best part, get the top shelf from them and try that. Are you 100% sure you bleed it correctly?
Bleed p/s the FORD way and it works every time!!!
1- Hook everything up
2- Fill with fluid
3- Jack up front of truck off of ground (Both front wheels) or pop off pitman arm from sector shaft.
4- Disconnect or Disable coil (So Truck CANNOT start)
5- Turn Steering wheel lock to lock about 5 to 10 times
6- Top off Fluid
7- Repeat Step 5
8- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
9- Crank engine over (Ignition Disabled) and turn steering lock to lock 5 to 10 times
10- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
11- Repeat Step 9
12- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
13- Enable Ignition
14- Start Truck and turn Lock to Lock 5-10 times
15- Turn off Truck
16- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
17- Repeat Step 14
18- Repeat Step 15
19- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
20- Let Truck Down off of Jacks or jack Stands
21- Repeat Step 14
22- Steering should work just fine, have all the air bled out and have a quiet pump to boot!!!
If that does not work I would suggest swapping to a Saginaw box. You can get the brackets (and hydroboost set up) from a 1977/78 LTD with a 460 or even better get the Sag box and brackets from 1975-91 Econoline with a 351W or (M?) /460.
I know you have been around the block many times. But, I have changed my steering box and pump 3 times (Saginaw box Thompson pump) and have never bleed it down once. I fill the pump up and start the motor, warm it up while cycling the front end, check the fluid level while running and that's it. This system is a fluid in, fluid out system. What is there to bleed? Correct me if I'm wrong but you check fluid level hot and running.
You make me sound like a street walker. Lol I posted that for the OP so he was following Ford's way of doing it. I also believe that bleed procedures is for a COMPLETE system bleed, like when replacing the p/s pump, steering box and lines. Like you opened it all the way up and drained everything.
I concur to ck while hot and running or just hot.
This is what I used when I replaced the steering box on my Bronco and that system was bone dry from a cracked steering box. West Coast Broncos
Oh man no harm, no foul and I did not take it that way. I even added an Lol in there to be sure. I just wanted to explain my way of thinking, that is all. That way the next guy that reads it get the whole picture. It's all good.
Number Dummy once posted these thoughts to ponder and I like them.“The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”
"Have you heard of "whole sight?" It's seeing the entire picture using the mind and emotion rather than one or the other. Whole sight prevents instances like we are having here." CLASSIC ND
It was bled like the above and the steering felt normal. I could tell something was up after a few miles, made a left turn to turn around and nothing, Back to strong arm steering, pull over check fluid, full and no leaks. Pump is nice and quiet, buddy say bad pump and looks like bypass is the problem? O'well just going to have to do it all over again with another pump from a different parts house as these guy can't find another one from their search. Also out of a core.
77& 79 F250 Nice detailed instructions.
maybe I have been taking too many short cuts is why it takes so long to remove all the air,,
Will try these this time.
Good info.
Alex
BTW- (The street walker thing was funny stuff made me laugh I enjoy good clean humor) LOL
When a pump goes bad it sends all it's crap right to the box, so I always rebuild it. Even if you could get all the crap bled out of the system I'd still wonder about the piston seals condition as well as the bore. Just throwing a new pump on can be risky and I'd suspect that's what killed that reman.
Did another test drive this morning. When cold you can see the fluid circulate and have good/easy steering, how ever drive two mile and it back to strong arm steering again, I see that the fluid is not circulating even at hi idle. Anyways got a pump at Napa, but ran out of fluid after another good flush. Going to have to wait till tomorrow. For now it's time for a motorcycle ride
When a pump goes bad it sends all it's crap right to the box, so I always rebuild it. Even if you could get all the crap bled out of the system I'd still wonder about the piston seals condition as well as the bore. Just throwing a new pump on can be risky and I'd suspect that's what killed that reman.
Mark A.
10-4 on all what you said. Even when I replaced my steering gear box with a RedHead on my 91 Cherokee I rebuilt and drive I replaced the pump. and hoses. It was too many $$$ for the Redhead not to.
Although, I have replaced many squealing and wining pumps with no problems except for the time for air to dissipate.
That is why I liked the in depth sequence that was posted by 77&79F250.....
79 f250 2wheel drive 460
I bought a steering pump from ORillies, it lasted for about 10mins. What is a good brand to buy? Yes it was flush and bled. It just sucks to do it all over again. Or is it just my bad luck
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.