The trip was rather uneventful after all - for the truck; I thought it was great. I bit boring through Nebraska and Iowa, whether it's just the time of year when all the cornfields are dead or they're having a drought. And Ill, Ind, Ohio are all as pretty as it gets except for springtime. The leaves are all changing colors.

It got warmer as I headed south. My rear AC works, which barely keeps it tolerable in the driver's seat but my dog is fine in the back. All new parts for the front, just need to vacuum and recharge. Truck still ran very cool with the engine fan stuck on.

So, I'm thinking the first step is to fix the wiring going to the fan, and that it's time to make a big commitment - replacing the harness. It looks like crap in many places, just loose wires were running to several sensors. I've taped some of those up, but it's still substandard. And several issues I've had point to the same spot in the harness - I've had codes for the EGR and IAT and replaced both.

Now, I have a glow plug issue too. I've been getting the code for awhile, but down it Tx it wasn't an issue. I saw it on this trip though - wasn't even freezing in Chicago, but I got smoke for 30 seconds or so after starting it each morning as that #4 cylinder struggled to warm up.

I also have a oil leak on top of the engine - drains down the back over the starter. And still have an EGR code that didn't go away.

So, anyway, because trying to just replace the fan pigtail is a PITA, with a high risk of failure if one doesn't remove enough parts to provide roomy access, I figure to go ahead and try to hunt down the oil leak by taking all the top off. May be the turbo or drain tube leaking, or the HPOP cover. Question: Does the 06 models have the upgrade to the old STC fittings, or would this be the time to look under there whether it's leaking or not?

Based on the numbers I'm seeing, I don't see a need to replace the oil cooler. Maybe an EGR delete - just eliminate that EGR code as an issue.

I can't even guess how hard it's going to be to replace that #4 glow plug. That's the Black Hole on this truck - so much on that driver's side of the engine compartment you can't see anything, and that's only after you remove the air intake/box, CAC tube, PS reservoir, and radiator hose so you can see that you can't see anything. I know my second AC compressor is down there, and the PS pump, and I think there's a vacuum pump. Of course, the steering linkage, degas bottle, brake reservoir, PCM, FICM, and GPCM are on that side too. I'm assuming the wheel and fender well have to come out.

I'm prolly being cheap - trying to save my Gold coolant just because it only has 15000 miles on it. If any of this work requires that top radiator hose to come off, so that I have to drain at least that much coolant, I'll prolly say screw it, drain it all and just tear the whole dang truck apart. Maybe replace the harness. If not, if I can selectively remove parts and just replace that pigtail, I may stay calm.

Either way, I did make some money on my trip, have my property taxes paid up now, and you won't be listening to my whining much. Just gotta get this nicely running truck fixed and back on the road asap.

 

Doesn't look like I'll be buying a new OEM wiring harness - they're more than I paid for the truck. Might take this one off and try to repair it.

 

You can get a Motorcraft wiring harness for about $500-600. It was worth it for me not having to chase electrical gremlins. I still rewrapped it with quality TESA heat tape and had to move some of the anchor points because they were in the wrong spot.

 

FordPart.com has it for $1400. Maybe I need to check the discounters. I worry as well because this is an aftermarket shuttlebus, with dual alternators and dual AC compressors, a wheelchair lift, and some electronics on the dash for high idle and operating the wheelchair lift, or something - they don't seem to do anything now but light up. But still, all that stuff has to tie into the engine's operation at various points. I already ran into this issue with the serpentine belt - the stock dual alternator belt didn't work. I don't think they have a stock dual AC option. I'd hate to tear it all down to find out I had a custom wiring harness.

But still, it might be my best option. I suppose that if I lay the old and new side by side, I'd be able to figure out what to add. I just can't emphasize enough how much bigger a PITA it is with this Eseries. Like working on your toaster through the bread slot.

Still, I was impressed by the truck on this trip, so it's worth the effort. Even with the Eseries' low HP, it's still got the torque. I actually drove that bus, pulling a 20ft empty enclosed trailer, on a suicide run up on of those steep hills in San Francisco, the ones with the Big Honking Sign that says "WARNING; NO TRUCKS UP THIS STUPID STEEP HILL." It has its limitations for sure, power-wise, but if you stay in those limits, it's a cruiser. Very roomy and comfy when parked. And, it's actually good looking, for a van. The extra height of the 450 axles give it some studliness.

 

Hey, forgot another issue...maybe. The starter sounds different at times. Some times it sounds like it's turning over kinda slowly; other times it spins fast. There's the usual variance from cold engine to hot, but I've had it spin fast first thing in the morning, and slowly. I've not noticed a pattern. Maybe I just need to charge up the batteries.

That's a good question...I've always assumed that driving a vehicle for a significant time, and then going forward, keeps the battery charged to its highest level. If so, shouldn't my batteries be maxxed out after 500 miles per day, day after day? And, I got dual alternators. Only electronics in use is the rear AC and sometimes the headlights or wipers. Oh yeah, that wheelchair lift at times, and towing lights and electric brakes. If those dual alts should be able to handle all that, then it's not the batteries making the starter turn slowly sometimes. If not, if a battery will slowly lose its charge while being driven with that much load on it, then I maybe just need to charge these after that long trip.