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I have never done a transmission service on a C6. Its in the 72 F250 with 360. I am NOT experiencing any issues. I am doing this because I think the last time this was done on this truck was 7 years ago about a year before the P/O got sick and the truck was parked.He put on 1500 miles that year. I have put 2000 miles on it since buying it now and think the fluid should be changed..1. Is there anything I should do other than just drop the pan, and install a new filter and gasket and refill? 2. Is there a particular brand of transmission filter and gasket I should look for?..3. .how about transmission fluid what do I use? 4. How many quarts will I replace if I am only replacing what is in the pan? 5. Is there a way to drain the WHOLE transmission without taking it to someone with a flush machine? thanks everyone.
All you can drain is the pan in most cases. You will still have old oil in the converter, lines and cooler. Use FLM type fluid. I get my filters at NAPA, I would think any brand is okay. I would get at least 6 quarts of fluid just to be safe.
Hmm. Good questions.
1. Transmission takes 12 qts of Type F transmission fluid. The pan holds 6qts so you will just need 6 to drop the pan.
2. Filter is inside the pan and easy to change.
3. Pan, if original, will not say "C6". If it does, then it might be a cheap thin pan and may leak when you reinstall. If you have the original pan, look at the bolt holes when you remove it and be sure they are flat. If not flat, simply take a 4" piece of 3/8" thick metal bar and lightly flatten this flange as much as possible. Many have "volcano" holes from overtightening and it will cause leaks when you reinstall. If you need a new pan, there is only one good one I have found. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2115-oil-pan
4. Gasket is a tough call with several options, thin, thick, plastic, rubber, cork etc. Most people just use a nice felpro but I found that LubeLocker is the best. https://www.lubelocker.com/products/...ssion-llt-f0c6
5. Torque: Lubelocker gasket has exact specs to reinstall with a specific bolt pattern to follow. I use 8 foot lbs/100inch lbs of torque in two passes using a star pattern to be sure and seat it evenly.
Hmm. Good questions.
1. Transmission takes 12 qts of Type F transmission fluid. The pan holds 6qts so you will just need 6 to drop the pan.
2. Filter is inside the pan and easy to change.
3. Pan, if original, will not say "C6". If it does, then it might be a cheap thin pan and may leak when you reinstall. If you have the original pan, look at the bolt holes when you remove it and be sure they are flat. If not flat, simply take a 4" piece of 3/8" thick metal bar and lightly flatten this flange as much as possible. Many have "volcano" holes from overtightening and it will cause leaks when you reinstall. If you need a new pan, there is only one good one I have found. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2115-oil-pan
4. Gasket is a tough call with several options, thin, thick, plastic, rubber, cork etc. Most people just use a nice felpro but I found that LubeLocker is the best. https://www.lubelocker.com/products/...ssion-llt-f0c6
5. Torque: Lubelocker gasket has exact specs to reinstall with a specific bolt pattern to follow. I use 8 foot lbs/100inch lbs of torque in two passes using a star pattern to be sure and seat it evenly.
Good luck
WOW! That is the kind of info I wanted for sure!!! thank you...what is your opinion of a extended capacity pan that would be made of Aluminum? The extended pan also comes with an extended reach filter and new bolts. Do you have any experience with a Moroso gasket? I have a customer who ordered one and they sent him TWO....He's gonna give it to me for $15.00 worth of tool truck account balance which will make the gasket cost less than half of what they cost...Is there DIY way to drain the fluid from the torque converter also?
All you can drain is the pan in most cases. You will still have old oil in the converter, lines and cooler. Use FLM type fluid. I get my filters at NAPA, I would think any brand is okay. I would get at least 6 quarts of fluid just to be safe.
WOW! That is the kind of info I wanted for sured!!! thank you...what is your opinion of a extended capacity pan that would be made of Aluminum? The extended pan also comes with an extended reach filter and new bolts. Do you have any experience with a Moroso gasket? I have a customer who ordered one and they sent him TWO....He's gonna give it to me for $15.00 worth of tool truck account balance which will make the gasket cost less than half of what they cost...
Extended pan doesn't fit the crossmember most times. Double check before trying this. Aluminum is nice thou, it will stay a little bit cooler. The moroso gasket is a really thick rubber gasket that some people like. I found it was WAY too squishy (lack of better technical term) to work well because it deforms when tight. If the pan is WAY out of wack, this may work but I think the LubeLocker is more trustworthy in the long run.
Try posting a picture of your pan and see what you have going on.
If the moroso gasket that you are referring to is the thick one with the metal core...I like it very much! It stopped my pan leaks and is reuseable, without sealer. Even when straightening the bolt holes on a trans pan and gluing the gasket to the pan, I always seem to have small leaks. That gasket worked great. I agree that the deeper aluminum pan won’t clear the crossmember.
I would hate to take all that apart twice. Make sure you have no leaks at the shifter linkage. There is an o-ring and a seal on it. I got those parts from Cobra Transmission. Part #36072(d5az-7b498-a) linkage seal and #36349(c7az-7b498-a) throttle shaft o-ring. This was also easy to do while the pan is off. I didnt realize mine was leaking there and had to go back in for it on my 1970 f250.
Back in the day most Ford torque convertors had a drain plug in them. Facing forward. To access it, one would remove the lower bell housing cover. Then slowly spin the engine while looking for that plug to appear.
Definitely forgot to mention that one. When I did mine i just drilled a hole right through the pan and let it drain. I put a drain plug kit in it and called it good.
I would hate to take all that apart twice. Make sure you have no leaks at the shifter linkage. There is an o-ring and a seal on it. I got those parts from Cobra Transmission. Part #36072(d5az-7b498-a) linkage seal and #36349(c7az-7b498-a) throttle shaft o-ring. This was also easy to do while the pan is off. I didnt realize mine was leaking there and had to go back in for it on my 1970 f250.
THANK YOU!!! Do you have a PART NUMBER ETC for the DRAIN PLUG KIT you used when you added that hole to your pan???? I would like to have the ability to drain 6 quarts and refill to keep things rosy colored...without using the rose colored glasses....Looking forward to finding out the part number on that drain plug kit...
Back in the day most Ford torque convertors had a drain plug in them. Facing forward. To access it, one would remove the lower bell housing cover. Then slowly spin the engine while looking for that plug to appear.
Thank you your experience is invaluable...I enjoy reading your posts and really your answers each time I see your moniker....also it makes me crack up...
No parts #, I just found it at NAPA at the time. I said "oil drain plug kit " into the phone and they list a lots. Get one from whatever is easiest, local part store or order.
I have used the B&M kit before. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80250 Works well but none of these kits drain the complete pan because of the design.
After buying the Sonnax pan above, I welded a small 1"x1" piece of steel onto the pan and tapped a 1/2"-20 drain plug into the pan directly. This also helps with any possible interference with the shallow pan and the low hanging filter assembly.