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So, has anyone had to evacuate their HVAC system using a vacum pump. What are the steps necessary to drain it? Which port does the vacum pump get hooked up to? Looking for a few tips as I have never done it before yet still researching it. I want to change the Condenser,Orifice Tube, and the Dryer (accumulator). Any tips would be helpful. It's a 2002 F 250 XLT Crew Cab too.....210K
It will be far cheaper to hire it done than to buy the equipment needed for one job.
at a minimum you will need a reclaimer, reclaim tank, vacuum pump, nitrogen regulators, manifold gauges, micron gauge.
I forgot the EPA universal certification. Refrigerant disposal is tightly regulated.
did not mean to scare you off, maybe your system is flat empty and you can skip the reclaimer. (Don’t vent the Freon, the fine starts at $10,000.00. And the person that reports you gets a big chunk.
We have a machine at work that does it all. Hook it up, program it, and it will do everything. You need to at least know the basics to use one and have the certification. The machine runs about 3500 to start, maybe you could have a small garage do it for you for a small fee. If it does not leak, they work well for years. This is for R134 only, which most trucks on the road today are.
So, has anyone had to evacuate their HVAC system using a vacuum pump. What are the steps necessary to drain it? Which port does the vacuum pump get hooked up to? Looking for a few tips as I have never done it before yet still researching it. I want to change the Condenser, Orifice Tube, and the Dryer (accumulator). Any tips would be helpful. It's a 2002 F 250 XLT Crew Cab too.....210K
You need a manifold gauge set and with that one hose connects to the low side, one to the high side, and the third first to the vacuum pump to evacuate the system down to 30, then to the cans to fill the system. Connect it all, turn on the vacuum pump, open both the low and high side manifold valves, wait about 10 minutes, close the two valves, turn the pump off then leave it all alone for 10-15 minutes to see if the low side gauge needle moves which would indicate a leak. If there are no leaks remove the hose from the vacuum and connect it to the can, open ONLY THE LOW SIDE during filling, NEVER the high side.
It will be far cheaper to hire it done than to buy the equipment needed for one job.
at a minimum you will need a reclaimer, reclaim tank, vacuum pump, nitrogen regulators, manifold gauges, micron gauge.
No friggin' way, most shops charge at least $600 to do this type of work! Buy the tools and do it yourself. Even if he breaks even he will own all of the equipment for the next go around, or possibly for a family member or friend's vehicle.
No friggin' way, most shops charge at least $600 to do this type of work! Buy the tools and do it yourself. Even if he breaks even he will own all of the equipment for the next go around, or possibly for a family member or friend's vehicle.
Agreed I purchased a pump and gauges years ago. Of course my neighbors hit me up to fill a leaking system more than I use them on my own vehicles.
Can't speak of the quality of this kit but it has everything you would need to pull a vacuum and refill a system for under $100 minus the refrigerant and can piercer.
Agreed I purchased a pump and gauges years ago. Of course my neighbors hit me up to fill a leaking system more than I use them on my own vehicles.
Can't speak of the quality of this kit but it has everything you would need to pull a vacuum and refill a system for under $100 minus the refrigerant and can piercer. https://www.amazon.com/F2C-3-5CFM-Va...dp/B01AAB2YCU/
well even if that kit works once its cheaper than paying people like me the real money to fix your system
and really using gauges to diagnose systems is a no brainer
well even if that kit works once its cheaper than paying people like me the real money to fix your system
and really using gauges to diagnose systems is a no brainer
For a family member I even used my automotive AC equipment to recharge a 4-zone home mini-split system for $20 in R410-A refrigerant. The contractor wanted $800 just to charge they system and another $3K to find the leak. I bought a leak detector off Amazon for $35 and found the leak in under 10 minutes, then fixed within another 10.
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