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Hello, I have a 1950 F1 half ton pickup. It had a Speedway Mustang 2 type front clip fitted before I purchased the truck. The previous owner had a coil cut from each spring to lower the front end. Problem for me was that the ride was so hard, I purchased some stock 400lb springs and had them fitted, the ride was greatly improved. The trouble now is that when the truck is viewed from the front the wheels have a definite positive camber. Now there is adjustment available at the elongated holes on the chassis rails, but the coil springs are already very close to the outer top ball joint. Anybody else out there got the same set up ?.
What do the lower control arms look like? They should be level with the ground. I'd like to see pictures of this, as well. The spring should be a long way away from the ball joint. Are you sure the spring is seated correctly? Pictured is a Heidt's setup, and should be what you want to see.
Good morning and thanks for both your replies. I have been here before..I posted some pics a year or so ago before I installed stock springs. To clarify.. ..it is the distance between the top A arm ball joint mount and the coil spring and tower. I have attached a couple of photos I took this morning. The Speedway kit was fitted by a pro builder over here, before I purchased the truck. My set up looks way different than the Heidst photo. I should add that I am no engineer or pro mechanic.
Are these current pics? or before the spring change pics? The lower control arms are way slanted and that will never work. The lower control arms need to be level with the weight on the truck. If these are current and all the weight is on the suspension, your springs are still too stiff.
Yes these photos I took today.Yes ..if the springs were softer then the the weight of the front end would most likely make the lower arms more parallel to the ground. So if the lower arms were pushed more horizontal that would push the lower end of the wheel further out..therefor eliminating the negative camber I have at present ?
Above you said you had positive camber, but here you said you have negative camber. Which is it? But to answer the question, using lighter springs should level the lower arms and raise the upper arm to clear the hat, giving you the room for adjustment you need. This is all assuming you have the correct kit for your truck, AND it was installed correctly.
My mistake...yes I meant positive camber..{the tops of wheels protrude further than the bottoms). It would be worth trying softer springs, at the moment I have 400Lb springs .The truck stills runs the 8BA, I wonder what weight springs might do the job ?. So am I correct,, that if the lower arms were parallel to the ground, then the bottom of the wheel would be pushed out further anyway (eliminating the positive camber) ? Whether the kit is fitted correctly I do not know. Save to say the company that did the job are a respected rod builder and have probably fitted many of these kits.
You'll need to talk with a spring maker or supplier to find the correct rate spring. They'll need to know your total weight, and the weight on the front and rear axles for bias.
Where the wheel goes as the suspension moves is a matter of the geometry built into the design of the suspension. You'll need to figure out the arc of the movement of the control arms and the inclination of the spindles to determine that.
The reputation of the respected builder is questionable in my mind, as one would have thought it would have been set up correctly to begin with if they were that good.
You may be right about the company that fitted the kit, I know a coil was cut from each spring to lower the front . It was only when I fitted stock springs that the positive camber was noticed. (as it raised the front of the truck by around 3 inches. Your earlier comment ..."and that will never work". What exactly did you mean please ? The ride since the spring change is infinitely better, I just would like to eliminate the camber problem.
Like Wayne mentioned the lower control arm should be level running parallel with the cross member. It appears there is not enough weight on the springs..
What I meant was exactly what you're looking at. The geometry is all wrong. The suspension cannot work as intended all jacked around like it is. You have no way to dial in the correct wheel alignment. And just because the ride is less harsh than it was doesn't mean it's good or right, or that ride and handling won't be improved if set up properly.
OK..thank you for all your help. I know you have given me advice before. I will try getting hold of the weight information you talked of, and then sorting a pair of springs of the correct poundage. Looks like my 400's are way to high. I was hoping for other replies from members with similar setups to see what springs they are running. Thanks again Wayne.
Like Wayne mentioned the lower control arm should be level running parallel with the cross member. It appears there is not enough weight on the springs..
Thanks for your input. So as Wayne says...I need softer springs.
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