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Can anyone please offer up any info on this Axle/Diff that I acquired recently. I'm told its from a F100.
No Tags anywhere. Numbers on the axle tube (very small, hard to see) 9 14 62 stamped horizontally, and 25, stamped vertically.
Axle tubes are about 3-00 dia, and approx 21 inches long. Diff is centered. WMS to WMS is 61-5 inches. Original 51 F1 wheels fit.
Brakes are 11 inch with 1 3\4 shoes. New shoes, brake drums clean = bonus!
Stamped on the crown wheel is 9 14 62 Dana18515 A3D21 41-11. Both wheels turn at the same time is this some kind of locker?
I marked the rear wheel and the pinion....one wheel revolution is about 3-7/5 pinion turns.
If someone could tell anything about this I'd appreciate it. Would it be ok to use for my 51F1?
I think the pinion oil seal might be blown, any trick to replace it........if its a usable unit!
Thanks for any and all information you can give me....thanks.
Geoff.
I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest the 9 14 62 is a date code. 41-11 would be the tooth count of 3.73 gears, and that seems to fit with your 3.75 turn ratio. It's been explained here on the forum previously that if a truck was ordered with a limited slip differential back in the day (commonly known as 'posi' or 'posi trac' rear end), they got a Dana 44 axle instead of the 9". That also seems to be what you have with both wheels turning the same way. It wouldn't be a "locker", that an entirely different differential setup. If the width and spring pad locations fit your truck, it may have been out of a 63 F100 originally. If so, it should be a direct bolt in and I see no reason why you couldn't make it work.
Post pictures of the axle, we can tell if it is a 41, 44, 9 inch, or something else. I agree with 52 Merc, sounds like a Dana 44, but pics would confirm.
A Dana 44 will have the numbers 44 cast into it. At least mine does in a 1956 F100. Since it has 3.73 gears, if it is a Dana 44, somebody has probably already rebuild it since that ratio was uncommon back then. That is a Dana brand ring and pinion. Since Dana still makes ring and pinion gears it's hard to determine if they are original or not. The axle tube diameter on Dana 44's is 2.75". A Ford 9" uses 3" diameter tubes.
Is it some type of limited slip? Both wheels turning at the same time, is that when rotating the pinion? Can you hold one wheel and rotate the other? If you hold the pinion then, can you rotate any of the wheels?
A picture would help. Also a picture of the carrier with the cover removed will help.
52 Merc, 38 coupe and 1956F100.
Thanks for your replies. it is a Dana 44-1, the number is cast into the case. Hopefully a couple of pics will show.
The axle tube is about 2.75inches, as stated by 1956F100, and No, holding onto the pinion neither wheel will turn.
The diff was empty of oil. No metal flakes or chips inside. The rear of the diff, and the brakes were clean, but the pinion area was oily, that suggests to me the oil seal there is blown.
Is there any trick to replacing it? Would removing the pinion nut make any change to the pre-load etc?
How does one remove the axles ? Looking through the axle breather hole I can see it looks 'cruddy' in there.
Once more, thanks for your help and information.
Geoff.
Bump to top.
1956 F100.
Any answer to my questions, please?
Thanks, geoff.
That looks to be in good shape. Somebody has rebuilt it. I might be wrong, but it looks like some type of locker differential and not a clutch type limited slip. Still posi-traction but using a mechanical arrangement instead of clutches to provide power to both wheels. It is a Dana 44 like bigwin56f100 mentioned. Mine only has the 44 cast into the center housing and not the 1 like yours. I don't know what that means.
You can change the pinion seal without affecting the pinion bearing preload. These rear axles use shims (a.k.a. a type of solid pinion bearing spacer) instead of a crush sleeve to set preload on the pinion bearings. If it was setup correctly, in theory, you can remove the pinion nut and yoke, replace the seal, then reinstall the pinion yoke and nut and torque the nut to 200 ft. lbs. of torque. To be a little safer, I would mark the nut position, count the number of exposed threads, and reinstall the nut back to the same position. It should take about 200 ft. lbs. of torque to get the nut back to the same position. Since you will be reusing the nut, which is frowned upon, put some red Loctite thread locker on the threads inside the pinion nut.
