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Is this 12V conversion kit missing something?

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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 07:14 PM
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Is this 12V conversion kit missing something?

I know this has beatin to death but I’m in the process of doing the 6-12VDC conversion, after doing a lot of reading I’m still not confident in this conversion. I’m looking at this kit https://www.vintageautogarage.com/19...p/pgf4953k.htm


im assuming this is a 1 wire alternator, couple things I’m confused with. I don’t see how the voltage would be cut to the battery to prevent over charge. Once I get into the project I’ll post back because I’m also not sure about the 12 to 6V gauge reducer.

Whats you’re guys thoughts on this kit, seems expensive.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 11:12 PM
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That says it is for 49-53 flatheads, which I would interpret to mean it is for Cars, not trucks. The alternator mounting position is about 1/2" different between the two, so I would clarify with them if it is for Trucks.

That is a complete changeover kit, with electronic ignition and a bunch of other stuff. They also sell just the alternator kit for almost $300 less.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 11:33 PM
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This is what I did. Hope it helps.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-numbers.html
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 01:15 AM
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Nice kit, but a lot of unnecessary stuff, imho. You could do a complete conversion for under $300 (including light bulbs).
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotty's 52 F3

Scott,

I read through your install and it seems the most logical to me, Your explanation gives me confidence.

I found that same 12v gen for $138 on eBay, I wanted to get away with not having another brushed gen but I can’t see the brushes wearing that quickly.

Im still confused how the kit I linked above would cut voltage to the battery to prevent over charge.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott M-47
Scott,

I read through your install and it seems the most logical to me, Your explanation gives me confidence.

I found that same 12v gen for $138 on eBay, I wanted to get away with not having another brushed gen but I can’t see the brushes wearing that quickly.

Im still confused how the kit I linked above would cut voltage to the battery to prevent over charge.
The one-wire alternator has an internal voltage regulator.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods
The one-wire alternator has an internal voltage regulator.
Which maintains proper regulated 12VDC, this also monitors charge current to battery?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 08:29 AM
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Yes, it does.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 11:46 AM
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I have an externally regulated Ford alternator I thought about using instead of the generator. I bought a wide belt pulley for it. I would still be able to keep the wiring pretty much the same. I have a solid state regulator that would just bolt in place of the old style. I like the look of the Ford or MOPAR alternators better than the GM. Anyway, that was my backup plan.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 11:55 AM
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Unless you just have to have an alternator that looks like a generator, there's no point in spending $400+ on that unit when a standard alternator can be had for less than $100 and work perfectly fine. My 2c.

Personally, I don't see the big deal of a 1 wire alternator. Is running an additional wire or two actually a deal breaker? They can all be bundled together nice and tidy to keep the engine compartment just as clean.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
....Personally, I don't see the big deal of a 1 wire alternator. Is running an additional wire or two actually a deal breaker? They can all be bundled together nice and tidy to keep the engine compartment just as clean.
An internally-regulated GM alternator that is not a 1-wire needs a light in the Field circuit. Some people don't want to have to drill their dash for that. As many questions as I see on "how to wire my 1-wire", I think a lot of people find the extra wiring too much of a challenge. And if 1-wires work, why not simplify?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott M-47
I'm still confused how the kit I linked above would cut voltage to the battery to prevent over charge.
You will need to have a 12 volt battery.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
An internally-regulated GM alternator that is not a 1-wire needs a light in the Field circuit. Some people don't want to have to drill their dash for that. As many questions as I see on "how to wire my 1-wire", I think a lot of people find the extra wiring too much of a challenge. And if 1-wires work, why not simplify?
Thanks, Ross. I was thinking there are compromises necessary when going from 3 to 1 wires from the alternator. The loss of a warning lamp was one, but I suppose that only applies or matters to applications that use a gen or alt lamp in the dash. Without going back through a bunch of reading, I don't recall off the top of my head anymore what else one loses. So yes, I would agree, whatever works, great. I guess my point was it seems like everyone feels the need to switch out whatever they have and go with a GM one wire alternator, and that may not necessarily be the best option, depending on the application.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 03:55 PM
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The indicator light is not absolutely necessary as long as you have other means of monitoring the charging rate such as a voltmeter or ammeter. I really don't see why this is a challenge.



 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 05:28 PM
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3-wire alternators require a resistance in the Field wire in order to trigger the regulator to start charging. The light bulb provides that.
 
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