This is a long shot. But hopefully someone has a answer for me. My original shock and coil spring tower rusted out completely on the front driver side. However, I found out that they do not make these anymore because it is welded and riveted to the frame. So I ordered one for a F150. They still make these because it is not welded to the frame like the E150 is. It is not perfect but very close. My problem is that I can not reuse my E150 coil spring because the new tower is about 2 inches lower. Even with the jack under the frame and allowing it to hang down, I cant get the coil spring back in like I did when I removed it. So, I measured my old coil spring and it is about 16' to 16' and a quarter inch long in the relaxed state.

Question 1 Can I compress this original coil spring 2-3 inches to make it fit and for it to be safe?

Question 2 Can I buy a new one that is only 14' long in the relaxed state and the ends are the same fit?

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you

 

Did you get one for a 4x4 or 4x2 or are they the same? Can you drill new holes and move it up? That would be easier than sourcing a spring that is shorter.

 

Hey Thanks for the reply. It was for 4x2. You cant move the tower up because it has about a 2 inch lip that bends to go under the frame. Well right or wrong, I rented a coil compress yesterday and put the original back on. I had to compress it about 3 inches to get it in. Then I took it for a 5 mile drive. It drove as good as before. Even the bumps and dips did not effect the drive. I thought maybe it would be real stiff on that side or at least something different. So all seems fine!!! However, I did notice that the steering wheel was not straight across when driving straight down the road. It was not drifting or pulling to the right at all....it was nice and straight. So I am not quite sure how the steering wheel is not straight anymore, but it drives straight??? Any ideas????

 

The steering wheel can be off because of where the steering arm is. With the front lifted up it will put the arm or linkage at a more sever angle and pull the wheel a bit. Your turning radius will have changed because one side can't go as far since it has moved. Also check your camber and toe. The ford front suspension will generally put the tires in at the road when lifted causing odd tire wear and funky road manners. Measuring from the bottom of the wheel wells to the road is there much difference front to back?

 

I am not sure....I will check tonight to see if there is a difference in height. Probably no way to get the steering wheel straight again is there? Only way I could think of is to do the same on the other side......which is a lot of work that does not seem practical. Especially when it drives straight down the road.

 

You need to change both sides. The spring rates are going to be different side to side with two different height towers. It's going to handle and drive like ****.

 

Hmnm. That would require me grinding off the other tower. Remember it is welded and not rusted like the other side was. And that was quite a feat to remove. Do they make some type of spring wedge that perhaps is used to lift vehicles? Basically the other side just needs lifted three inches.

 

You're not understanding what I told you. The spring rate is going to be different from one side to another. It's going to drive like **** and could be potentially dangerous to drive. But hey, it's your life, don't worry about the other drivers on the road with you, they don't count, huh ?

 

Not sure if you know what I told you either. Putting a 3 inch wedge in would make the spring rate the same as the other side, And your last comment was not particularly needed.

 

The rate is the same but if you have an anti sway bar you are putting each side in an opposing bind. It'll all be good until your going down the interstate at around 70 in a curve and hit a dip or bump. It could be real dangerous. I'm not sure anyone makes a 3 inch lift puck that would lift the front that much. Did you check the heights on each side? If there is a 3 inch difference that is a hell of a lot. I know it may be a pain in the butt but changing the other side mount may be your only real solution. A grinder and time will make any metal smooth eventually. I think your cheapest and easiest option will be to really dig into the specs of your springs and try to find one with the same specs load wise but 3 inches shorter. Look on Rockauto for specs on you factory spec springs. I know I said earlier that it would be tough to find the correct one but I didn't realize you weren't doing both side mounts.

 

Not needed ? Not by you, but by everyone else sharing the road with what you're attempting.

 

I think you would be better off finding a spring tower from a junk yard van and welding it onto your van so you can use the original coil spring.

There is a lot mote to this then just installing a spring of some kind.
around 3 or 4 years ago I rebuilt my front end and installed new springs. The old ones were good but they were 30 years old and I was rebuilding the front end with all new parts. The new springs were Moog springs and the correct part number recommended by their web site. Moog also makes a rubber spring insulator that goes at the bottom of the spring pad.

When we were finished with the job, my friends that helped pointed out how there was too much positive camber (the wheels pointer inwards at the bottom). I was told to drive the van and the springs would settle down. After a month nothing had settled so we went back and removed the Moog rubber spring insulators (which were damaged by the end of the spring digging into it) and that helped some but we still had too much positive camber.

A few months later I had just about ruined a new set of good year tires so we removed the new Moog springs and reinstalled the original springs that came with the van. That solved the problem with the camber and the tires have been wearing fine for the past 10K miles.

There is a whole section in my Ford service manual about alignment on these vans and how they are set up from the factory. In my case, too long of a spring caused way too much positive camber. Just adding one of the Moog rubber spring pads to one side, you could see the difference with one side tilted inwards while the other straight.

On my 88 E150 there is a "Ride Height" specification for the front and rear axles. There are tolerance specs for the right to left axle ride height. The only way to adjust the camber on the 88 twin I-beam was to bend the I-Beam, replace sagging springs, or install a spacer under the original lower spring insulator.

So any alterations to the springs will affect the camber which in turn will affect all the other specs.
As weight is lifted of of the front of the van, the front axles tilt into positive camber. As weight is applied to the front end, the wheels will eventually go into negative camber as the springs compress and the axles raise upwards. If you have two different springs, one on each side, You will probably have a tilt to the van as well as huge camber differences on each side. On top of that the differences will be more pronounced then you load or unload weight out of your van or just hit dips in the road.

I had to study my manual and understand how the twin I-Beam system is supposed to work before I could get my van lined up properly and then I had to help the guy because he was in diapers when my van came off the assembly line and he had no clue what to do.