The yoke is slightly pressed onto the pinion gear. I used this tool from Ratech, p/n 18002, to both hold the yoke when removing and installing the nut and pull the pinion yoke. Summit Racing sells them and they are fairly inexpensive.
To remove the rear axles simply remove the four nuts on the brake backing plates and the axles with bearings will pull out. You can then replace the axle seals if you want to. If the axle flange gaskets, Fel-Pro p/n 10720 are bad or missing you can install new gaskets at that time. It takes four, two per side, one between the brake backing plate and axle housing, and one between the brake backing plate and axle retainer plate.
1956F100.
Thanks for the information. I'll see if my local NAPA guy (very helpful) can help me out with gaskets,
The pinion nut was hardly more than finger tight, I removed the yoke, and on inspection found that the spring had dropped out of the oil seal.
No doubt I'll be needing a new one of those, would you have any idea on the proper P/N?
I read that there is a replacement yoke that uses bigger D/S bearings, have you any idea on which yoke is for the bigger? On second thought
it probably wouldn't matter, as this truck wont be a 'racing car'.
I still cant find any reference to the 1 on the Dana 44 casting.....what does it mean?
i appreciate your helpful answers, all of them. Thanks.
Geoff
Yes there is a larger pinion yoke you can install. You'd have to double check by researching u-joint sizes. But, unless a previous owner changed it, yours should currently have the small yoke for a Spicer 1310 series u-joint. Dana makes a larger yoke that fits the larger Spicer 1330F series u-joints, p/n 246111X. It's was original on late 1960's and early 1970's Ford F100 trucks that had a Dana 44 rear axle. It is made for pinion gears with 26 splines so you need to double check that. Hopefully yours is no longer the old 10 spline pinion gear. I Installed this Dana 1330F size pinion yoke on mine. The cheapest price I found for it was at Rock Auto, a little over $40.
There are larger yokes for 1350 series u-joints. But if you find one it will probably be well over $100. Then something else will probably be the weak link in the rear axle.
Since you are replacing the seal and installing a new yoke, there is an oil slinger (shield) that goes between the yoke and the front pinion bearing. It's basically a hard sheet metal disk that helps stop oil from splashing against the seal to help reduce possible leaks.
Lastly, your pinion nut being slightly more than finger tight is odd. Could be, (1) It wasn't a good lock nut and worked loose, (2) somebody didn't get the shim stack correct to preload the bearings so the nut couldn't be tightened correctly. Hopefully it's the first. The rear axle requires disassembly to adjust the pinion bearing shim stack.
1956F100
Thanks again. I think this one has the small 1310 series yoke....I'll check.
All bearings etc, seem smooth when turning the pinion. No harshness or noises.
Hopefully, with a little attention, an oil seal, some new grease and gaskets, my $50 diff will be good to go.
I wonder if Rock Auto would have the correct oil seal, would you happen tp know the number?
Sorry for so many questions, I appreciate your help.
ps. There is an oil slinger in there, and I lightly tightened the lock nut to see if it would go on without trouble/binding.
No problem there, so I'll need to get a new oil seal first, then really tighten it......with loctite!
i just looked and the yoke seems to be the 10 spline, P/N F278118.
Geoff.
Last edited by tiger100; Oct 22, 2020 at 08:29 AM.
Reason: extra information.
Hopefully, with a little attention, an oil seal, some new grease and gaskets, my $50 diff will be good to go.
I wonder if Rock Auto would have the correct oil seal, would you happen tp know the number?
Geoff.
Go ahead and pull the old seal out. There should be a number you can match to make sure you get the right seal. I just went through a seal dilemma and until I was able to find a number on the seal, we couldn't find the right one.
Here is a source for small parts for Dana 44 axles and many other types of axles. All they carry are the small parts. Plus they provide dimensional specs on most everything. http://www.ratechmfg.com/toc.htm
52Merc, I did as you said, and pulled out seal.....no numbers! I was getting ready for a trip into town, to see the local bearing guy.
He would measure the remains of the seal, and the yoke, and find me something suitable. He's good at his job!
1956F100. Again you've come up with the 'goods'. Thanks for the links. I will be looking to 'get it together' soon and get some needed parts.
Thank you both for your answers and assistance. I really appreciate it.
Geoff.
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