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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Dropping 6.0 back in

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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 10:20 AM
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Dropping 6.0 back in

For those who yank there motors and put it back in. Is it easier to bolt up to the tyranny or install the motor mounts? I'm doing it myself. No easy task.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 08:47 PM
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Do you mean before or after? With the tight fit on your application, I would get the tranny connection first then raise the engine up and slip in the mounts. Sound right? B.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 12:25 PM
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It’s possible to install with engine mounts on the block and still stab torque converter bolts to the flywheel.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 02:35 PM
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I haven't put mine in yet but but I bought a 3 foot long piece of threaded stock (cut into 4 pieces) to aid me in aligning things up. I'll thread pieces into engine and use them to line up then tranny! I also lifted the body and stuck 2x4s where the mounts are. 6 bolts under carpet and and 2 in the engine bay by the bumper. Just pull back seat and lift carpet. Easy peasy to get too. I left the 2 most rear ones in place and just lossened them 3/4 of thread so cab couldn't move one side or the other jacking up and lowering it back down.

 

Last edited by Corlyn Brown; Oct 18, 2020 at 02:38 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 08:04 AM
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I left the mounts on the engine block when I reinstalled my engine but I did have help.

We dropped the engine into the cradle and the tranny lined up at the same time. We did loosen the trans mount bolts and i did have a tranny jack under there as well.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
I left the mounts on the engine block when I reinstalled my engine but I did have help.

We dropped the engine into the cradle and the tranny lined up at the same time. We did loosen the trans mount bolts and i did have a tranny jack under there as well.
Yessir! I blocked my transmission in place before removing the engine and stabbed it the same way without having to move much to get TC studs to line up with the flywheel. The engine mount studs cleared the crossmember by about 1/4-1/2” so it was tight but doable.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
Yessir! I blocked my transmission in place before removing the engine and stabbed it the same way without having to move much to get TC studs to line up with the flywheel. The engine mount studs cleared the crossmember by about 1/4-1/2” so it was tight but doable.

That reminds me, set the studs so one is at the bottom on the converter and then set the flex plate so one of the holes lines up BEFORE you put the engine in. I may have had to pull mine back out and line them back up. LOL
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
That reminds me, set the studs so one is at the bottom on the converter and then set the flex plate so one of the holes lines up BEFORE you put the engine in. I may have had to pull mine back out and line them back up. LOL
No need for all that. Roll the crank with a breaker bar and socket on one of the harmonic balancer bolts. Shine a light from the front and use your 48” extension to get the nuts on.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 09:32 PM
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We just couldn't get it to line up right. Must not have had the converter seated all the way into the pump because the studs were hitting on the flex plate. Pulled it back out, aligned it and all was good.
 
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