duraspark 2 wiring
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duraspark 2 wiring
hi new member,first post,i have a 1984 ford motorhome,5.8 engine only runs if key is in start position,replaced ignition switch and module same issue,tested wiring and 2 prong plug at ecm has white wire hot in run position ,red has nothing seeking answers thanks
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From: Virginia
Red should be hot during cranking. I think some of the modules had the colors reversed. If you want to see if you are barking up the right tree, jump the two wires together and see if it will keep running.
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jumping wires together changed nothing,as soon as key returns to run truck dies
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Some of the chassis/vehicle harnesses can have the colours reversed So you can have a white wire on the vehicle harness going to a red wire on the module and the red wire on the vehicle harness going to a white wire on the module.
The white wire on the module should have power in Start (ICM Start) The red wire on the module should have power in run (ICM Run)
If the red wire on the module does not have power in run, the engine will quit as soon as the key is released from start.
Testing for power should always be done on the vehicle harness side of the plug. So we need to confirm for sure what wire has power and what does not.
Below is the wiring diagram for the DS II system.
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From: Virginia
If he jumped those red and white wires together he should have power there all the time, even if he had a problem. He didn't get into detail how he jumped them though. I was hoping he left everything hooked up and jumped them somehow. If he had a problem there jumping them together should make it run all the time and he could look harder at that part of the circuit for the problem.
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hi to jump the wires i peeled back some insulation and used a jumper wire the truck started and ran aslong as key is in start position again ,as soon as i move key back to run engine dies
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the truck starts and runs beautifully until key is released to run,i have searched everywhere under the dash for a burnt or broken wire but found nothing,approximately half the fusebox has no power and gauges do not function
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Ok again see post #6 if that question is not answered we can not diagnose the issue. For all of Dave's enthusiasm when it comes to electrical diagnostics he will just have you chasing your tail.
Again confirm EXACTLY what wire has power in run using the ICM harness colours. I assume this an Econoline (E350) Cab and chassis C Class Motorhome.
Again confirm EXACTLY what wire has power in run using the ICM harness colours. I assume this an Econoline (E350) Cab and chassis C Class Motorhome.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Washington
You can also run a hot wire directly to the coil positive if you want, but based on you coil voltage reading everything seem fine with the coil voltage supply.
I don't think the ALT will come online with the key in the start position.
Be warned... the red and white wire swap... into and out of ... the DS2 power connector.
Jim
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From: Virginia
So I would leave the jumper wire in place and add a 12 hot wire directly from the battery also, which means both wires have a steady source of power. After it is running with the Key in the RUN position, you can remove one side of the jumper to see if it quits. Once you find the bad wire you start going backwards, looking for the bad connection.
You can also run a hot wire directly to the coil positive if you want, but based on you coil voltage reading everything seem fine with the coil voltage supply.
I don't think the ALT will come online with the key in the start position.
Be warned... the red and white wire swap... into and out of ... the DS2 power connector.
Jim
You can also run a hot wire directly to the coil positive if you want, but based on you coil voltage reading everything seem fine with the coil voltage supply.
I don't think the ALT will come online with the key in the start position.
Be warned... the red and white wire swap... into and out of ... the DS2 power connector.
Jim
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Running directly to the battery would eliminate the ignition switch entirely. That sounds like a good test. With all 3 points hot wired it should certainly keep running then. He could then run experiments to see which wire was the culprit and then troubleshoot that circuit.
You should try to avoid the arc and spark let the smoke method of electrical diagnostics
Seriously guys instead of just taking shots in the dark and hoping you are going to find the issue actually follow some basic diagnostic procedure.