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Pull a lifter and check it, use a strait edge (preferably small machinists square) and check to make it still has some covex on the mating surface to the cam. If the lifter is flat or concave it's worn out. And if one lifter is worn out, then they all are.
You can replace lifers and not the cam provided the cam still has angle left on the lobes, the lobe surfaces are not ground parallel to the centerline of the cam but ground on a slight angle to it to promote rotation of the lifter. If the peak of the lobe is worn all the way across, the cam is beyond putting new lifters on it. Replace the cam and lifters.
If you replace just the lifters you have to treat it like a new cam and do a proper cam break-in. That means break-in oil and a 20 min run in at 2500rpm.
Really it is just easier to replace the cam and lifters together. This also gives you the opportunity to replace the timing chain and front seal, since this an FE it is a pretty straight forward and easy job to get at the timing chain and in turn the cam..
Pull a lifter and check it, use a strait edge (preferably small machinists square) and check to make it still has some covex on the mating surface to the cam. If the lifter is flat or concave it's worn out. And if one lifter is worn out, then they all are.
You can replace lifers and not the cam provided the cam still has angle left on the lobes, the lobe surfaces are not ground parallel to the centerline of the cam but ground on a slight angle to it to promote rotation of the lifter. If the peak of the lobe is worn all the way across, the cam is beyond putting new lifters on it. Replace the cam and lifters.
If you replace just the lifters you have to treat it like a new cam and do a proper cam break-in. That means break-in oil and a 20 min run in at 2500rpm.
Really it is just easier to replace the cam and lifters together. This also gives you the opportunity to replace the timing chain and front seal, since this an FE it is a pretty straight forward and easy job to get at the timing chain and in turn the cam..
Great info! - I pulled all lifters and shining a flashlight behind a steel ruler clearly shows some concave profile, very small I would say no more than 1/2 mil. I also pulled out the timing chain cover and found lots of play on the chain. The truck appears unmolested. I've found FoMoCo stamped seals and gaskets. The cam sprocket is actually plastic and had a broken dent, so the timing was perfect and already replacing it. Both sprockets had their index marks pointing up, I was expecting facing each-other as some youtube videos suggest.
I would love to change the cam and lifters but I'm not comfortable with that as I don't know the head's air flow specs to select a cam and don't know what are the cam's OE specs to find a replacement. Its not my daily so I think that the way the lifters are I can probably get 10K miles before I need to rebuild the engine which means 1 - 2 years and I'm probably good with that.
If you happen to know the OE cam specs I'll be interested.
The second picture shows the results with Chem-Dip a lot easier and more effective than gasoline and Seafoam engine treatment solutions.
Great info! - I pulled all lifters and shining a flashlight behind a steel ruler clearly shows some concave profile, very small I would say no more than 1/2 mil. I also pulled out the timing chain cover and found lots of play on the chain. The truck appears unmolested. I've found FoMoCo stamped seals and gaskets. The cam sprocket is actually plastic and had a broken dent, so the timing was perfect and already replacing it. Both sprockets had their index marks pointing up, I was expecting facing each-other as some youtube videos suggest.
I would love to change the cam and lifters but I'm not comfortable with that as I don't know the head's air flow specs to select a cam and don't know what are the cam's OE specs to find a replacement. Its not my daily so I think that the way the lifters are I can probably get 10K miles before I need to rebuild the engine which means 1 - 2 years and I'm probably good with that.
If you happen to know the OE cam specs I'll be interested.
The second picture shows the results with Chem-Dip a lot easier and more effective than gasoline and Seafoam engine treatment solutions.
Thanks
With lifters that worn the cam will be beyond the point of putting new lifters in. You have no choice but to do the cam and lifters. Just throw an RV grind cam at it, and you will be fine.
I agree a rv or any mild cam. The heads will be fine with it.
You might think about refreshing heads while you've got it down. Resurface guides seals yadda yada find a machine shop with a older guy running it hell fix your heads right up.
Those lifters are shot. which means your cam is shot . which basically means you need a rebuild.
But you're probably right it should hold together a while longer. if you're not going to fix it right why waste money on parts you're going to be pulling back out before long would be my thought.
I agree a rv or any mild cam. The heads will be fine with it.
You might think about refreshing heads while you've got it down. Resurface guides seals yadda yada find a machine shop with a older guy running it hell fix your heads right up.
I agree with everybody! I headed this afternoon to my machine shop. Autosport in Ballard, very knowledgeable guy with lots of experience on FE's. He's going to get me some options for an RV cam and lifters. I'm also planning on taking the heads over for a refresh. I might end up putting some headers, and that's it. Feel free to share your thoughts on a good and cheap set of headers.
It has been a great process with lots of great advice that I appreciate.
Honestly at 125k miles on the engine, I wouldn't bother having the heads done and replacing the cam. Either do the total rebuild now or put it back together and run it like it is until at which time you are prepared for the full rebuild.
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