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I would normally not comment but you asked for opinions.... It seems to me that you will never be able to go 75 MPH across the country in a 4x4 1956 F600.... You also will not be able to modify a 1948 Ford 8N tractor to do that. Just different pieces of equipment! Good luck with it though...
New question. Can I take all the Marmon Herrington 4x4 parts and put them on my F100, since I own an original 1956 F100 with a stock v8 and 3 on the tree.
FYI, I love these trucks and would not sell, but, I am an investment manager by profession so it is always part of my decision process.
I can't find an original MH from 1956 so, this is why I wanted to convert initially.
It makes no sense to sacrifice the F-600 to modify the F-100, either mechanically or financially. It would ruin both trucks. And hoping to get one highway safe at 75 mph is unrealistic.
I’m no expert on the 1953-1956 era, but know of only one 1956 F-100 M-H (M-104). It was sold from an estate in 2017, and was itself sitting on a wrong front axle. One barrier to high M-H valuations has been limited availability of key parts. I know that Chuck now has a source for new axle half shafts, but transfer cases and other parts depends on donor trucks. We have been seeing increases in sale prices on the smaller models, even in “as found” condition, but not so on the more commonly available big trucks. Stu
New question. Can I take all the Marmon Herrington 4x4 parts and put them on my F100, since I own an original 1956 F100 with a stock v8 and 3 on the tree.
Originally Posted by F600 MH
... I do not want to lug around at 40 mph and pull stumps. I want to drive it every day and represent the new old school 15,000 miles a year. i want this to replace my 2014 Ram 2500 crew cab 6.7
Remember what you wrote, above? Your sentiments are not that different from everyone else's. It won't be stock or original. You won't be gaining anything, and it will have little to no value when done, because basically you'll have built a F600 MH, with all it's low speed, work gearing, but put all under a half ton chassis. Like Stu said, you'd be sacrificing two trucks to build something with no real usefulness or desirability, imho.
Chassis, suspension, and drivetrain engineers haven't just been sitting on their hands for 60 years. There's a reason why a '56 4x4 drives the way it does, and a 2014 4x4 truck drives the way it does.
If you want your '56 truck(of any brand, any weight, ½-ton, 2-ton etc) to drive like a 2014 truck, you're going to have to turn it into a 2014 truck.
There is a flatbed on the truck currently. Also, there is a gap area between the back of the cab and the PTO wench system.
The truck was built specifically with the boom, and the bubble on the hood (it has a mirror in the bubble to observe the boom). From what I was told, this farm was the first and only place the truck was operated from and it was special ordered from MH to use as a log cabin builder.
We have already removed the boom, brackets, and hydraulic piston...
Currently, it runs and drives pretty well. It is a stick shift and it operates. The front half shaft was removed but the original part is in the truck and I can have them put it back on and test the front drive. I'm told it all should work. Breaks are leaking but do operate. Overall there is not much it needs to get it fully operational.
As for the PTO systems, I do not know if they operate or how to operate them. But, I can get them oiled up and tested.
Please let me know if I should put money into this truck or sell it as is?
As for the PTO operation. The red **** at teh left end of the dash engages the PTO system. The truck's transmission should be in neutral. Put in the clutch and pull out the red ****. Your PTO should be engaged now. You have a lot of sticks coming through your floor board. I think the two with the round **** are for the all wheel drive. So the other three should engage the boom and the winch. I don't know what the third is for . look under the truck to see what they are connected to. Use trial and error. And ,maybe you have it figured out by now.
The two levers to the right are the MH levers. The forward lever engages AWD, and generally would have a red ****. The chrome one is the high/low range lever. In 1953 MH incorporated a shift log that allowed the engage lever to be moved to the far right and relieved guys having to work with it between their knees - like on my truck. Stu
I agree to keeping it period correct if that makes this one desireable for the next guy? As for me, I want a daily driving beast of a truck.
The issue with mating up the cummins to MH gears, transfer case would mean I would need to replace the internal and origianl guts. I would not mind doing it if it were something that can be accomplished internally and still keep the case original.
Can anyone tell me if this is possible? What do I need to do?
I agree to keeping it period correct if that makes this one desireable for the next guy? As for me, I want a daily driving beast of a truck.
The issue with mating up the cummins to MH gears, transfer case would mean I would need to replace the internal and origianl guts. I would not mind doing it if it were something that can be accomplished internally and still keep the case original.
Can anyone tell me if this is possible? What do I need to do?
You can continue asking questions but we have all answered them already. You keep asking hoping someone will say what you want to hear. So I’ll say it, sure put the diesel in and it will bolt right up and you’ll be able to do 80 mph no problem, you’ll even be able to shift on the fly once you do the diesel swap. I’m sure you’ll get at least 45 miles to the gallon and with the diesel swap, and tires will last for 250,000 miles. I’ll bet that once you do the swap, it will automatically have climate control with heated seats. The windshield will instantly convert to night vision because of the diesel swap.
Just trying to steer you in the right direction
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