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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Brakes sticking issues

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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 02:07 PM
  #1  
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Brakes sticking issues

I have started on restoring this 1982 F250 that was my grandfathers. It sat for about 7 years after the clutch was starting to slip. I was able to replace the clutch on the lift and got the truck moving again. However I am having lots of trouble with the front brakes locking up after driving for a bit. Unscrewing the bleeder screw on the caliper would free it up and allow me to drive it for short distance again. I am on the 3rd set of both front calipers so that cant be the issue? I was able to pump out the brake fluid with the flex line disconnected with no problems and the clear new brake fluid comes out. Both front flex lines are new too.

Is there something else I am missing? The only other brake parts on the truck is the brake proportional valve, master cylinder and the brake booster.

It has the single piston calipers (under 8500 gvr). 1982 F250 with 4.9L, manual transmission, RWD. 82k miles.

 
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:01 PM
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The piston in the master cylinder may not be retracting fully when you take your foot off the pedal. After the truck sat idle for so long, there may be some corrosion inside the bore.

A good pressure bleeding may be in order, too, especially if you decide to replace the master cylinder. Ordinary manual bleeding just doesn't seem to do the job on these trucks. Details here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bleeding.html

 
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:31 PM
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You sure the brake pedal is coming up all the way?
I wonder if this was another reason why it was parked? I cant see this happening unless the pedal is not retuning up all the way.

To see if it is the master take 2 thin flat washers and put them between the master & booster and go for a drive.
Now note the pedal may need to be pushed more before the brakes start to work so test in an open area first before hitting the road.
If they don't lock up you can try 2 things.

I think I would replace the master just because its been sitting so long and you now know it should be good.
There could be rust in the boar keeping the pistons from returning all the way.

The other is there is a rod between the booster & master and this could be shorten a little at a time till they dont lock up.
There is a measurement how far this should stick out of the booster but I don't have that information.
Dave ----
 
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 09:11 PM
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Or when they lock up again, instead of loosening the bleeder to release the caliper, loosen the master cylinder off the booster and see if they release.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 08:24 AM
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Just adding it's not that much money to replace the MC and brake booster. At nearly 40 years old...

Also the Motive Power Pressure bleeder is helpful in bleeding/flushing the brake system.

The three guy's have helped me recently. Good amount of knowledge here.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 08:19 PM
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Thank you all so much for responding. I went ahead and bought a new master cylinder. After following the instructions on the bench bleeding and installing it. I used the mityvac to bleed each wheels and it completely solved the problem. After cleaning one clogged bleeder screw, all wheels spins freely now. Now it is drivable and stops perfectly.

Now into the next issue I have. I think I will make a separate thread on it. It likes to stall sometimes when coming to a stop and idles rough at time. I believe the vacuum lines may be the problem. I will have pictures of it.
 
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