300 6 emissions delete
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 30
Likes: 2
300 6 emissions delete
I recently scored a 1976 F100 2 wheel drive with the 300 6. The smog pump had locked up and belt had been removed. The hose on the pump side was rusted off at the nipple , and the vacuum tube to the Carter 1 barrel carb. was unhooked. Several vacuum ports in the carb. are plugged. The rail that runs beside the rocker cover has had the port plugged with a pipe plug. After replacing the ignition module the 300 starts and runs without the smog stuff. My intention is to get rid of all of it.
My question is : After I remove the pump what do I do about the tube that is plumbed into the head ? Just cap the end? What about the piece under the carb. with the 2 diaphragms?
can that be removed and the carb. bolted down on the intake?
Any help would be welcome.
My question is : After I remove the pump what do I do about the tube that is plumbed into the head ? Just cap the end? What about the piece under the carb. with the 2 diaphragms?
can that be removed and the carb. bolted down on the intake?
Any help would be welcome.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
That piece below the carb should be your EGR, I believe, and others know more than I about that (mine fell off when I replaced the carb and intake.) Plan on a manifold vacuum line to your automatic if you have one, a manifold vacuum line to your brake booster if you have one, a ported vacuum line to your distributor (from that nipple at the base of the carb.) Then: if you have a carbon cannister and a vented tank, one line should run from the vent on top the tank to the carbon cannister (the hose off your tank sending unit is your actual gas line!) You should have a manifold vacuum line to the carbon cannister, and a port on the carbon cannister should have a line to your PCV. If no carbon cannister, a manifold vacuum line direct to your PCV. You probably have a breather on your valve cover, its hose hooks to the air cleaner body. Last but not least, if you have A/C and a coffee-can looking vacuum reservoir on the driver's inner fender, a vacuum line to it for your AC controls. If you have a manual, unassisted brakes, no A/C, no carbon cannister, and a non vented tank, you could only end up with a few hoses/vacuum lines. Plug everything you don't use.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 30
Likes: 2
Many thanks for the great info ! My truck is about as basic as you can get . 3 speed manual , no power brakes , no power steering,
Carbon canister not hooked up , Would like to tidy up by removing all the un-necessary stuff. I have plugged most of everything , and replaced the oil cap
with a vented one. The 300 seems to run just fine . If I take off what you described as the EGR , will the carb bolt down to my manifold ? Or will I need to make an adapter plate ? Thanks again !
Carbon canister not hooked up , Would like to tidy up by removing all the un-necessary stuff. I have plugged most of everything , and replaced the oil cap
with a vented one. The 300 seems to run just fine . If I take off what you described as the EGR , will the carb bolt down to my manifold ? Or will I need to make an adapter plate ? Thanks again !
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
The big lines coming from the catalytic converter/exhaust, and the head or where ever it injects to the exhaust valves, should both have check valves on their ends, in the engine compartment where the large rubber hoses lead from the pump and control valves. So if no exhaust is leaking out of them, you can leave them until you have a better idea of what to do with them.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 30
Likes: 2
meangreen92 Thanks man !
If there was some plumbing coming from the cat , someone has already removed it. I did see something coming from the front where the hose was. I guess that check valve is not closing all the way. Will have to look closely at the 6 fittings at the exhaust valves to see if they can be capped or plugged ???? If not , I will have to get creative. Thanks for the help !
If there was some plumbing coming from the cat , someone has already removed it. I did see something coming from the front where the hose was. I guess that check valve is not closing all the way. Will have to look closely at the 6 fittings at the exhaust valves to see if they can be capped or plugged ???? If not , I will have to get creative. Thanks for the help !
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
meangreen92 Thanks man !
If there was some plumbing coming from the cat , someone has already removed it. I did see something coming from the front where the hose was. I guess that check valve is not closing all the way. Will have to look closely at the 6 fittings at the exhaust valves to see if they can be capped or plugged ???? If not , I will have to get creative. Thanks for the help !
If there was some plumbing coming from the cat , someone has already removed it. I did see something coming from the front where the hose was. I guess that check valve is not closing all the way. Will have to look closely at the 6 fittings at the exhaust valves to see if they can be capped or plugged ???? If not , I will have to get creative. Thanks for the help !
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 891
From: East Central Ia
I bought some plugs like this at Ford dealer to replace the air tubes once, not sure if they would have them anymore.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
If you remove the EGR the carb sits to low and the throttle cable, other linkage if you have any and the choke heat line will not line up.
If there is no vacuum going to it it is closed so just leave it. If it is leaking, motor runs ruff, you can pull the valve and using a tin can cut to fit part of it to block it off and bolt the valve back on to hold the tin can part.
If you drive the truck when cold / damp you may also want to keep the air filter vacuum hooked up so the snorkel hot air valve works of you could have some running issues.
You may want to keep the charcoal canisters working as some say they get a gas fume smell when not hooked up.
If you have a question on something take a picture or 2 and post it so we know just what you are dealing with.
Dave ----
If there is no vacuum going to it it is closed so just leave it. If it is leaking, motor runs ruff, you can pull the valve and using a tin can cut to fit part of it to block it off and bolt the valve back on to hold the tin can part.
If you drive the truck when cold / damp you may also want to keep the air filter vacuum hooked up so the snorkel hot air valve works of you could have some running issues.
You may want to keep the charcoal canisters working as some say they get a gas fume smell when not hooked up.
If you have a question on something take a picture or 2 and post it so we know just what you are dealing with.
Dave ----
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 30
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Thanks to everyone ! You guys are awesome !
I noticed the height issue with the carb and throttle linkage . That's why I mentioned a spacer . The pic of the plug is a big help ! I appears to be straight threads most likely a 1/2-20 . I 've worked in machine shop for 41 years , the last 16 as a tool and die maker , so making a plate and those plugs is a piece of cake now that I know what I'm doing thanks to you guys !!!!!! The hoses to the charcoal canisters are all gone save one steel line that heads back under the truck . What is that all about ?
Thanks again guys !
I noticed the height issue with the carb and throttle linkage . That's why I mentioned a spacer . The pic of the plug is a big help ! I appears to be straight threads most likely a 1/2-20 . I 've worked in machine shop for 41 years , the last 16 as a tool and die maker , so making a plate and those plugs is a piece of cake now that I know what I'm doing thanks to you guys !!!!!! The hoses to the charcoal canisters are all gone save one steel line that heads back under the truck . What is that all about ?
Thanks again guys !
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