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Steve, The '52 and earlier clutch linkage is totally different that the '56. here is a photo of mine.
The arm that is upright is connected to the pedal by an adjustable rod.
Thanks, Mark
Thanks for clarifying that. Starting to think it's probably the fork. Let us know what you find.
That sounds like a very interesting project! Would love to see photos.
Mark
The Mercedes conversion from automatic to manual transmission was first in line to be a project when the F100 exposed her cracked frame and absorbed all my attention. So, at the moment it is a stock US-spec 350SL with a complete set of Mercedes German-spec 4-speed transmission, clutch, and pedal parts sitting next to it. Not really photo worthy.
Since only a handful of cars were imported with manual transmissions, and that only in the first production year, stick shift parts are quite hard to find in the US. I wound up buying the transmission and clutch items from an auto recycler in Germany. I found the last missing item about 9 months ago.
Apparently a few 240D cars on the 123 chassis were imported with 4 speed transmissions also. They are very hard to find, but popular with the 300D owners to convert to a standard transmission, as 300D cars were only available in Germany with a 4 speed. I made an adapter to mount a Ford 460 flywheel on my Mercedes diesel and had the Ford flywheel match balanced to the Mercedes flywheel.
Mark
Well, I found the problem. Looking down thru the inspection ho;e in the top of the bellhousing, I can see that two of the pressure plate fingers are almost touching the throwout bearing as they should be. The third finger is about 1/2-3/4" away from the face of the bearing. I can't tell if it is broken or what the problem is. I guess I will be pulling the transmission.
Thanks, Mark
That sucks. Any chance the PP is under warranty? I'd recommend you have Ft Wayne Clutch rebuild it, if you can stand the wait (or buy outright a rebuilt from them). https://fortwayneclutch.com/
And maybe ask them about a diaphragm style cover if it comes to that. They just engage so much smoother. I have an 11-inch unit on my '56. Really strong.
That sucks. Any chance the PP is under warranty? I'd recommend you have Ft Wayne Clutch rebuild it, if you can stand the wait (or buy outright a rebuilt from them). https://fortwayneclutch.com/
I don't know about a warranty, I have had the clutch about 3 years. It probably has less than 750 miles on it though. I will call them when I get it out. I used to do a lot of business with them when I had my shop open. Thanks for the link to Ft Wayne Clutch, I may check with them.
Thanks, Mark
And maybe ask them about a diaphragm style cover if it comes to that. They just engage so much smoother. I have an 11-inch unit on my '56. Really strong.
I pulled the transmission so that I could access the clutch. The T98 is too long to come out thru the hole in the floor without removing the parking brake band and drum from the transmission. Then it will just barely come out thru the hole. I found the problem with the pressure plate. One of the stirrups that fasten the finger to the cover of the pressure plate split thru the pin hole for the finger pivot pin.
It is split on both sides of the finger, but opened up the most on the cotter pin side. I found the invoice from the rebuilder, I had the clutch and pressure plate rebuilt in 2015. I called them and the service rep that I normally deal with said I could bring it in and they would replace it or I could rob one from another pressure plate and repair it myself. I talked like that piece is not available new, so they would replace it with a good used one also. I may try to fix it myself as they are a little over 100 miles away.
Thanks, Mark
Hi, Ross. I did some measuring here too and found out all the stirrups are the same from a 9" clutch to an 11". I went out back in my parts stash and found a couple of pressure plates to pull apart. The 9" PP was the best looking inside. so I pulled it apart. I cleaned up one of the stirrups and installed it. Here is a couple of photos of my broken one with a 9" stirrup.
I don't know if the broken one is stretched thinner at the top or if it is thinner. I may check the other two before I install the clutch. If the other two are as thin as the one that broke, I could be back in it again if I don't change them all. Thank you so much for your help.
Mark
I replaced one more of the stirrups in the pressure plate today. It was thinner at the top, like the one that broke, than the stirrups I removed from another pressure plate. The third one was the same thickness as the other two replacements, so I reinstalled it. Now I can begin putting everything back together. I will address a couple of oil leaks on the 4 speed first though. The counter shaft and reverse shafts are both seeping oil and I will use some silicone on them and on the pto gasket when I reinstall it as it was leaking also. I absolutely hate silicone, but there are uses for it if used sparingly.
Thanks for all the replies, Mark
You probably already know they make a silicone that's specifically for gear oil. You can maybe use aviation permatex instead? Glad you got it sorted out.
Be sure to check the finger heights after assembly. Not easy to do, you need to check it with the PP springs partially compressed. Are your fingers the kind with adjustment nuts on the ends? or just flat faced?
You probably already know they make a silicone that's specifically for gear oil. You can maybe use aviation permatex instead? Glad you got it sorted out.
Thanks Scott, I wasn't aware that there was specific silicone for for gear oil. I will get some for reassembly. I did use Aviation Permatex and have always had good luck with it, but the pto on the 4 speed and both pto covers on the Brownie are leaking.
Thanks again, Mark
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