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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 09:58 AM
  #16  
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Just a quick thought while im out playing on the truck atm. Would stuck thermostat do the same thing?? When i squeeze the upper hose despite being filled to the full mark it sounds completely empty through the tank. I know itd cause over heat issues bit never saw temps get over 230 pulling that trailer since the fan kicked up to 3krpm then with the trailer. Way back it never went over 198. But with it idling right now to warm up that hose doesnt sound like its filling.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 10:35 AM
  #17  
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I can see how it might puke at 230 degrees coolant temp (that is way too hot IMO - especially when the coolant isn't even cooling the oil). The ECT reading isn't anywhere near the hottest temperature of the coolant in the engine. The thermostat could be playing a part, but a head gasket leak can cause coolant flow issues and then produce the high temps. I suppose even a water pump could be contributing. I for one don't know how to narrow it down to the "chicken or the egg". When you have an OEM oil cooler, you can sort off narrow it down to eliminate the water pump if you are getting a good oil vs coolant temperature differential (which won't happen with poor coolant flow through the oil cooler).
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Mark has a good suggestion to check the water pump for an impeller failure. Poor flow through the heads (which was improved on the 6.4L) could leak to boiling in that region and causing the pressure.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:22 AM
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Waterpump was replaced in the spring with a bpd pump. but last time i changed the tstat was when i first got the truck in 2013. (Cant believe its been that long).

Just got back from running down the street and highway.

first 2 are from when i was empty. Temp 192-94




Only thing i had weight wise was the trailer. Hooked it up and took it for a run down the highway. Coolant temp went up a lil 196-203 was the highest i saw it get. And highway here are 70mph i was doing 75.




Trip back i romped on it a few times. Spun the duallys one of the times.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:24 AM
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From: Norlina NC
Originally Posted by bismic
I can see how it might puke at 230 degrees coolant temp (that is way too hot IMO - especially when the coolant isn't even cooling the oil). The ECT reading isn't anywhere near the hottest temperature of the coolant in the engine. The thermostat could be playing a part, but a head gasket leak can cause coolant flow issues and then produce the high temps. I suppose even a water pump could be contributing. I for one don't know how to narrow it down to the "chicken or the egg". When you have an OEM oil cooler, you can sort off narrow it down to eliminate the water pump if you are getting a good oil vs coolant temperature differential (which won't happen with poor coolant flow through the oil cooler).
Forgot to mention the 230 i saw I was running through switch backs up hill with 35 mph speed limits. (They werent fun pulling that trailer on narrow 2 way 2 lane roads)
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 11:58 AM
  #21  
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Was the close to 15 after the romps?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Was the close to 15 after the romps?
not right after. But close to them. I romped on it couple times going out. When i took the one one showing 9psi. Stopped let the pressure bleed off. Coming back i did a few more. Last romp was a couple miles before reaching the house. When i took the last pic showing close to 15
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 01:25 PM
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Over the last 2 hrs sitting there cooling off its dropped to 5 psi.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 01:37 PM
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I'm sure you are there.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tle-sound.html


 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 02:03 PM
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Check the pressure under load, install the gauge in the cabin.

Mine:

 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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I think im gonna start with changing the tstat first. I dont like the fact the upper rad hose is still empty even when ive got it up to op temp. Coolant tank had plenty left in it so there no reason it should be empty when the tanks the highest point on the vehicle.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 06:39 PM
  #27  
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ordered a compression tester so maybe i can atleast narrow down which side it is... claims to be here on the 19th...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 06:58 PM
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I’ll just say it may not be as conclusive as you hope if the leak is occurring only under normal temp with a load.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 09:15 PM
  #29  
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will find out... if anything it could tell me why cyl 4 keeps getting low contribution.... im thinking its the injector harness... but heard you need 350-400psi of compression to be able to ignite the diesel.. so may help me with that... if its showing the right compression itll tell me its the harness atleast.. 4 keeps coming up ever since i bought the truck... that injectors been changed 3 times.. so dont think its that... thinking its the harness or something with that cylinder... so ill get some info i didnt have before...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparky83
will find out... if anything it could tell me why cyl 4 keeps getting low contribution.... im thinking its the injector harness... but heard you need 350-400psi of compression to be able to ignite the diesel.. so may help me with that... if its showing the right compression itll tell me its the harness atleast.. 4 keeps coming up ever since i bought the truck... that injectors been changed 3 times.. so dont think its that... thinking its the harness or something with that cylinder... so ill get some info i didnt have before...
Cranking the engine with the starter trigger wire will tell if there's a mechanical or compression issue. It should crank steady and even. If it seems to pickup speed at a certain spot or sound funny then there's an issue. Do you have even crank? Also if you have Forscan you can do and injector buzz test to check connectivity.
 
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